Fluids for a restoration
November 8th, 2012, 06:40 PM
#1
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 52
Fluids for a restoration
Finally finished the 72 H/O and it will be going to the tuner in a week or so for cranking (1st time since '87!). 
Need recommendations for proper brake fluid- DOT3?, coolant, PS fluid. I cringe thinking about the crappy gas/ethanol that'll be going into that 455, but oh well.
Thanks!
Need recommendations for proper brake fluid- DOT3?, coolant, PS fluid. I cringe thinking about the crappy gas/ethanol that'll be going into that 455, but oh well.Thanks!
November 8th, 2012, 06:58 PM
#2
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Chelmsford, Mass
Posts: 604
Dot-5 is 100% incompatible with Dot3 and Dot4. If you have Dot3 or 4 now, then you must stay with dot 3 or 4. Its ok to mix Dot 3 and 4. Never Mix Dot 5 with 3 or 4, it will turn into sludge in minutes.
As for gas, can you buy Cam-2 in your state? Its 110 octane with pure lead. Costs about $8.49 a gallon in NH. I put in a few gallons every quarter.
As for gas, can you buy Cam-2 in your state? Its 110 octane with pure lead. Costs about $8.49 a gallon in NH. I put in a few gallons every quarter.
November 8th, 2012, 07:39 PM
#3
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
DOT3 or DOT4 shouldn't matter. DOT4 has a slightly higher boiling point, and a slightly higher gel point in extreme cold as well, but you are not likely ever to reach either extreme.
As Miles said, just do NOT use DOT5 / Silicone fluid, unless you want to permanently commit to it. It feels different (spongy), and I personally don't like the feel of it.
Dextron ATF is fine for the power steering.
"Power steering fluid," as purchased at places like NAPA, would be fine, too.
I don't think either one has been shown to be better in any meaningful way.
Coolant - whatever green stuff you can get, doesn't have to be expensive or special.
- Eric
As Miles said, just do NOT use DOT5 / Silicone fluid, unless you want to permanently commit to it. It feels different (spongy), and I personally don't like the feel of it.
Dextron ATF is fine for the power steering.
"Power steering fluid," as purchased at places like NAPA, would be fine, too.
I don't think either one has been shown to be better in any meaningful way.
Coolant - whatever green stuff you can get, doesn't have to be expensive or special.
- Eric
November 8th, 2012, 07:42 PM
#4
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
For PS fluid, just use Dexron auto trans fluid. It's also stated in your owners manual. Coolant? I always liked Prestone. You can buy it now pre-mixed or do it yourself. 50/50
What kind of oil are you using? Or did you go with roller rockers? If you stayed with flat tappets, find some oil with high zddp - like Valvoline VR1
What kind of oil are you using? Or did you go with roller rockers? If you stayed with flat tappets, find some oil with high zddp - like Valvoline VR1
November 9th, 2012, 07:57 AM
#5
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 52
Fuids
Motor was completely gone thru and is set up to run the crap gas we pump these days. It has flat tappets. The crankcase is already full, as is the tranny. There's no fluid at all in the brake system, PS system, or the cooling system. I want to get it right the first time tho!
Thanks to all!
Thanks to all!
November 9th, 2012, 08:22 AM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
Dextron tranny fluid is recommended for the PS by bot the owners manual and by PS pump/gearbox rebuilders.
Use it in your tranny, too.
I always ge tthe straight Prestone green coolant and mixed myself with distilled water. The premixed crap costs the same as the straight and the water is only a buck a gallon.
Brake fluid has been touched on already - I would use 3 or 4.
Oil? Something with higher ZDDP, as regular oil now have very little. Diesel oils have more than regular oils but not as much as they used to. Use the weight as suggested in your owners manual.
Use it in your tranny, too.
I always ge tthe straight Prestone green coolant and mixed myself with distilled water. The premixed crap costs the same as the straight and the water is only a buck a gallon.
Brake fluid has been touched on already - I would use 3 or 4.
Oil? Something with higher ZDDP, as regular oil now have very little. Diesel oils have more than regular oils but not as much as they used to. Use the weight as suggested in your owners manual.
November 9th, 2012, 08:35 AM
#7
Shoveling Snow
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Yoder-Hey-Land
Posts: 2,537
Take a look at this for coolant.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...1q9W9sbBRzwmMQ
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...1q9W9sbBRzwmMQ
November 9th, 2012, 10:34 AM
#9
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 52
November 9th, 2012, 05:33 PM
#11
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Spokane Washington
Posts: 383
No expert here but I like to break in new motors on conventional oil. I run two changes with Castrol GTX and then switch 'em over to synthetic. I dump the first fill around 200-500 miles. Next change when she's logged 1000 or so.
Some may point out to use "dino" oil only. I've never experienced problems using Synth except with tired engines. Please use quality filters and not the orange can of death - Fram.
Some may point out to use "dino" oil only. I've never experienced problems using Synth except with tired engines. Please use quality filters and not the orange can of death - Fram.
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