Help with parts
Help with parts
I have a 1969 cutlass S and i am looking for a spindle(i think that is what it is called) for my front Wheels. what happen is when the tries were taking off the rod where the nut goes in broke off. I have one less nut on cause there is no where to put it :P . I also need a new speedometer. I have looked at opgi but cann't find the original one just a face plate. The last thing I am looking for is new rims one of my rims is all messed up.
Thanks for any help guys.
Thanks for any help guys.
Last edited by Doomah; Apr 18, 2012 at 10:38 AM.
where are u located...
couple of things, if you need a spindle do you have discs or drums up front, I don't think they are the same, I upgraded to disc brakes on mine, I have two spindles, that have been sandblasted, por-15'd and painted correctly, but they are for a drum brake car. Shipping would be pricey, I am in jersey. When you say Rims what are you looking for? steelies with Hubcaps, rally wheels, or mag wheels?
I am Drum brakes all around, It is going to be awhile to do the disc, brakes kits are alot of money and I am in the middle of doing other things to car. i live in new york not sure if it will be that much for shipping. Not sure about the rims if you look at my pic that is the rims I have now(the ones that broke) I was thinking of going with the original rims if i can find them for a good price, how much would you want for the spindles?
Thanks for the reply
Thanks for the reply
nope it is the spindle, I was told that one can be wielded on but it could just brake off again that it would be better to just get a new spindle. i figure why buy one spindle for one side might as well buy both. Another question I have is about scarebird brake kit is it 125.00 for the whole kit?
http://www.scarebird.com/index.php?id=1
http://www.scarebird.com/index.php?id=1
I am Drum brakes all around, It is going to be awhile to do the disc, brakes kits are alot of money and I am in the middle of doing other things to car. i live in new york not sure if it will be that much for shipping. Not sure about the rims if you look at my pic that is the rims I have now(the ones that broke) I was thinking of going with the original rims if i can find them for a good price, how much would you want for the spindles?
Thanks for the reply
Thanks for the reply

ok where in NY are you? if it is fairly close ( I am exit 9 on the jersey turnpike) maybe we can meet half way or something, I know your on a budget... regardless I will take pics of the spindles tonight... they are complete, the backing plates have been done etc etc, I will check what used spindles are worth, I really have no idea, I was keeping them in case the next owner wanted "original parts".....,and I believe I also have new inner and outer bearings, the seals etc, ( timken made in USA) that I could include, I do have a set of ss1's in 14" not sure if I want to sell them, let me think about that
I'm confused too. The spindle is the single long rod that goes through the center of the wheel. There are 5 lugs bolts that go through the wheel and attach it with 5 lug nuts. Do you have a broken spindle end and a broken wheel lug bolt?
Speedometers are pretty much interchageable between numerous years. One for column shift (with gear indicator on the speedometer face) and one for floor shift column with no gear indicator on the speedometer face. The color of the high beam indicator light also varies between years, but that won't effect it's functionality. Maybe someone on this forum has a speedometer. I bought one from ebay for not much money.
Speedometers are pretty much interchageable between numerous years. One for column shift (with gear indicator on the speedometer face) and one for floor shift column with no gear indicator on the speedometer face. The color of the high beam indicator light also varies between years, but that won't effect it's functionality. Maybe someone on this forum has a speedometer. I bought one from ebay for not much money.
I am confused, also.
What he says is:
Or, as I believe he means:
It sounds like a broken lug stud to me, too.
Just get a new one at the auto parts store and pound it in.
- Eric
What he says is:
when the tires were taken off of the car, the rod [stud?] where the nut goes in [onto which the lug nut screws?] broke off. I have one less [lug?] nut on [be]cause there is no[]where to put it
Just get a new one at the auto parts store and pound it in.
- Eric
careful..
speedometers for a 68-69 while looking almost Identical, have differences in mounting and are NOT interchangeable with a 70-72.
I was also curious about the spindle that is a BIG chunk of metal to just snap, but I suppose anything can happen. Doomah, check the picture attached, the spindle is referred to as the steering knuckle in the diagram is this the part?
