New Guy Here From SD
#1
New Guy Here From SD
hey, new guy here. im 15 and i have an 1987 Cutlass. not really classic. but anyway i hope i have a good stay and learn alot while here.
here are some pictures of my car.
this is the second day i had it.
C3.jpg
then i found some old parts, including an 85 nose. i like them better than 87.
C4.jpg
this is how faced the paint was. but i managed to keep it on there for now. this coming spring i plan on a new paintjob.
Quarterpanel.jpg
finally got the front end painted and got the paint lookin good. it still has the stock wheels and tires tho.
Purty_03.jpg
i finally got some new (old used) rims and brand spankin new BFG's. this is what the car looks like now.
Bam.jpg
here are some pictures of my car.
this is the second day i had it.
C3.jpg
then i found some old parts, including an 85 nose. i like them better than 87.
C4.jpg
this is how faced the paint was. but i managed to keep it on there for now. this coming spring i plan on a new paintjob.
Quarterpanel.jpg
finally got the front end painted and got the paint lookin good. it still has the stock wheels and tires tho.
Purty_03.jpg
i finally got some new (old used) rims and brand spankin new BFG's. this is what the car looks like now.
Bam.jpg
#7
thanks guys and yes it does kill to have an olds. i already got my liscence pulled once and got me a $105 ticket... exhibition driving lol. i will be putting a new motor in it this spring along with getting a new paintjob hopefully.
#8
#13
thanks guys. now maybe all you can help me on getting a motor put in this bad girl! i wanna do a chevy 350 bored .060" and put 10.2:1 speed pro pistons in it. i already have some heads for it that have been decked, machined to accept 2.02" and 1.60" valves, and ported a little bit. then i am gonna use a Comp Cams XE262 cam with a Edlebrock Air Gap manifold and Holley 750cfm carb. then use Flowtech Afterburner Headers. does this sound like a good combo.
#15
#16
sorry guys, i have to go Chevy cause its what i know how to work on and i already have a bunch of stuff and remember, i am 15 and am on the smallest budget possible. i would love to slap in a big 455olds but i cant find one that is in my price range and close to me.
#19
http://www.oldspower.com/vb/showthread.php?t=43942
It's the best I can do with 15 seconds of shopping
It's the best I can do with 15 seconds of shopping
Last edited by Jamesbo; November 17th, 2008 at 01:16 PM.
#21
Be honest with ya, bo- if the car came with a Chevrolet engine, build a Chevy for it. You just won't get much technical or moral support here.
If it came with a 307 Olds, save yourself a lot of headache and fabrication. Sell the Chevy engine and find an Olds 350 or 403. It will DROP in like it was meant to be there, without all the mounts, brackets and wiring hassles of trying to put the SBC in it. It will also be as reliable, make more torque, and be only marginally more expensive to build though your intake/cam choices are a little more limited.
If it came with a 307 Olds, save yourself a lot of headache and fabrication. Sell the Chevy engine and find an Olds 350 or 403. It will DROP in like it was meant to be there, without all the mounts, brackets and wiring hassles of trying to put the SBC in it. It will also be as reliable, make more torque, and be only marginally more expensive to build though your intake/cam choices are a little more limited.
#22
I'm with rocket raider on this one. If the car came with an Olds, which I'm fairly sure it did, you will be money and time ahead with an Olds engine, especially if you are on a tight budget. I am guessing that someone here would have a 350 they would sell you for a reasonable price needing only minor freshening. a 350 is fairly common, and will produce pleanty of power to push that pup down the road. You can learn a litt bit about your ride, save some money and go ape nuts on a big block when you have more money. I would pm J or 2blue442, Ithink both have at least one for sale, but may be wrong. I know they are out there, I'm just not in the market right now, so am not sure who has them.
#23
http://www.oldspower.com/vb/showthread.php?t=43942
It's the best I can do with 15 seconds of shopping
It's the best I can do with 15 seconds of shopping
#26
#27
Chebby-!!!!-the lads here will have you burnt at the stake !!! Take your time there will be heaps o 350 olds engines come up -In fact someone here will probably be able to supply you one at a reasonable cost AND there is advice here to rebuild one .
BTW nice car
BTW nice car
#28
Ok guys, I should have known better than to ask about Chevy engines on here. BUT, I definately took into consideration what you guys said, and today i got really into searching for Oldsmobile engines. I found a 403 and a 350. Im not sure which one to go with. The 350 costs $350 and the 403 costs $300. I have read that the 403 has less power but higher torque due to the low compression because of the huge 83cc heads. I know you can throw a set of 350 heads on there from 1972 and it could up the horses to about 300 with an intake and carb. That is where i get kinda scared and stuff of how much it is going to cost in the end. Now, on the other hand, the 350 looks like an out-of-the-box all around good motor already. i was thinkin of getting that, throwin new cam, lifters, timing chain, intake, and some headers on her. which one do you guys prefer?
