Okay, maybe it's just me but I have an issue switching cars with a 46 year handling difference! When I go crusin' in the Olds, it feels like there is no connection from the steering wheel to the tires. Somehow it steers moving the wheel but with no feedback to the driver, it seems strange.

The frontend is completely rebuilt with disc brakes etc. It's the way they thought power steering should feel. So, is there a fix to make heavier steering?

I looked at "quick-steer", steering boxes but they simply change the wheel lock-lock turns. Not sure that will solve the light steering at speed thing. I asked some alignment guys that said the camber can be altered to push back the wheels (adding shims) that will help tracking. This would make the car want to go in a straight line not wander like it does. This also would make the steering feel heavier. One guy said "we do this to A-bodies all the time 'cause they have near zero camber which is crazy".

Anyone experience this or heard about it? My other option is to remove the steering pump belt.

 

Quicker ratio will make the steering heavier, the same way a taller (numerically lower) rear makes it easier for the engine to transfer power - more turns to make the same movement equals less effort per turn.

 

I had a stock 16:1 power steering box on my 72 with all new suspension/steering. It felt like old school bus. I went to a 12:1 jeep box. Feels like a slot car now.

 

Quick steer will not make the steering heavier. I did a 12.7 conversion on my car from Power Steering Services out of Missouri this last winter he rebuilds everything including the pump so everything works properly together.
I just got back from a 500 mile trip through the mountains, one road was a 100 miles on what was basically a goat trail and the steering worked perfect, it's very firm and precise which I'm glad because it was a shear 1000' drip off on the side of the road with no shoulder in spots.
He is a little more expensive than other places but you get what you pay for.

 

Positive caster is your friend.

 

So both + Caster and the Q-steering can affect the result I'm looking for. Not rack and pinion surgical control, just more feel! Good info thanks. I'll start with the caster tweak just checking it really does something.

 

Plus T-bar size. The larger the T-bar, the more force must be exerted before the spool valve is activated and the assist kicks in.

As far as I can tell, the lagest T-bar is the 0.204", which is most notably installed on the '85-'88 Monte Carlo SS.

You should read Jim Shea's essays on the subject, plus a specific piece he wrote on A-bodies.

- Eric

 

Nice MD! Seems the Q-steer ratio has its merits according to Mr. Shea's documentation.

Sorry, but I didn't catch what exactly is a "T-bar" and where might it live?

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Thanks to all for your great feedback.

 

The T-bar is a torsion bar associated with the steering shaft.

It looks like this:



Notice that the left-hand bar is much thicker than the right-hand bar.

This article has a few good pictures.

- Eric

 

Ah, the torsion bar adds even more physics to this thing. The article is interesting. I had no idea stops were installed in the box to match turning radius. It's clear steering boxes and pump mods should be left to the pros.

 

I plan to do the 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee steering box mod in the next month. Have a used steering box and need to collect the other parts. Can't believe I use to drive this car since high school this way at high speeds.

 

They get real scary at 120 MPH.