I was also curious about the spindle that is a BIG chunk of metal to just snap, but I suppose anything can happen. Doomah, check the picture attached, the spindle is referred to as the steering knuckle in the diagram is this the part?
Ok maybe I didn't explain it good enuff :P So the piece that has the thread on it where the lug nut goes in is what broke off, so instead of 5 lug nuts I have 4 on one side, I thoought that was called the spindle which will have 5 slots for the lug nuts, But I am wrong it is not the piece in the pic, When I took it to a guy to get fix he said it be easier to just get a new one instead of welding it.
Sorry if I made anyone confused my dad told me it was the spindle and I just told him he is wrong :P
I guess it is something like a LUG HUB?
Sorry if I made anyone confused my dad told me it was the spindle and I just told him he is wrong :P
I guess it is something like a LUG HUB?
Last edited by Doomah; Apr 19, 2012 at 11:16 AM.
cool....
ok the good news is it should be a VERY easy fix, the bad news is you really need to find a new mechanic.
Studs break ALL the time, you pop them out and replace, you do not need to weld at all. this should be VERY inexpensive as well, that is part 2 of the good news...
Studs break ALL the time, you pop them out and replace, you do not need to weld at all. this should be VERY inexpensive as well, that is part 2 of the good news...
should be able to get these anywhere..
you should be able to get these anywhere, but they are cheap ( 45 cents a piece) what you will need to do is seperate the drum from the spindle (
) and get a metal punch, that is about the size of the stud, and you are going to hit this with a hammer ( backward toward the spindle, not the tire) then you will replace it, flip the lug nut around so the flat side faces the hub, and tighten till it is pulled in snug, very very simple. ear eye protection as Girl watching season is approaching full bloom and you do not want to damage your peepers.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=145910
) and get a metal punch, that is about the size of the stud, and you are going to hit this with a hammer ( backward toward the spindle, not the tire) then you will replace it, flip the lug nut around so the flat side faces the hub, and tighten till it is pulled in snug, very very simple. ear eye protection as Girl watching season is approaching full bloom and you do not want to damage your peepers.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=145910
this is a replacement rear stud but front is similar
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rU01gmwcYPs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rU01gmwcYPs
I am told that we tried to do that but the hole that the stud goes into is to big. that why my dad said to find the piece and why they were thinking about welding it. If this even sounds right??
Also if anyone is in queens new york and knows a good mechanic that can fix this please let me know :P
But I am going to try to do what you said my self eddie hansen and again tks for the reply's guys
Also if anyone is in queens new york and knows a good mechanic that can fix this please let me know :P
But I am going to try to do what you said my self eddie hansen and again tks for the reply's guys
Last edited by Doomah; Apr 19, 2012 at 11:52 AM.
oversized knurl
Doomah, if in fact the hub hole for whatever reason is larger that the others I believe they make studs with an oversized knurl, ( that is the portion that gets pulled into the hub) ,check your auto parts store person, absolutely worse case scenario you could probably get away with a larger stud from another vehicle ( ford comes to mind) but this isn't the correct way to do it......it is a way but not the right way, is the stud out? how do they know it was too big? did this guy drill it? and again what you need if everything fails is a New HUB not spindle.
Yea i found the studs with the bigger knurl got one of each to see which one fits, the stud is out and when he try to put a new stud in it was to small and that's when he said he can weld it to make it fit.
Sorry but i have another question which is better for RIMS steel or Aluminum?
