dirty fuses
July 17th, 2015, 11:27 PM
#4
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Spokane Washington
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Neat, not sure what year car you're dealing with but my '67 fuse block issue may be interesting?
Various circuits were having intermittent cut outs. Pressing on the fuses often healed the issue. I, also concerned about corrosion, discovered the brass clips that grip the fuse were clean but loose! Seems the clips are riveted to the rear block "bus bars" now loose making poor connections. I can't think of a good fix to tighten these mechanical rivet points? Soldering looks also sketchy. The plan is - all circuits will move over to an after-market block with blade fuses. Ugh, old -timey parts can be no fun and gotta go.
Various circuits were having intermittent cut outs. Pressing on the fuses often healed the issue. I, also concerned about corrosion, discovered the brass clips that grip the fuse were clean but loose! Seems the clips are riveted to the rear block "bus bars" now loose making poor connections. I can't think of a good fix to tighten these mechanical rivet points? Soldering looks also sketchy. The plan is - all circuits will move over to an after-market block with blade fuses. Ugh, old -timey parts can be no fun and gotta go.
Last edited by White_Knuckles; July 17th, 2015 at 11:30 PM.
July 18th, 2015, 06:44 AM
#5
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 2,972
Neat, not sure what year car you're dealing with but my '67 fuse block issue may be interesting?
Various circuits were having intermittent cut outs. Pressing on the fuses often healed the issue. I, also concerned about corrosion, discovered the brass clips that grip the fuse were clean but loose! Seems the clips are riveted to the rear block "bus bars" now loose making poor connections. I can't think of a good fix to tighten these mechanical rivet points? Soldering looks also sketchy. The plan is - all circuits will move over to an after-market block with blade fuses. Ugh, old -timey parts can be no fun and gotta go.
Various circuits were having intermittent cut outs. Pressing on the fuses often healed the issue. I, also concerned about corrosion, discovered the brass clips that grip the fuse were clean but loose! Seems the clips are riveted to the rear block "bus bars" now loose making poor connections. I can't think of a good fix to tighten these mechanical rivet points? Soldering looks also sketchy. The plan is - all circuits will move over to an after-market block with blade fuses. Ugh, old -timey parts can be no fun and gotta go.
July 18th, 2015, 08:53 AM
#6
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Location: Spokane Washington
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^ I spotted another of the posters threads and it's an 80's car which wouldn't have the rivet issue.
In my case, all cleaning and soldering would have to be performed on the block where it's hardwired under the dash. Tricky but maybe doable? I'm chucking the block to get newer fuses and gain spare taps. Some of the small sizes of the glass style are getting hard to find. Standard length and mini-standard are still out there but my block has two or more odd sized buggers I've never seen.
In my case, all cleaning and soldering would have to be performed on the block where it's hardwired under the dash. Tricky but maybe doable? I'm chucking the block to get newer fuses and gain spare taps. Some of the small sizes of the glass style are getting hard to find. Standard length and mini-standard are still out there but my block has two or more odd sized buggers I've never seen.
July 18th, 2015, 10:32 AM
#7
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: New Mexico
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^ I spotted another of the posters threads and it's an 80's car which wouldn't have the rivet issue.
In my case, all cleaning and soldering would have to be performed on the block where it's hardwired under the dash. Tricky but maybe doable? I'm chucking the block to get newer fuses and gain spare taps. Some of the small sizes of the glass style are getting hard to find. Standard length and mini-standard are still out there but my block has two or more odd sized buggers I've never seen.
In my case, all cleaning and soldering would have to be performed on the block where it's hardwired under the dash. Tricky but maybe doable? I'm chucking the block to get newer fuses and gain spare taps. Some of the small sizes of the glass style are getting hard to find. Standard length and mini-standard are still out there but my block has two or more odd sized buggers I've never seen.
July 18th, 2015, 10:41 PM
#8
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 150
thanks i think my father has a dremel tool,i will try that tomorow. the wires look fine,the only thing that got hot was the wiper switch and the plug in for the wiper motor. is there any way to bench test the wiper motor,hopefully i won't have to replace it.my car is a 1980 cutlass calais.
August 22nd, 2015, 11:07 AM
#9
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 150
wiper motor works it is just a bad switch. man that wiper is a pain to get out,i might have to get it out again when i took it out last time i took the cover off and a piece of plastic fell out i think it was part of the park switch i guess it is off to pull and save for parts.
September 2nd, 2015, 06:09 AM
#10
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 150
got the switch and the wipers work just won't park i think someone tried to use it when the wipers where frozen to the windsheild.
Last edited by neatolds; September 2nd, 2015 at 06:10 AM. Reason: more info
September 2nd, 2015, 06:12 AM
#11
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
There's an adjustment for that (or sometimes the park piece that fits into the nylon gear is just gummed up).
You need to read the entire section on the 2-speed depressed-park wipers in the FBM (or the CSM in earlier years) and go through its checking procedure - its complicated but manageable.
- Eric
You need to read the entire section on the 2-speed depressed-park wipers in the FBM (or the CSM in earlier years) and go through its checking procedure - its complicated but manageable.
- Eric
September 2nd, 2015, 09:32 AM
#18
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
There are many variations in wiper motor and attached pump.
Depending on your skill set, you may be much better off cleaning and fixing what you have, which fits right in every way. I could have done that on the '66 442- it had dirt and broken wire- in about 3 hrs. But, Noooooooo, the owner buys a "new" one. Pump doesn't fit, wiring differs.... three DAYS to work out all the bugs for one that ain't even correct. *sigh*
Depending on your skill set, you may be much better off cleaning and fixing what you have, which fits right in every way. I could have done that on the '66 442- it had dirt and broken wire- in about 3 hrs. But, Noooooooo, the owner buys a "new" one. Pump doesn't fit, wiring differs.... three DAYS to work out all the bugs for one that ain't even correct. *sigh*
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