Gas Tank Testing Questions
#1
Gas Tank Testing Questions
Hello,
1. If the 6" long hard line coming from the fuel tank pickup is loose that mean it needs to be replaced, correct? The ring is tight and locked, it is just the fuel line that is loose.
2. If the pickup is replaced, will a new one for a '70 Cutlass Supreme work (I believe it shares part numbers)?
3. If a pickup with provisions for a fuel return line is capped off (if installed on a car with no fuel return line) will it function correctly?
4. For piece of mind I would like to test the tank from the '68 before installing it to ensure it doesn't leak. Would it be possible to fill it with water and let sit for 2-4 hours, or is this a terrible idea?
5. If water is a terrible idea I would like to pressure test the tank with air. What is the maximum pressure that should be used?
6. If I end up getting a replacement Spectra tank, will a tank from a '70 442 work?
Background:
I replaced the trunk pan on the '68. When I went to reinstall the tank I noticed a thick gooey tar substance (not the gas tank mat) on the top side that may be a patch repair for a hole. Two of the four local radiator shops will clean and pressure test the tank, but they are both estimating $350 plus . I have the tank from my '70 which was a replacement Spectra unit with a new fuel pickup with less than a year's worth of use. Unfortunately the filler neck is 3-4 inches longer than the '68. Rockauto is not showing any tanks for a '68 as of this morning, but there are tanks listed for a '70 442.
Any help is appreciated, it's driving me nuts not driving the car as the downtime keeps dragging on and on.
1. If the 6" long hard line coming from the fuel tank pickup is loose that mean it needs to be replaced, correct? The ring is tight and locked, it is just the fuel line that is loose.
2. If the pickup is replaced, will a new one for a '70 Cutlass Supreme work (I believe it shares part numbers)?
3. If a pickup with provisions for a fuel return line is capped off (if installed on a car with no fuel return line) will it function correctly?
4. For piece of mind I would like to test the tank from the '68 before installing it to ensure it doesn't leak. Would it be possible to fill it with water and let sit for 2-4 hours, or is this a terrible idea?
5. If water is a terrible idea I would like to pressure test the tank with air. What is the maximum pressure that should be used?
6. If I end up getting a replacement Spectra tank, will a tank from a '70 442 work?
Background:
I replaced the trunk pan on the '68. When I went to reinstall the tank I noticed a thick gooey tar substance (not the gas tank mat) on the top side that may be a patch repair for a hole. Two of the four local radiator shops will clean and pressure test the tank, but they are both estimating $350 plus . I have the tank from my '70 which was a replacement Spectra unit with a new fuel pickup with less than a year's worth of use. Unfortunately the filler neck is 3-4 inches longer than the '68. Rockauto is not showing any tanks for a '68 as of this morning, but there are tanks listed for a '70 442.
Any help is appreciated, it's driving me nuts not driving the car as the downtime keeps dragging on and on.
#4
I know that Year One has a tank for a 68. The tank they have is for 68-69. The tank they have for 70 has a different part number. The tanks have the same measurements but the 68-69 has the filler neck and the 70 doesn't come with one from year one. I don't know if this answers your question, but hopefully leads in the right direction. Call up Year One.
#5
If the '70 Spectra tank is dimensionally the same then why don't you find a good used '68 neck and have the radiator shop solder that on in place of the neck currently on your '70 Spectra tank??
You have both tanks right there in front of you....so you should be able to determine if they are the same shape/dimensions/etc. Forget re-using the '68 tank....not worth the money to fix it if the other one will work or you can buy a new one for much less $$
You have both tanks right there in front of you....so you should be able to determine if they are the same shape/dimensions/etc. Forget re-using the '68 tank....not worth the money to fix it if the other one will work or you can buy a new one for much less $$
Last edited by 70Post; March 30th, 2010 at 08:59 PM.
#6
That sounds more like a Re-Nu tank coating price, those guys are nuts.
I had mine boiled out and a pinhole fixed for 75 bucks at a radiator shop.
The goo is probably the tar adhesive that held the pad in place, junk was all over my tank holding factory hunks of 90 pound tarpaper.
I would try to solder the tube back in place if it is the type with a solder joint and just came loose, do it far away from the gas tank.
I know this is an R and R world but things can actually be fixed sometimes.
The service manual says to flush the tank out with hot water before doing any work on it so I would guess that water won't hurt it.
I had mine boiled out and a pinhole fixed for 75 bucks at a radiator shop.
The goo is probably the tar adhesive that held the pad in place, junk was all over my tank holding factory hunks of 90 pound tarpaper.
I would try to solder the tube back in place if it is the type with a solder joint and just came loose, do it far away from the gas tank.
I know this is an R and R world but things can actually be fixed sometimes.
The service manual says to flush the tank out with hot water before doing any work on it so I would guess that water won't hurt it.
Last edited by Bluevista; March 30th, 2010 at 10:10 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
joemo
Other Oldsmobiles
8
September 21st, 2022 04:47 AM
Bluemeanie
Major Builds & Projects
6
February 2nd, 2013 10:02 PM
1carsick
Parts For Sale
6
October 17th, 2012 09:10 AM
Texas442
General Discussion
2
January 30th, 2012 05:36 PM