Sorry but i have another question which is better for RIMS steel or Aluminum?
i have lived in forest hills and bay ridge for new 'yawk' size potholes steel rims seem better, aluminum tend to get damaged etc but it is up to your taste I like the rally whel look of factory 'mags' but I also like the usual suspects for custom wheels I prefer period correct custom wheels meaning ones that a guy would have put on his car back in 69 I don't like 22 inch wheels
unless they are on a Mack truck. In ur case my opinion would be to find 1 replacement wheel it will be cheaper than a set of rallys I put a set of 15 inch rally on my 69 and still love the look.... just my two cents its whatever makes u feeln good that will be the righ choice
unless they are on a Mack truck. In ur case my opinion would be to find 1 replacement wheel it will be cheaper than a set of rallys I put a set of 15 inch rally on my 69 and still love the look.... just my two cents its whatever makes u feeln good that will be the righ choice
i do like the wheels
U have on the car
the way to find rally wheels is going to swap meets and such queens isn't too far from English town etc and there are always good deals might put a post up in parts wanted, look at Craig's list, even junk yards the later style rallyes we call ss2 or even 3 was used into the 80s they came in 14 s and 15 s and will fit your car plus the later ones were made for disc brakes and will be OK if u upgrade you might even be able to swap those wheels with somebody? Or sell em later to reduce costs just trying to help bro
the way to find rally wheels is going to swap meets and such queens isn't too far from English town etc and there are always good deals might put a post up in parts wanted, look at Craig's list, even junk yards the later style rallyes we call ss2 or even 3 was used into the 80s they came in 14 s and 15 s and will fit your car plus the later ones were made for disc brakes and will be OK if u upgrade you might even be able to swap those wheels with somebody? Or sell em later to reduce costs just trying to help bro
The hole is not too big unless some previous owner drilled it out. You have a replacement stud that is not the right size. Get the right size replacement stud from one of the Olds Parts suppliers if you can't find one locally, although just about any place that does tires should be able to fix it for you. I'd try NAPA. They'll need the car year and whether your car has drum or disk brakes on the front. If you have the broken part, take it with you to match it up.
There is something seriously wrong with the world if he has to go to an Olds specialty supplier for them. I agree that NAPA should have them in stock. He may also wish to try an established, old, non-affiliated parts store in his neighborhood. If he wants to take a drive, I'd bet Archer's on Staten Island has every possible variation of what he needs.
And, remember, there are four other studs on that wheel - he could probably drive for years without the fifth one and never have a problem.
Are your sure? If I recall my front drum brake anatomy correctly, he needs a DRUM, not a hub.
- Eric
I think I am going to go with these wheels wish they were cheaper but o well.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/15-15x7-Blac...ht_4229wt_1163
, What I have on now is aluminum and these RIMS broke on me so I am a little scared getting aluminum again don't want to spend this much money just to have New York Streets destroy my rims again :P.
Not sure what my age has any thing to do with this but I am 35, I am not a car guy I am a computer Tech, that's why I am asking these questions. If I am asking the wrong question then I am sorry I will take my question else where , I just thought people on here would be able to help me :Shrugs:
Thanks for the Info Guys I will leave you guys alone now.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/15-15x7-Blac...ht_4229wt_1163
, What I have on now is aluminum and these RIMS broke on me so I am a little scared getting aluminum again don't want to spend this much money just to have New York Streets destroy my rims again :P.
Not sure what my age has any thing to do with this but I am 35, I am not a car guy I am a computer Tech, that's why I am asking these questions. If I am asking the wrong question then I am sorry I will take my question else where , I just thought people on here would be able to help me :Shrugs:
Thanks for the Info Guys I will leave you guys alone now.
Last edited by Doomah; Apr 20, 2012 at 05:37 AM.
whoa whoa whoa.....
Doomah, I am sure nothing was meant by the question... it was probably to gauge the type or completeness of reply. We are all here to help
I like those wheels but they are also aluminum bro... regardless they will be fine, very nice choice.... there is a guy selling a similar look set , but are the factory wheels here on the forum
look here
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ires-ebay.html
stick around bud, it is a great place for info and learning

I like those wheels but they are also aluminum bro... regardless they will be fine, very nice choice.... there is a guy selling a similar look set , but are the factory wheels here on the forum
look here
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ires-ebay.html
stick around bud, it is a great place for info and learning
That's okay, Eddie - I honestly never heard it's "official" name - always just heard it referred to as the front drum.
It is, in fact, both a drum (the thingie that the shoes press on) and a hub (the thingie that holds the bearings and rides on the spindle), so the full name does make sense.
