Hey guys I just bought a cutlass supreme, but it has some work to be done on it. I need a carberator, and a Transmission. It is a 350 engine. I found that the carberator isn't too hard to find i've seen it a few places, but i can't seem to find the transmission anywhere. Does anyone know a reliable site that would have a transmission for this 1971 Oldsmobile Cutlass supreme please? I've been looking everywhere and I haven't been able to find it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks much!

 

Welcome to classicoldsmobile.com! I'm a 71 driver myself.

It'd be easier to help if you'd put your location in your profile.

C.J.

 

If you are going bone stock you can buy a rebuilt one at Advance Auto, or Autozone. HOWEVER I would look at how much a local shop charges to rebuild yours. Kits are not that expensive, and it may be a good time to beef it up with a B&M kit during the rebuild.

and that is regardless of where in the world you live...lol

John

 

Thank you for the welcome! and I am from Illinois. Also! a FREEZE PLUG needs to be replaced..now I have heard 2 things from 2 different people on this. One is their cheap..but a lot of labor considering you need to take apart the entire engine..but the other person said..the engine is done with if it needs a new freeze plug...which confused me...because the guy who sold it to me..said it can run...but don't run it long at all otherwise you can ruin the engine since the freeze plug isnt there...So i would assume that as long as i get that fixed..it should be ok..and i won't need a whole new engine? Please tell me I'm right! Thanks again guys

 

If you think the motor is ok otherwise, I'd replace all the freeze plugs and see what's what. Cost should be less than $20. If one has rusted out, probably others are ready to let loose, too. Take a screwdriver or awl, pop through the center of the plug and pry it out. Remove the thermostat, take off the heater hoses and radiator hoses, get your gardenhose and flush the block through every which way through every which port. Use a small piece of 2x4, line up the freeze plug straight and tap it in until the lip is flush with the block. Too far and you'll impede coolant flow. Then flush it again, and put all the hoses and thermoostat back on.

I (sort of) agree with Eightup (sarcasm aside). The reason I asked about your location is that somebody on this board might have a recommendation of a local shop or might have one for sale close to you. You can use anything with a B-O-P (Buick-Olds-Ponitiac) bolt pattern...not Ch#vy. Shipping is expensive on transmissions and there's not much you can't get done locally or do yourself...even for full race. Ask around the local speed shops (not the McAuto Parts stores) for recomendations on a rebuilder.

FWIW, I'd never buy a transmission or engine from a "prebuilder" that I haven't met...like from the McAuto Parts stores.

C.J.

 

Don't forget, if you can go with a turbo 400 go with it. It will last a lifetime with no breakage. I am an expert on the art of breaking turbo 350s and finally switching to a 400. It involves cutting the driveshaft but not a whole lot more. They are as stout as anything ever built. Be it mopar, gm, etc.

 

TH-350s can be built as strong as any TH-400...but it takes QUITE a lot to break a TH-350. (I'm really afraid to ask how you did it.) And there's a LOT less parasytic loss. There's quite a few 455s backed with TH-350s on the street and track. You can add my car to that list in the next 6 months...build in progress on both.

But that's my experience. Your's is obviously different. Not trying to slam ya...k?

C.J.

 

You are right I put those ****** through hell. And they did break. There are plenty of streetable cars running 350s and if that's what you got, run what ya brung!

 

Summit Racing equipment lists turbo 350 and 400's from TCI. Never heard of any issues with their products.

Also, I was curious, I have a Turbo 400 backed up to my 350 ci motor. Is there really much more power loss through the drivetrain with a 400 than a 350?