Hey guys. this is my first classic car. I don't know anything about cars, however i'm a very fast learner. i have some plans for this 72 cutlass. I paid $5,000. I'm sure i will be asking many question, just to give everyone a warning. Since i don't know much about cars i has hoping i got a good deal.

It contains;
1st the engine
350ci oldsmobile
engine block was bored over 0.030 so know its a 355ci
internal rotating assembly was balanced (crank, rods, pistons)
2 bolt mains have studs and connecting rods have studs instead of bolts
crank and rods are stock just lightened up when balanced
piston custom made diamond 11:1 compression ratio
cylinder heads were machined 0.030 to make combustion chambers smaller chambers are 77cc, used to be 80cc
heads have bronze valve guides performance valves at 1.98 inchs, 1.65 inchs not very big but olds didn't put large valves in their heads
dual valve springs for hydraulic roller cam at 0.050 234, 244 duration and 0.536,0.536 valve lift, (cam is from mondello racing in california look them up on the internet)
comp cams hydraulic roller lifters, double roller timing chain
comp cam roller rockers, one piece push rods, high volume oil pump
mallory distributor and ignition box, performer rpm intake, 750cfm edelbrock 4 barrel electric choke carb
headers w/ 3 inch exhaust, dynomax mufflers
100amp alternator, flex-lite dual electric fans, aluminum radiator

transmission
350 olds trans
torque converter 3100-3500rpm stahl
trans cooler
reverse manual valve body (for shifting)
b&m master overhaul kit clutches bands and seals
b&m sport shifter

rear end is stock
8.5inch 10bolt 2.73 gear
5 spoke aluminum rims 15x5.5 15 x8.5
28x10.5x15 mickey thompson sportsman pros on rear

interior
reupholstered front and rear seats
new foam on front seats and 1 new lower spring on pass seat

 

nice car buddy i would do the engine first its the most important part,plus if you have a knock you could be running metal through the engine

 

$5K? I'd say a smoking deal for the work that has already been done. pretty sure the previous owner took a good hit on the money he put into it. I'm not a huge fan of the "S" body (I'm a Supreme kinda guy) but I can appreciate a nicely done Olds no matter any model.

Just a couple observations, young padouine of the Olds world...

99.9% of us know who Mondello is. And another 75% of those who do know who he is stay away from him. So that is not a huge plus in (my personal) book.

Olds did put bigger valves in thier SBO heads. Look up the W-31 option.

If they cut .030 off the heads and didn't mill the intake, I am 100% certain you have mismatched ports. This also tells me you have #8 heads on the motor, which indicates its NOT the original 72 motor, as they would have been #7a heads that already have a much smaller combustion chamber. No milling would have been necessary.

Congrats on your new ride. Its good to know you understand your limitations so make sure you ask any or all questions you have, no matter how insignificant you feel they are. Just be sure to use the "search" feature of the forum so you don't ask a question that gets asked 1000 times in a month.

(EDIT: Addition)
Since the motor has been out of the car, and you sense a knock, the VERY FIRST thing you need to check is to see if the torque converter bolts are TIGHT. If they are beginning to loosen, you will THINK you have a knock. You also need to check all of the exhaust connections starting from the headers to the heads, then the flanges. And exhaust leak will also sound like a knock to the untrained ear.

I personally would drive the car for a few months before spending ANY money on it up front. Like anything new, you are just getting the feel of the car. Get used to it, and find out what it may NEED. You don't want to spend all your money on trinkets and then find you need a new motor.

John

 

You may also check the flywheel make sure its not cracked. Alternator or power steering pump if they have a bearing going bad could have a knock. I would check before I'd pull an engine that might be ok.

 

the reason i think its the main bearing is bc it has a high volume oil pump and a standard 5Q oil pan. at 2500rpm it starts to tick. i was told it was due to the high volume of oil being kicked up into the upper engine leaving the bottom dry. what is peoples opinion on the diagnoses.

 

Congratulations.

My very first car I ever owned was a 1972 Olds Cutlass S I bought used
off a US Navy Master at Arms in Pensacola Florida in 1993. I taught myself
how to drive with that big ole boat too.

I would have to agree, if the engine is knocking that is priority #1.
The rest is meaningless if you can't drive it.

 

Nice ride for $5K. Sounds like you know more about cars than what you state. Where did that console come from? There have been some nice stock ones on Ebay recently. Post more pics, we like the visual stuff! Chumley

 

Im guessing he had to make a custom console, because if its anything like my 64 the base of b&m shifter was to big to fit completely under the floorboard without hitting the top of the trans. So he had to mount the shifter a inch or 2 higher then normal making it hard to find a boot that will fit over it. Even with a boot that fits the trans hump is rounded, making it hard to get a clean install.

 

Olds engine are know for that the only way help it use oil restrictors. Are you it's not a rocker tick.

 

You need a 7 quart pan with the HV pump.

 

Congrats on the ride and welcome to the forum! I agree, it sounds like you got a great deal for $5k. Others here have already given good advice, so I agree I would deal with the motor 1st. Then drive it around and enjoy it. You can fix the other stuff as you drive it.