Headers yes or no?
#1
Headers yes or no?
I am going back and forth about installing headers on my 1969 cutlass s 350 rocket, so I was wondering if anyone had any pics of 69 with headers, what I am worried about is that the headers will hang to low(I read on oldspower.com that someone had this problem) I live in new york and the roads have alot of big holes and bumps. So I am thinking of changing the exhaust manifolds and putting on my 3' pipes with new mufflers. By changing the exhaust manifolds and adding new pipes will I see more power or will it not really make a diff?
I brought these headers Flowtech 31150FLT and a completer set of 3' pipes with new mufflers
As always Thanks for any help.
I brought these headers Flowtech 31150FLT and a completer set of 3' pipes with new mufflers
As always Thanks for any help.
Last edited by Doomah; May 7th, 2012 at 06:36 AM.
#2
Since your going to do your exhaust anyway, why not install them and see what they look like. Then you can make an ed-u-ma-cate'd decision! Most headers will clear obstacles on a stock height vehicle!
#3
No pics handy, but I have Hedman's & 2.5" Dynomax(Thrush) H pipe kit on my '69 350 with no real ground clearance issues. Previous owner installed them along with a mini-starter to help with interfercence issues and think you have to move the brake prop valve also. Tight fit so happy he did it - I would have probably just done duals off the factory manifolds for simplicity.
Headers and 3" pipes could hurt bottom end performance on a street motor, performance gurus can better explain the need for a little backpressure. Are your current manifolds good? Might sway your decision.
Headers and 3" pipes could hurt bottom end performance on a street motor, performance gurus can better explain the need for a little backpressure. Are your current manifolds good? Might sway your decision.
#5
On a 350 unless its built for serious racing or HP 3" pipes will def cause you to lose bottom end. I have had several 400E blocks making anywhere from 400-450 hp on various builds and I always use 2.5" pipes. The rule of thumb is 3" if your over 550hp. I would def install headers and I just used those Flowtech on my 66 and the fitment was very good. This motor is around 425hp with lots of head/bowl work, torker intake, XE274 cam, roller rockers, file fit rings and various other speed goodies and it has 2.5". Good luck if you have any more questions PM me, I will give you my number and you can call to discuss this further.
#6
PJ....
Just as an aside, the 350 manifolds are the same, the muffler shop maks a block off pipe that fits on the right side, the manifolds can be removed sand blasted and coated with a ceramic type coating sold by eastwood and others, I know your working on the ground and fitting a dual exhaust system that way is gonna be a P.I.A., I think the 3 inch will be too much as well, and personally I don't like Loud exhaust as it makes long drives a little harsh sounding. I also think cars that take a little while to "wind Up" meaning highway gears in the back end just sound like wanna-bes IMHO.
on the other hand a set of 2 .25-2.5's and some decent mufflers will give you that low muscle car rumble.... just sayin, it's your car...
Just as an aside, the 350 manifolds are the same, the muffler shop maks a block off pipe that fits on the right side, the manifolds can be removed sand blasted and coated with a ceramic type coating sold by eastwood and others, I know your working on the ground and fitting a dual exhaust system that way is gonna be a P.I.A., I think the 3 inch will be too much as well, and personally I don't like Loud exhaust as it makes long drives a little harsh sounding. I also think cars that take a little while to "wind Up" meaning highway gears in the back end just sound like wanna-bes IMHO.
on the other hand a set of 2 .25-2.5's and some decent mufflers will give you that low muscle car rumble.... just sayin, it's your car...
#7
PJ....
Just as an aside, the 350 manifolds are the same, the muffler shop maks a block off pipe that fits on the right side, the manifolds can be removed sand blasted and coated with a ceramic type coating sold by eastwood and others, I know your working on the ground and fitting a dual exhaust system that way is gonna be a P.I.A., I think the 3 inch will be too much as well, and personally I don't like Loud exhaust as it makes long drives a little harsh sounding. I also think cars that take a little while to "wind Up" meaning highway gears in the back end just sound like wanna-bes IMHO.
on the other hand a set of 2 .25-2.5's and some decent mufflers will give you that low muscle car rumble.... just sayin, it's your car...
Just as an aside, the 350 manifolds are the same, the muffler shop maks a block off pipe that fits on the right side, the manifolds can be removed sand blasted and coated with a ceramic type coating sold by eastwood and others, I know your working on the ground and fitting a dual exhaust system that way is gonna be a P.I.A., I think the 3 inch will be too much as well, and personally I don't like Loud exhaust as it makes long drives a little harsh sounding. I also think cars that take a little while to "wind Up" meaning highway gears in the back end just sound like wanna-bes IMHO.
on the other hand a set of 2 .25-2.5's and some decent mufflers will give you that low muscle car rumble.... just sayin, it's your car...
x2
#8
Again, IMO, the thing which will make the most dramatic difference in the "seat of the pants" feel of power is a small stall converter in your 350 turbo trans. It frees the power up, lets the engine build some rpm quicker, and your car will roast the tires from a stop as never before. I like em!!
The blue 66 has a 400 turbo with switch pitch, with a smaller converter which has been reworked for more stall. Made a huge difference, I love it.
#9
I recently installed a set of Hooker ceramic coated super comps (1 5/8) on my 69 cutlass S. I Did have to re-bend transmission cooler lines, I did use my original starter without any heating or clearance issues. I do have an X-pipe, cutouts and Flowmaster 40'S on a 2.5" system and i will tell you what.....It made a very noticable difference (to me) in sound and seat performance.I would also recommend using studs instead of Bolts( On my set the number 4 bolt hole is obstructed by the header tube and a bolt is physically impossible to get in without cutting the flange). I do unfortunatly have ground clearance issues i have to snake at an angle in and out of most driveways and all speedbumps. Could be mostly due to untouched sagging Springs.
Last edited by XMWZ001; May 7th, 2012 at 04:13 PM. Reason: Poor spelling
#10
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#18
If you get the right headers, clearance should not be an issue. I have Hooker Competition (ceramic coated) on two applications similiar to yours and am extremely happy with both. One is a '69 W-31, the other is a '72 442 350.
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