No power plus fuel gauge problem
No power plus fuel gauge problem
Well first we’ll start with the fact that the car seems to not have the power it should. Oh and by the way this is a 64 cutlass 330 motor.
The motor has been completely rebuilt to stock except for I put a stock 442 cam in it. The motor was a 290hp to start with. It has an original
carb so i thought it would be good enough to run the way it should. (Maybe I’m wrong) it has pertronix ignition in the old distributor with vacuum
advance. It has Thornton exhaust true duals and a 4 speed. Rear end could be a problem but I can’t find what ratio it is and it’s a 12 bolt.
Also the fuel gauge isn’t working properly. I put different ground on not much change. If I take off wire from gauge to sending unit it goes to full,
otherwise it won’t go bearly above a 1/4 tank.
Any help would be great.
Thanks Brad
The motor has been completely rebuilt to stock except for I put a stock 442 cam in it. The motor was a 290hp to start with. It has an original
carb so i thought it would be good enough to run the way it should. (Maybe I’m wrong) it has pertronix ignition in the old distributor with vacuum
advance. It has Thornton exhaust true duals and a 4 speed. Rear end could be a problem but I can’t find what ratio it is and it’s a 12 bolt.
Also the fuel gauge isn’t working properly. I put different ground on not much change. If I take off wire from gauge to sending unit it goes to full,
otherwise it won’t go bearly above a 1/4 tank.
Any help would be great.
Thanks Brad
Brad,
Disconnect the fuel gauge wire at the tank sender, the gauge should go past F. Ground the same wire and it should go to E. If these two steps work the sending unit in the tank needs to be cleaned/freed up but more likely replaced. Once the sending unit is out you can wire it back up move the float and watch the gauge. If the gauge doesn't go from F to E there is a problem with the gauge or the wiring from the tank to the gauge.
Good luck!!!
Disconnect the fuel gauge wire at the tank sender, the gauge should go past F. Ground the same wire and it should go to E. If these two steps work the sending unit in the tank needs to be cleaned/freed up but more likely replaced. Once the sending unit is out you can wire it back up move the float and watch the gauge. If the gauge doesn't go from F to E there is a problem with the gauge or the wiring from the tank to the gauge.
Good luck!!!
Does the gauge to to EMPTY when you ground the sending unit wire? If so, that should verify the gauge is OK and the issue is at the sending unit.
Also may need some additional information to help with diagnosing the engine power:
What camshaft profile was used?
Was the camshaft degreed when installed?
What is the true compression ratio (not what you suspect it is, but what it actually measured).
What is the ignition initial advance set to, and what is the total mechanical advance?
Also may need some additional information to help with diagnosing the engine power:
What camshaft profile was used?
Was the camshaft degreed when installed?
What is the true compression ratio (not what you suspect it is, but what it actually measured).
What is the ignition initial advance set to, and what is the total mechanical advance?
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