#29
Personally I would go with the 350. It's a solid engine and will run strong when taken care of. If after you get a little older and you have more money you can find a 455 to build while you are still driving the car. Just my two cents.
Oh yea, if you want to keep the car nice....don't EVER get married cause a woman will suck the life out of you and the car! :-)
Keith
Oh yea, if you want to keep the car nice....don't EVER get married cause a woman will suck the life out of you and the car! :-)
Keith
#30
Personally I would go with the 350. It's a solid engine and will run strong when taken care of. If after you get a little older and you have more money you can find a 455 to build while you are still driving the car. Just my two cents.
Oh yea, if you want to keep the car nice....don't EVER get married cause a woman will suck the life out of you and the car! :-)
Keith
Oh yea, if you want to keep the car nice....don't EVER get married cause a woman will suck the life out of you and the car! :-)
Keith
#31
Will a 455 also fit in there just as easy as a 403 and 350? And, if i put a intake, headers, cam, chain, and lifters in would it make more power if everything else is stock?
I am also considering gas mileage because this car is driven everyday! The only time it will sit for a while this year, is during the winter. (I drove it all last winter and it took its little toll on it)
Lastly, what cam kit, intake, and headers would you guys suggest? I am intending this car to drive everyday with low end power, but still be able to take it to the strip and put down some descent streetcar numbers.
Thanks alot guys!
I am also considering gas mileage because this car is driven everyday! The only time it will sit for a while this year, is during the winter. (I drove it all last winter and it took its little toll on it)
Lastly, what cam kit, intake, and headers would you guys suggest? I am intending this car to drive everyday with low end power, but still be able to take it to the strip and put down some descent streetcar numbers.
Thanks alot guys!
#34
I'm with him...Were up to 4 cents now.
#35
Come on guys he's only 15 give him a break. Jonny the parts you listed for the Chevy 350 will work out great. Put it in, blow off a few doors and when you get older and richer put a 455 in it. And like the guys said DON"T get married unless you are ready to give up the cars.
#36
what i asked was... what intake and cam would work good? I was looking at a Lunati cam kit and i am totally lost on the intake cause i am used to building 350 chevy motors and i just RPM Airgaps on them. I cannot find any airgap for this motor. I wold like to have a high rise intake but if i cant have one i guess i will go with a performer if i can find a descently priced used one. So, can i get someone to help me find a highrise or someother performance intake?
OR, should i go the cost effective way and port the heads and intake to open everything up but still be stock?
OR, should i go the cost effective way and port the heads and intake to open everything up but still be stock?
#37
Let's look at your total build here. What transmission and what gears do you have, since those influence cam/intake selection.
Up front, I tend to be a little conservative with a street driven car esp if fuel mileage is a concern.
You've already found you're limited in new SBO intake choices, unless you decide to go oldschool and dig around swap meets for some of the old stuff. Unfortunately aftermarket performance companies think SBC and SBF are the only engines made.
A Performer RPM is a good all-around street intake and can use a QuadraJet, which I think is overall a better choice than the Edelbrock AFB. Holleys are easier to find stuff for, but I've found it's always a compromise with a Holley. You can work a non-electronic QJ and have a real screamer, and as long as you don't get silly on the primary side it will still deliver reasonable gas mileage.
You can always put a good phenolic carb spacer on, blend it to the intake, and add high-rise effect that way though it tends to alter the Oldsmobile's torque curve up.
Cam? I'd go somewhere in the .480-.490 lift range, 275-285 duration depending on torque converter and gears. Use 1.6:1 (or even 1.7 if your piston dishes will stand it)ratio rockers to get a little bit more lift, and a good three-angle valve cut makes an Oldsmobile happy. You can do a little port-polish-blend work on the heads if you like. At the very least I'd get rid of the exhaust port EGR bumps.
Use an HEI distributor curved to get about 36 degrees total vacuum + mechanical advance. I would not lock the advance mechanism on a street driven Olds engine.
Up front, I tend to be a little conservative with a street driven car esp if fuel mileage is a concern.
You've already found you're limited in new SBO intake choices, unless you decide to go oldschool and dig around swap meets for some of the old stuff. Unfortunately aftermarket performance companies think SBC and SBF are the only engines made.
A Performer RPM is a good all-around street intake and can use a QuadraJet, which I think is overall a better choice than the Edelbrock AFB. Holleys are easier to find stuff for, but I've found it's always a compromise with a Holley. You can work a non-electronic QJ and have a real screamer, and as long as you don't get silly on the primary side it will still deliver reasonable gas mileage.
