I am ready to do the steering gear swap on my 72. The thread from the Chevelle site removes both ends of the Pitman arm. Why? Will the new gear require turning the sleeves on the tie rods, and if so, will that throw off my alignment?

 

It's much easier to get the pitman arm splines aligned properly without the tie rod and center link hanging off of it. You'll want to get an alignment, or at least check the toe-in setting after swapping the box. It shouldn't change much, but there are small production tolerances that can affect the setting.

 

I have a Pitman Arm puller, but I will have to rent or buy one to pull it off the center link. If I buy one, what size does it need to be? Is it the same as a ball joint puller?

 

Honestly, when I did it, I left the Pitman arm on the centerlink, and had no trouble at all.

It never occurred to me to remove it and I wouldn't bother to.

- Eric

 

Trust me, pulling it off the gearbox is A LOT more difficult than getting it off the drag link. If removing from the drag link makes installation easier, do it. It only reqires a good whack with a hammer.
And it shouldn't affect alignment but your steering wheel might be off center.

 

If the steering box is put together correctly, your steering should be straight-on.

- Eric

 

Well, if the wheels are centered correctly....and if the box is centered.....and if the rag joint isn't 180 degrees out..... lotta "ifs".

 

The Pitman arm can only fit on the shaft one way (it has keys every 90°, but the other three ways would prevent it from connecting with the centerlink).

The steering box is assembled so that the Pitman arm is centered when the input shaft is centered (or it'd better be).

The rag joint has one large and one small bolt, and should only be installable one way, so it can't be installed 180° out (and if you somehow managed to do this, you'd only have to disconnect it and rotate the steering wheel half a turn).

Not a lot of Ifs at all.

- Eric

 

One of the first rag joints I got was assembled 180 degrees out. Chinese repop? That's why I stick to the dorman ones now.
And when I swapped in the jeep box, I couldn't get the steering wheel strait up again without alignment. So maybe no assembled to exact?

 

Maybe the old one was out. I don't know.

But there is not supposed to be any adjustment necessary when changing steering boxes.
I've changed a few at various times over the years, and never had any changes in steering wheel position.

- Eric

 

Okay, I have everything out and after a little cleanup, I am ready to install the new Jeep gear. I tried to pre-fit the new rag joint to the gear, and I can't get it on. Yes, I know it has a flat spot, and I line that up with the corresponding flat on the gear shaft, but it won't go on.


Should I tap it on? Or try to slightly spread the joint? I bought it from Lee with the inserts for the hoses. The joint is 62420 coupler-small 3/4 30 with pinch bolt. Did I get the right joint?

 

I also loosened, then removed the screw that tightens to the shaft. I think I got the wrong rag joint, or the input shaft is bigger.

 

Take a close look at the sizes of the shaft and the rag joint. Also see if you can count the splines - the different sized shafts have different numbers of splines.

It should just slip on, or at least push or tap on with slight effort.

Posting photos wouldn't hurt.

- Eric

 

Pictures don't show much, but I measure across the spines and between the splines in the joint. Splines on the shaft are .725. Internal splines are .700. Looks like it will take a BFH or maybe the right size joint.

 

Just spoke with Lee Mfg., who said the next larger joint is MUCH larger. He suggested I run the bolt from the opposite side with a piece of metal in the opening to slightly spread open the joint.

 

Sounds right to me.

- Eric

 

Okay, I spread it enough to get it on. Next issue is the socket to tighten the bolt that tightens the flange to the shaft. The head kind of looks splined.


Is that just an 8 point socket, or something else, and what is it called. I have an 7/16 8 point that sort of fits, but the socket wall is too thick. It binds between the gear and the rag joint before I can tighten it down. I need to buy one with thinner walls.

 

It is a 12-point.

Make absolutely sure that the socket really does fit all the way onto the head, because when the steering box is installed, and it's hard to see and reach perfectly, it is easy to get it wedged in there between the head and the wall and think it's tight, when it's actually loose.

I had this happen once, and caught it after a drive on a twisty road, where the steering just didn't "feel right." When I wiggled it, it fell off. Let me tell you, it got my attention.

I found that I had to grind the casting slightly to ensure I had clearance for the socket.
I would advise you to do the same.



- Eric

 

Thanks Eric, my 8 point (for square nuts) sort of worked, but was rounding off the edges. In fact, it slipped right on. I'll have to find a thin wall 12 point.


Dave

 

Okay, my old trusty 1/2 drive 7/16 12 point Craftsman from 1969 worked perfectly. It tapers at the open end, so there was no clearance issues. I knew I had removed these before, and thought I had misplaced a special socket.

 

I finished the steering gear change today, along with a few other minor things like transmission filter change. It drives very nicely and is much tighter with much better road feel. The car still drives straight as an arrow, but the steering wheel is a little off center, so I will have the alignment adjusted to correct that. I think I am going to be very happy with the change!

 

Great!!

- Eric