Hi guys,
I have a 1969 Turbo 350 with about 140,000 miles that has been rebuilt a couple of times once while I've owned it, but it still leaks fluid. I was told by the guy who rebuilt for me that the kick down cable was a 1 year design and he couldn't find a replacement of course this was a few years ago. I am fed up with transmission fluid on the floor in the garage and having to constantly by fluid. It only leaks after sitting for a while like after a day or so. I'm about ready to pull the whole works and throw in a manual, could probably do it for near the same price as a new Turbo 350. If only I could find a decent transmission guy close to me.
Thanks,
Jon

 

Isn't it just the seal on the kickdown cable that leaks?

I know how you feel, mine drips transmission fluid too, I've replaced the pan gasket, the tail shaft seal, the kickdown cable and speedo gear seal.I painted the pan with a nice gray argent color so at least I can follow the drips now, but it's painful.

If I ever need a rebuild, I'm with you, I'll end up converting to a manual because it just isn't worth it. Nothing is cracked, it's just old junk.

 

Olds used the same kickdown cable on all 1969-72 TH350s. Find "a guy" who knows what he's talking about to rebuild your trans. The Olds cable is different from the commonly-available Chevy cable.

 

So, you have a leak and need a cable?

that does not translate to "need a trans", no.

They are difficult to look up, so when I finally found one I wrote it down in my PN database so that I [and you if you get the PN database] can find it with a simple search for "cable, k" which brings up

CABLE, KickdownCable TH350 to firewall, 1971 1972 Cutlass
NAPA part number ATP364 detent cable 1969-72 Cutlass
NAPA part number ATP364 detent cable 1969-72 Cutlass
411340 CABLE, downshift or detent, 69-72 F85 TH350
4210 CABLE, downshift or detent, 69-72 F85 TH350.
Cable runs to FIREWALL and GAS PEDAL; Also on box from Advance Auto:
015-3841-6, 91-32-107254414, SKU=3925188, Barcode 51784
Crossovers: CA-1950, Y-104 [Made in Israel]
Try NAPA part#1-7364 worked on my 1970.

I think you are VASTLY underestimating the cost and time and work involved in making an auto trans car into a manual trans car.

Compare to a $20 cable and 2 hrs of fiddling with it- assuming you are learning the process and take your time.

 

I'm pretty sure it is the kickdown cable seal that is leaking. Yes I know for like $50 tops (being conservative) I can probably fix what is wrong, but I've already had 2 different shops look at it and not be able to put a new cable on or fix the leak. That is why I'm fed up with the transmission on this car. And yes I know it is a job to change from manual to auto I was just venting a little bit. Is Google a good way to find a good transmission shop local to me?
Thanks again,
Jon

 

oh you can spend more on that cable!

http://www.oldsobsolete.com/products...le-nos-411340/

new GM only $225!

I don't see how a trans shop could be "unable" to put that cable in. If they rebuild a trans do they do it in the car and leave the cable attached? Of course not, they disconnect one end or the other of that cable, possibly both.

And reinstall it later.

Therefore they "can" do just that part and change the cable out. So can you. It is one bolt at the lower end, pull out, finagle the end off the z-shaped wire inside the trans.

At the upper end, pinch the adjuster slidey clamp with pliers and take it off [one other type adjuster exists, another story]. Then pinch plastic retainer ears in at firewall and remove upper end.

Reverse to install.
Put slidey adjuster on "too far" then when you depress the gas pedal all the way it will self adjust.

voila.

 

Replacing the seal on the cable would be even simpler and cheaper.

 

Yeah I not super worried about the cable being on or even hooked up I just don't want anymore fluid on the floor. Can I just go to advance and ask for a Turbo 350 kickdown cable seal? I assume it's just an o-ring?
Thanks,
Jon

 

In my experience the seal leaks because the cable sheath/ end is broken.

I suggest you remove the lower end of the cable and inspect it

If it has an O-ring, and it looks bad but cable is ok, take o-ring to store and match it, it will be a common nominal size.

If the cable looks broken, use the PN's above at Advance or your favorite store or in Google to find a matching cable.

Proceed accordingly.

Figure on at least three store runs for ANY auto repair, ever...

 

It is so common of a leak source that many silicone the cable assembly housing/seal into the trans. Not suggesting you do that just saying it's common.

However, there are other potential leak sources like the pan seal so I'm not sure it's the kick cable at all? Degrease and wipe that baby down near sanitary and dry. Observe where the leak is originating inspecting it every few minutes. These are serviceable and a proper shop would nail it probably for around $100 should you want a quick fix.

 

Jon, mine was doing the same...leaking after a day or two....turned out th be the filler tube seal...replaced and no more leak. Figured the torque converter was draining , filling up the pan and coming out the tube seal...