77 cutlass
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Registered User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 161
77 cutlass
Okay you guys just a little question. What would it take to get a 77 cutlass to do a burnout/ brake stand? I droped a freshly rebuilt 350 rocket th350 in it and i cant seem to spin the tires. My 72 350 rocket not enough to spin them?
IMAG0072.jpg
IMAG0072.jpg
Registered User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,079
From: Raleigh, NC
Assuming the engine and/or torque convertor is performing normally I would bet your biggest problem is gearing. Late '70s/early 80s cars were NOTORIOUS for rediculously high gearing (numerically low). If your final drive gearing is in the mid 2s it will very difficult to spin the tire(s). Beautiful car though.
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 88
From: Idaho
1) A line lock to the front brakes would do the trick :-)
2) a puddle (or liquid sprayed onto the tires) will also provide a means to get them spinning.
3) a shorter (larger numerical designation) gear ratio in the rear end
4) less traction (harder rubber compound, skinnier tire, etc).
5) ensure timing is appropriate
6) if you have a "new carb" make sure it is jetted for your altitude
.....the list could go on for quite some time.
There are lots of ways to accomplish your goal. I am not trying to be sarcastic, just pointing out that the question is rather vague. As the engine is "freshly built" I would make sure the timing and carburetor are properly set up for the build and your altitude. Note: most carbs are jetted for "typical engine size for carburetor CFM at sea level". this leaves a bit of room for tuning and out of the box carb. basically if you are higher than sea level an out of the box carb will typically need to be jetted down.
2) a puddle (or liquid sprayed onto the tires) will also provide a means to get them spinning.
3) a shorter (larger numerical designation) gear ratio in the rear end
4) less traction (harder rubber compound, skinnier tire, etc).
5) ensure timing is appropriate
6) if you have a "new carb" make sure it is jetted for your altitude
.....the list could go on for quite some time.
There are lots of ways to accomplish your goal. I am not trying to be sarcastic, just pointing out that the question is rather vague. As the engine is "freshly built" I would make sure the timing and carburetor are properly set up for the build and your altitude. Note: most carbs are jetted for "typical engine size for carburetor CFM at sea level". this leaves a bit of room for tuning and out of the box carb. basically if you are higher than sea level an out of the box carb will typically need to be jetted down.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 161
okay then hopefully once I put in duals and 3.42 rear end I can spin them did not no thatmuch bout altitude I will look into that. How much would a line lock cost? That would be pretty fun
Last edited by rayfrausto; Dec 7, 2011 at 04:52 PM.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 88
From: Idaho
If you installed a new carburetor start there with proper tuning. People around here (4,500 ft altitude) love to go buy a new carter/edelbrock/holley carb and throw it on only to find that the car does not perform as expected. In fact I purchased a brand new (ran for 2 days) holley for 60 bucks over exactly this. I have taken more than a handful of the "disappointments" which would not burn the tires after such a modification and put huge smiles on owners faces by adjusting them for the correct amount of fuel required. I find it fun to tune a car, burn someone elses tires off, and have them smile and shake your hand for it :-)
The lower rear gear will help quite a bit but it will cost you engine RPM at cruising speed (on highway). Line lock kits can be found in summit, jegs, etc or you can build your own system. It is just a solenoid activated hydraulic stop valve. Be careful with this and think out your installation and activation of the solenoid carefully as you don't want to accidentally prohibit the brakes from being applied under normal stopping. I would suggest a master arm switch in series with an activation switch if you choose to do this.
The lower rear gear will help quite a bit but it will cost you engine RPM at cruising speed (on highway). Line lock kits can be found in summit, jegs, etc or you can build your own system. It is just a solenoid activated hydraulic stop valve. Be careful with this and think out your installation and activation of the solenoid carefully as you don't want to accidentally prohibit the brakes from being applied under normal stopping. I would suggest a master arm switch in series with an activation switch if you choose to do this.
