nj_cutlass72

I need some advice from you guys, I have a 350 engine in my 72 cutlass, it's a nice cruiser engine but I really wanna have a beast under the hood just in case ie..I wanna step on it at a traffic light.. that being said, I found a big block engine which im willing to invest in myself to learn how to rebuild but before doing so I want to make sure what im working with is worth it....

From the pics and as im told I can make out that it's a 396021 F code up front, the C on the heads, and the 68 F2 on the back side. This is all good from all the posts ive been doing...but please tell me if otherwise...

Unfortunately it's been kept in a leaky garage hence the rust, it was in a 74 omega last and since then sitting but the engine turns... it's really bad shape but can it be revived or worth the effort?

I appreciate the feedback!

svnt442

It's all going to depend on the asking price. To me that's a rebuilder for sure. At the very least it should be torn down and re-gasketed to make sure you don't have any leaks going on. You probably should pull the rod and main caps to inspect the bearings and pull the pistons to have the bores checked for taper and out of round. you want to make sure it's going to be a solid foundation for a street bruiser so don't cut corners. You don't want to get stuck with a cracked block just because you didn't tear into it.

I bought a 455 in 93 that was just the short block and heads with a stock cam and timing chain. I didn't pull the caps and just tossed a mild cam in it, got a J/Y intake and used the pan and carb from my 350 and went with it. One month later I was yanking it back out with a rod knock. Learn from my mistakes....I have.

Redog

For what you are lookng to do, you are going to have to rebuild it anyway. Since your 350 runs, I would just buy this 455 and take my time gathering parts, then when you have efeything you want, start taking everything apart and take the block and crank to the machine shop.

This is what I'm doing with my Alero motor. I since bought a bottom end with 159,000 miles on it. I currently have rods, cam, pushrods, sitting in my closet. The cam is in one of those vaccum bags. I plan on buying pistons with tax return money in 2012 and all I have to get is ARP bolts and some other small stuff and it's off to the machine shop with the bottom end.

As much as I would like to rebuild the motor myself after the machine shop, it's my daily and I'm using the same top end that's in the car now, so I need the car back FAST So it's going to the mech shop for that

joe_padavano

Unless you can put that motor on a stand and hear it run, assume it's a core and adjust price accordingly. It IS a good start. Interesting that it's a 68-69 motor, but has a retrofitted HEI. Also note the heater valve on the block, denoting A/C originally, but the non-A/C alternator bracket on the passenger side head. Clearly this motor has been fooled with.

nj_cutlass72

great feedback guys, if it has a cracked blocked then I guess it's a chance I take and may lose, also Im planning on working until its ready for a swap with my 350.

Joe - is the heater valve an add on or an original unit? I assume it was inserted to gauge temperature? also this engine had an AC originally but now removed due to bracket?

how much should I offer based on a visual and considering the risk?

Pic 2, Also is it me or is there a bending of outer line of header like it was dropped- the area below distributor cap?

joe_padavano

The heater valve was factory-installed on A/C cars to turn off hot water to the heater when the A/C was on MAX cold. The engine (or, at least the intake manifold) came from an A/C car. Since it's a 68-69 motor and it was last installed in a 74 Omega, it's obviously been messed with. Apparently the Omega didn't have A/C and the non-AC alternator bracket was installed at that time.

nj_cutlass72

hi Joe, was there a difference in the big block 455 engines that went into Delta 88 and 442?
the reason why I ask is I found a 1970 delta 88 with E heads.
thx

svnt442

The cam will be different as should the exhaust manifolds, distributor (minor advance differences), the pistons could be of the 9.0:1 variety if it's a 2bbl engine as the 442 would all be the 10.25:1.

But it's a good platform to start with.

nj_cutlass72

if i may dwell or talk to myself, I can update cam and pistons to match 442 specs, and also go 4bbl as well on carb.

should i care much if E heads instead of C? im guessing no!

svnt442

E's are good heads. Don't get hung up on C's.

joe_padavano

Yes, yes, and no.

ah64pilot

15 years ago the going rate for a known GOOD (boiled clean and magna fluxed) block was $1 per cubic inch...$455. Being that it is not known if it's a cracked block or not I wouldn't pay more than that.

I paid $500 for a '70 Cutlass S donor car that had a 455 in it years ago. I pulled the motor, stabbed it with a new carburetor, and ran it...


...for 2 days. The first time I got it on the highway it smoked like Charlie Sheen on a 4 day binge. I pulled the engine with intent to rebuild and the machine shop called to tell me the block was cracked. You have to know that good, running engines USUALLY don't get left to rust away. Be cautious when you buy and be prepared to do a complete overhaul.

There were some good things that came out of buying the $500 donor car..."E" heads, a good (cast iron) intake manifold, and brackets and such. So it wasn't a total waste. So even if the block is junk, the heads may be good

nj_cutlass72

good point, thanks

nj_cutlass72

where on the engine do you see the markings for heads? I found another 445 off a 73 olds 98 and need to ask the seller to find out and he doesnt know,

svnt442

Look above #1 spark plug for a large letter. If that's not visible than look above #8.