Very grateful for the site as it has been helping me tremendously. have a 72 cutlass convertible 350, edlebrock manifold and 4 barrel carb. Looking to replace the water pump and read on here that MAW replace the timing chain. I looked on here but didn't see any posts on how to change it. I have the Service Manual but was hoping someone did it on here and posted step by step pics? Any pointers would be appreciated. Also I see there are several different kinds, can someone please recommend which one get? Thanks

 

I like the Cloyes timing sets. You will need to pull harmonic balancer and make loose the front oil pan bolts to get the timing cover off. There is a front timing cover lower rubber seal which actually seals the front of the oil pan. the design though is to put the oil pan on last. If you use RTV on the rubber seal it will mostly just get pushed off when trying to reinstall timing cover unless the front of the oil pan has dropped and is pretty loose.

 

I didn't do a step by step, but if you have the manual that's all I used.

My chain slipped and the overwhelming concensus was to get the plastic t chain parts out of the oil pump pick up. My engine and related parts are all 40 plus years old so I pulled the engine and repaired replaced and regasketed, all told it was only $300 or so and I'm glad I did it

Here's my thread

http://https://classicoldsmobile.com...died-ride.html

 

Thanks guys. I actually need to replace my oil pan gasket so I'll plan on doing this all at once. I don't have the ability to pull the engine but(dare I ask) what other MAW's should I try and tackle while I'm changing the water pump/timing chain/oil pan gasket?

 

MAW replace the front crank seal in the timing cover also.

 

I might add that beware of the two smaller bolts in the water pump that screw into the timing cover. They can be easily stripped. IF that happens not too terrible to repair.

When you said "several different kinds" are you referring to water pumps? If that's the case, simply compare it to the new one carefully before you leave the auto parts store.

 

Supplies:
Cloyes 9-3113 (or 9-1113 if mild street / on budget) timing chain set
FelPro TCS45270 gasket set (has timing cover seal)
Gear puller for crank gear
Juices/cleaners...

MAWs ?
Check crank snout for wear @ timing cover seal - sleeve if bad
Water pump = easy since you'll aready have it off.Be sure to get correct replacement (take old to store)
Oil pan gasket = tough w/ engine in car

 

Gentlemen, what is a MAW?

 

Might As Well... (while you're in there..!)

 

Great, thanks for all the input.

 

You might check Rock Auto for the parts you need. I have found them to be about the lowest prices on Brand Name parts.

 

+2

i sourced my stuff from rock auto and got most of it made in USA or canada, fel pro, good year, gates, cloyes. One of the nice things about RA is the ability to choose from cheaper stuff or better made (hopefully) bigger name stuff

 

Thank you Indy_68_S!

 

rock auto has god prices but the shipping when done comes out to the same as your local auto parts store

 

Question regarding the Timing cover on a Olds 350.

Sometime in the future I will be replacing my original nylon coated timing gear.
I had a problem 2 years ago when I replaced my water pump.
4 of the 8 bolts that hold the water pump are self-tapping screws that screw into the Timing cover.
The torque rating of theses screws is approximately 12-14 pounds.
If you crank the self-tapping too tight they strip.
Too loose and you will blow out the water pump gasket, which is what I did.
Has anyone tried to replace the 4 Timing cover /water pump self-tapping screws with Nut/bolt combinations?
Is it possible to weld on 4 nuts to the inside of the Timing cover to replace the weak self-tapping screws?
Is there enough clearance inside the timing chain area to support 4 nuts welded to the back of the timing cover for a Rocket 350?

Thanks, Miles

 

it might of been inch lbs not foot lbs

 

Here is a page from the 72 CS manual.
Its hard to read, but it seems to indicate, the timing cover bolts that go into the block directly can be torqued to 25 ft. lb.
There should be 4 of the block bolts.
The self taping (self stripping) bolts are torqued to 13 ft. lb. and there are 4 of those.
Two at the top and two at the bottom.
The bottom ones are the ones that are usually associated with a blown water pump gasket.
I have tried both the Thin and Wide Felpro waster pump gaskets.
The Thin one blew out in 300 miles.
The Wider one for high volume water pumps is still running after 3k miles.
My water pump gasket failure was most likely caused by a combination of using the low volume gasket and poor Torqueing.
The Thin Felpro gasket came with the High volume water pump.

The 2 self tapping bolts at the top of the Water Pump are less likely to sufferer a gasket failure because they are closer to the Block bolts.
The bottom two self tapping bolts are further away from the Block bolts which makes them a little more likely to suffer a gasket failure if the
torqueing it not correct.