You can always put a good phenolic carb spacer on, blend it to the intake, and add high-rise effect that way though it tends to alter the Oldsmobile's torque curve up.
Cam? I'd go somewhere in the .480-.490 lift range, 275-285 duration depending on torque converter and gears. Use 1.6:1 (or even 1.7 if your piston dishes will stand it)ratio rockers to get a little bit more lift, and a good three-angle valve cut makes an Oldsmobile happy. You can do a little port-polish-blend work on the heads if you like. At the very least I'd get rid of the exhaust port EGR bumps.
Use an HEI distributor curved to get about 36 degrees total vacuum + mechanical advance. I would not lock the advance mechanism on a street driven Olds engine.
#38
Thank you,
At the moment I am going to be running the stock tranny (the 200-4r if i aint mistakin) and gears until i can find a TH-400 or something. I am planning to throw a posi in and im not sure of the gears though. Being only 15 and very into sports, it is rather complicated to make the sufficient money needed.
This is the cam i am planning on getting
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...K&autoview=sku
Another question:
What cheap headers would work for my car? The reason I need new ones is because I want to run true dual exhaust.
At the moment I am going to be running the stock tranny (the 200-4r if i aint mistakin) and gears until i can find a TH-400 or something. I am planning to throw a posi in and im not sure of the gears though. Being only 15 and very into sports, it is rather complicated to make the sufficient money needed.
This is the cam i am planning on getting
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...K&autoview=sku
Another question:
What cheap headers would work for my car? The reason I need new ones is because I want to run true dual exhaust.
#39
Go with a RPM Air Gap manifold. I found it best as an all round manifold. Not too sure about your cam as I do not know what valve springs you are running. The factory specs on 5.7 liter Vortec heads call for a maximum lift of 0.450. Check out Summit as they have some inexpensive headers.
One more thing, don't polish the inside of the intake manifold as you want the mixture (gas & air) to swirl so they mix better. If the inside of the intake manifold is smooth they won't mix properly.
One more thing, don't polish the inside of the intake manifold as you want the mixture (gas & air) to swirl so they mix better. If the inside of the intake manifold is smooth they won't mix properly.
Last edited by Rdrokit; May 12th, 2009 at 01:13 AM.
#40
Jonny- you never told us what engine is in the car now. Is it an Olds 307, or a Chevy 305, or god forbid a Buick V6?
What's currently in there will make a difference how easy it is to put a different engine in it. Swap Chevy for Chevy or Olds for Olds makes things simple. Busix to anything else can be done, just not as simple.
I think that Lunati grind you're looking at is too much cam for a 200 transmission and stock gears. I don't think either would live too long behind an engine with that much cam- it's gonna be pretty rumpy and make a lot of torque, which will shred the 200 quickly. It might not get along with the ECM computer either, if you have to stay on it for emissions.
I'd also go with a built-up Turbo 350 over a 400. It'll fit better and take almost as much abuse as a 400, and won't take so much HP to drive it. You can get a 200-4R built up to take that engine too- then you have a good gear spread plus overdrive which will help your fuel mileage.
I expect your car has a 7.5" rear which is kinda limited as far as available performance gearing, though you can swap in a rear from a Hurst/442, Monte SS or GN which will give you 3.73 gearing in an 8.5" carrier. Just might be kinda pricey because of what it fits. I think ElCaminos and wagons have the 8.5 too, not sure.
Good luck, young'un. Keep us in the loop, we'll help.
What's currently in there will make a difference how easy it is to put a different engine in it. Swap Chevy for Chevy or Olds for Olds makes things simple. Busix to anything else can be done, just not as simple.
I think that Lunati grind you're looking at is too much cam for a 200 transmission and stock gears. I don't think either would live too long behind an engine with that much cam- it's gonna be pretty rumpy and make a lot of torque, which will shred the 200 quickly. It might not get along with the ECM computer either, if you have to stay on it for emissions.
I'd also go with a built-up Turbo 350 over a 400. It'll fit better and take almost as much abuse as a 400, and won't take so much HP to drive it. You can get a 200-4R built up to take that engine too- then you have a good gear spread plus overdrive which will help your fuel mileage.
I expect your car has a 7.5" rear which is kinda limited as far as available performance gearing, though you can swap in a rear from a Hurst/442, Monte SS or GN which will give you 3.73 gearing in an 8.5" carrier. Just might be kinda pricey because of what it fits. I think ElCaminos and wagons have the 8.5 too, not sure.
Good luck, young'un. Keep us in the loop, we'll help.