Simple: We have a wide variety of geography, cultures, professions, educations, personalities, and ages on this board. Each has things to contribute, and some require different sorts of treatment than others.
We have had fairly young teenagers doing work on their cars here, and usually they have needed more basic instruction than older members, because they just hadn't had the life experience to pick up knowledge that older folks just assume is basic.
Since you're 35, but inexperienced with cars, and a computer tech, that gives all of us an idea of where to start when talking to you. We can assume that you have a brain and common sense experience, as well as a logical way of approaching problems. We also have a number of members here who are computer techs, who may be able to phrase things in ways that are easier for you to get quickly.
By the way, I think you said you were in Queens - where in Queens are you? I'll be in town in a couple of weeks.
As a wise man once said, "There are no wrong questions, only stupid questions."
No, wait, that wasn't it...
It sounds like you need some basic information to start with, and can then build from there.
I would strongly recommend getting a copy of the 1969 Chassis Service Manual (eBay is a popular source) and actually thumbing entirely through it, skimming or reading it from front to back, to give yourself some background and see how things fit together.
Until you find a copy, it is available free on WildAboutCars. You should also have a Fisher Body Manual and, if you're the obsessive type, an Assembly Manual.
The answers to most basic questions, including how things actually work, can be found in there.
Mechanic-oriented manuals, such as Motor or Glenn manuals, can often be founds at yard sales and flea markets for just a few bucks, and are great at explaining how things work, and giving practical advice, too.
As for your brake drum, it looks like the Wagner BD60198 is a good number to look for interchanges with.
Advance lists it for $69 and RockAuto lists it for $35.
Interestingly, NAPA doesn't seem to list it.
It is shown as fitting:
so it shouldn't be hard to find.
I would still recommend using an oversize stud in your current drum, though.
- Eric
It is, in fact, both a drum (the thingie that the shoes press on) and a hub (the thingie that holds the bearings and rides on the spindle), so the full name does make sense.
Simple: We have a wide variety of geography, cultures, professions, educations, personalities, and ages on this board. Each has things to contribute, and some require different sorts of treatment than others.
We have had fairly young teenagers doing work on their cars here, and usually they have needed more basic instruction than older members, because they just hadn't had the life experience to pick up knowledge that older folks just assume is basic.
Since you're 35, but inexperienced with cars, and a computer tech, that gives all of us an idea of where to start when talking to you. We can assume that you have a brain and common sense experience, as well as a logical way of approaching problems. We also have a number of members here who are computer techs, who may be able to phrase things in ways that are easier for you to get quickly.
By the way, I think you said you were in Queens - where in Queens are you? I'll be in town in a couple of weeks.
No, wait, that wasn't it...

It sounds like you need some basic information to start with, and can then build from there.
I would strongly recommend getting a copy of the 1969 Chassis Service Manual (eBay is a popular source) and actually thumbing entirely through it, skimming or reading it from front to back, to give yourself some background and see how things fit together.
Until you find a copy, it is available free on WildAboutCars. You should also have a Fisher Body Manual and, if you're the obsessive type, an Assembly Manual.
The answers to most basic questions, including how things actually work, can be found in there.
Mechanic-oriented manuals, such as Motor or Glenn manuals, can often be founds at yard sales and flea markets for just a few bucks, and are great at explaining how things work, and giving practical advice, too.
As for your brake drum, it looks like the Wagner BD60198 is a good number to look for interchanges with.
Advance lists it for $69 and RockAuto lists it for $35.
Interestingly, NAPA doesn't seem to list it.
It is shown as fitting:
HTML Code:
BUICK APOLLO (1973 - 1974) CHEVROLET CAMARO (1968 - 1969) CHEVROLET CHEVELLE (1968 - 1972) CHEVROLET EL CAMINO (1968 - 1972) CHEVROLET G10 (1967 - 1970) CHEVROLET NOVA (1968 - 1974) GMC G15/G1500 VAN (1967 - 1970) GMC SPRINT (1971 - 1972) OLDSMOBILE 442 (1967 - 1971) OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS (1967 - 1972) OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS SUPREME (1971 - 1972) OLDSMOBILE OMEGA (1973 - 1974) PONTIAC VENTURA (1971 - 1974)
I would still recommend using an oversize stud in your current drum, though.
