JohnnyBs68S

I'm in the market for a new radiator and have my heart set on this one:


http://www.championradiators.com/Old...ator-1966-1977


My car is a non-A/C car w/ an aftermarket A/C that dad added back in the '70s. The original 2-row radiator was re-cored in the early '90s w/ 4-rows using the original tanks so it'd fit back in. I also upgraded the fan to a deep-fin clutch fan that pulls some air when the car isn't moving (car has it's original shroud too). I'm tired of the oozing copper/brass radiator and want to switch to a new aluminum radiator.


I made some measurements comparing radiator dimensions, and this one looks to be slightly smaller than my modified original radiator overall, and the hose inlet/outlets are spec'd at 1.5" while mine appear to be ~1-9/16". I checked some radiator hose specs on RockAuto and most of them show a 1-3/4" diam ID at the radiator. So my questions are:


1) What should I use to "shim" this slightly smaller radiator (if required) to fit in the original location?
2) Will the 1.75" hoses clamp down and seal OK on the 1.5" inlet/outlets? Or will I need to use a rubber sleeve to adapt? And where would I find those?
3) Is there a better fitting aluminum radiator available for a reasonable price? I'd prefer one without plastic tanks.


Any other advice is welcome. Thanks.

Octania

The original 2-row radiator was re-cored in the early '90s w/ 4-rows using the original tanks so it'd fit back in.
====================
That must be some trick. Thinner rows? How else can you fit more into the same space?

JohnnyBs68S

The original 2 rows were only ~1/2 as thick overall as the end tanks, so adding 2 more rows didn't exceed the thickness of the tanks, so it still fit in the same "saddles". Indeed, each row of the 4-row core may not have been quite as thick as each row of the 2-row core, but they were close.

White_Knuckles

Having a Frankencar with many after-market parts would be my world. No way am I going to attempt sourcing out factory original fitment these days! Those restore guys have a whole other patience level. However, as a home fab subject matter expert (read hack), I'll try and hit up your questions?

Your current hose clamps are fine to use with smaller pipe connections. The worm gear style will pull down where you may trim any excess tongue off with tin snips. If your clamps are the spring wrap style, forget 'em. Make sure they're stainless steel replacements.

You need accurate measurements of the best aluminum choice you are fitting. Check what you can accommodate paying attention to existing mount points and hardware. The fab fun begins with a test fitment that reveals where existing hardware, new brackets, and/or shims may be needed. Rubber stock laying around like old tires or inner-tube cuttings make dandy shims. Having to make up a couple brackets may be needed to squeeze her in? A vise, a big hammer, drill and you're set up. I've spent too much time messin' with these and also lucked out where they slide in with a couple shims. Getting the trans lines to connect properly was a treat when the radiator maker moves them! The fan shroud may be interesting as often they don't move over nicely. The clutch fan may be fine but without a shroud, but not efficient. Flex style or electric fans often are considered for shroudless operation. The distance from the fan to the rad is also to be measured and observed with install. Pump to flex fan adapters come in various lengths to make it easy.

Always consider when changing stuff over to other spec parts it may take crazy time and planning to get it right. Great pay-off when you make something work. Good luck!

amphicar770

I'll have to look at the brand but I have an aluminum radiator in my 68 that is designed to look like original unit. From an appearance perspective it is very close to perfect. Cools much better. I'll check in the AM.

amphicar770

Here it is. Pretty sure I bought elsewhere for considerably less $$$ but this gives you the make/model/specs...

https://www.yearone.com/Product/1964...442/1836-17008

JohnnyBs68S

Thanks, but oh my that is salty! Looks sweet though. However, as White Knuckles commented, I have no pretentions that my car will ever be a pristine example of a highly sought-after model. If it were a 442 or a W-machine, without a doubt I'd spare no change keeping it all original appearing down to the radiator flap fasteners.


I went ahead and bit the bullet on the radiator linked in my first post. Ordered the Delco molded hoses from RockAuto too. I'll post-up on fitment once I get this job done in the next few weeks.


Thanks!

pmathews

I bought this radiator for $103 off Amazon, and it fit perfectly on my '67.

I can now run the interstate on a hot day (90F) at 85 mph with water temps stable at 190F without a fan (I tested this, so I am certain).


It's a single row aluminum radiator

allyolds68

I used one for a 94-95 Chevy P30 van with a G Body upper hose in my 68 442 with a 455. 5 years and no issues. It's a single core aluminum too

JohnnyBs68S

Well, I finished this job last weekend. The new radiator fit as good as could be expected. The flange-flange dimension (that sits in the rubber "saddles" on the core support below and retainer plate - whatever that is called - from above) was the same as the original radiator. And I used one of the rubber "caps" that came w/ the new radiator as a "filler" around the lower return port so the lower radiator hose didn't need to clamp down quite as much on the smaller port.


I ended up ordering new rubber "saddles", I think I got the last set Rock Auto had. They offered two choices, two long & two short rubber pieces, or 4 long rubber pieces, I got the latter. Ended up needing to trim ~ 3/8" to get the nipples to fit the existing holes (I took this out of the middle), also notched where the rubber needed to bend 90-deg so that the sides wouldn't buckle-out. All the other rubber pieces (sides that were clipped in, and top and bottom, were all still useable after cleaning them up.

While I had everything apart, I took the opportunity to clean up and "rust proof" the core support (as much as I could get to, but everything below where the radiator sits) and clean-up / repaint the top side to make it all newish looking. I used some left-over Rust-Encapsulator (from Eastwood) and some Chassis Black I used on my rear axle rebuild project. The Chassis black was much glossier than I thought it was going to be, but at least its fresh looking.


I also updated my old beat-up coolant return bottle w/ a new one that fit in a metal-wire bracket from O'Reilly's Auto parts. Much better than before.

oldcutlass

I have the Vista Pro equivalent to that radiator and it works well with my car on the highway, but is a bit borderline in traffic on a 100 degree day.