- Eric
My 72 has 4 wheel drums, and when I replaced the front drums, I got drums separate from the hub. So the hub bolts on as normal, but the drums slip on just like the rear drums. I had never seen that before, but I hadn't dealt with GM front drums since 1970, so maybe I wasn't aware of changes.
I've had front drums on '70 Chevelles, a '72 Skylark, a '70 Cutlass, and a '68 Delta, and I remember having to remove the spindle nut and wheel bearings to service the brakes.
A separate hub would make all of that much easier.
I may be completely wrong on this issue.
I'll have to check the parts manual...
[insert tick-tock sound]
Checked the Parts Manual:
- '68-'72 A-bodies (except station wagons and OAI),
- '73-'74 X-bodies, and
- '66-'70 Toros
All B and C-bodies, and all other A-bodies have the single-unit drum/hubs.
So, it looks like he needs a HUB, Part #3887867 (as Eddie correctly said) and not a DRUM (as I incorrectly corrected him).
It looks like this:
I am having trouble finding that part on the usual sites, so this may be a junkyard (or CO member
) item.- Eric
LOL.... Eric don't be so fast, I am pretty sure my drums and hub are attached as an assembly, as you have said, when I posted I thought there was a way to get them apart but again, I wasn't sure. I thought they sold hubs, and what they are calling oversized drums, (larger center hole) and something like a speed nut to secure them...Much like Brownie said, but again, I didn't and don't know for sure, but the assembly manual shows them seperately. So I suggested the parts guy, but jeez this is a friggin wheel stud, PJ get out the Big Fng hammer , use a hard drive and "reboot" that mother!!!
otherwise we are going to tease you that you have a "floppy" drive

see we can talk to Computer guys!!
at the end of the day, I also agree with Brownie regarding the stud, the usual assistance from the local pep boyz suggests the guy might have looked up a newer cutlass LOL... ya never know.
I hope to get into the shop tonight and finish straightening up before I continue my debacle so I will have a look again. and I do have the drums/hubs too but now I am worried If someone wanted to return my car to stock, the parts will be hard to find?
otherwise we are going to tease you that you have a "floppy" drive

see we can talk to Computer guys!!at the end of the day, I also agree with Brownie regarding the stud, the usual assistance from the local pep boyz suggests the guy might have looked up a newer cutlass LOL... ya never know.
I hope to get into the shop tonight and finish straightening up before I continue my debacle so I will have a look again. and I do have the drums/hubs too but now I am worried If someone wanted to return my car to stock, the parts will be hard to find?
Just wanted to say tks to all the people that helped me with my problem. I was able to get new RIMS on my car and replaced 2 studs and everything is working great even got my speedo
The pic that is my avatar is my car with her new shoes on
The pic that is my avatar is my car with her new shoes on
Love it...
Love the new shoes PJ, good good stuff..... now we need to get you to work on getting stocker looking under the hood goodies.... No Offense the edelbrock air cleaner and moroso type valve cover studs just don't do it for me.. LOL....
Hi guys,
I'm Leslie and I'm from Holland.
I'm a mechanic and a friend of mine has a Cutlass S.
I am looking for that hub and the spindle!
And yes I am sure...
The bearings messed up both parts!
I hope you can help me Eddie?!
Can't get it anywhere here in The Netherlands.
I actually need one side only, don't know if that's a problem?
Tell me your price including shipping to Holland...
Many thanx in advance!!!
I'm Leslie and I'm from Holland.
I'm a mechanic and a friend of mine has a Cutlass S.
I am looking for that hub and the spindle!
And yes I am sure...

The bearings messed up both parts!
I hope you can help me Eddie?!

Can't get it anywhere here in The Netherlands.
I actually need one side only, don't know if that's a problem?
Tell me your price including shipping to Holland...
Many thanx in advance!!!
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