'72 Cutlass
May 23rd, 2009, 07:51 PM
#1
Tha' Big Dog
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: The Sooner State
Posts: 104
'72 Cutlass
Hello all and thank you for providing such a wealth of information. Been approved awhile but with work and family, just now making my first post!
Restating the obvious, I am the owner of a 1972 Olds Cutlass S with a 350R, 2bl carb, and dual exhaust. I bought the car from a small car lot with 47k original miles on it, though they had no verification. That was over 11yrs ago and nothing I've experienced with it says any different. The only thing I've done RE: maintainance other than oil changes is replaced the water pump about 7yrs ago.
Whew! That was a tangent! Well I'll stop for now but I will be asking many ?'s RE: the restoration of this classic.
Thanks
Restating the obvious, I am the owner of a 1972 Olds Cutlass S with a 350R, 2bl carb, and dual exhaust. I bought the car from a small car lot with 47k original miles on it, though they had no verification. That was over 11yrs ago and nothing I've experienced with it says any different. The only thing I've done RE: maintainance other than oil changes is replaced the water pump about 7yrs ago.
Whew! That was a tangent! Well I'll stop for now but I will be asking many ?'s RE: the restoration of this classic.
Thanks
May 24th, 2009, 01:22 AM
#3
Tha' Big Dog
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: The Sooner State
Posts: 104
Thanks for the warm welcome. I will post some pic's but first I have to explain... for the first 9yrs I owned it I didn't have a garage to protect it. So it sat in the sun, rain, sleet, snow when I drove it and partially covered when I didn't, and that did bad things to the paint & vinyl top(which is gone now).
What I'm trying to say is that it doesn't look like it did when I bought it(and didn't take pics
). But the body still has NO rust spots and the top only surface rust. As son as I redo the exhaust and front disc-brake conversion I'll be rectifying that situation, too.
Thanks again fot the welcome.
What I'm trying to say is that it doesn't look like it did when I bought it(and didn't take pics
). But the body still has NO rust spots and the top only surface rust. As son as I redo the exhaust and front disc-brake conversion I'll be rectifying that situation, too.Thanks again fot the welcome.
May 29th, 2009, 02:33 PM
#10
Tha' Big Dog
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: The Sooner State
Posts: 104
Finally some pics
After almost a week I'm back to post some pics of the Cutty. Here she is!
Don't know how to make 'em big like yours but you can see that there's not much to do RE: rust, paint prep, etc... That one rust spot is on the hood which seems to be some bondo from a previous paint. I've seen the W-30 ram-air hoods on ebay for around $600. Has anyone had experience with these?
RE: that orange roof... about 6yrs ago the original vinyl top rotted and when it ripped on the freeway at 70+miles per hour, I felt like Superman with my "cape" flying in the wind. After that I hand sanded as best I could and bought what I thought would be a dark rust primer from AutoZone. As you see, it wasn't what I thought but she still looks good!
Don't know how to make 'em big like yours but you can see that there's not much to do RE: rust, paint prep, etc... That one rust spot is on the hood which seems to be some bondo from a previous paint. I've seen the W-30 ram-air hoods on ebay for around $600. Has anyone had experience with these?RE: that orange roof... about 6yrs ago the original vinyl top rotted and when it ripped on the freeway at 70+miles per hour, I felt like Superman with my "cape" flying in the wind.
After that I hand sanded as best I could and bought what I thought would be a dark rust primer from AutoZone. As you see, it wasn't what I thought but she still looks good!
May 30th, 2009, 08:50 AM
#12
Tha' Big Dog
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: The Sooner State
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Thanks for the welcome and the comments. I'm gonna have to redo that roof so that surface rust won't get any worse. I'm not ready financially to paint yet so I think I'll go with a black primer this time.
June 2nd, 2009, 08:44 PM
#13
is Fast Enough ...
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June 2nd, 2009, 10:46 PM
#14
Tha' Big Dog
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: The Sooner State
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Man I hate to sound stupider(?) than I already have, but what are the properties that reside between the image brackets? The pics are stored on my computer. Do I need to upload them somewhere?
June 2nd, 2009, 11:22 PM
#15
is Fast Enough ...
Join Date: Jul 2008
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r-click a photo and you will see properties listed ...
l-click properties and you will see location ...
l-click and drag to highlight ...
copy / paste / add img tags ...
Last edited by mugzilla; June 2nd, 2009 at 11:26 PM.
June 3rd, 2009, 01:29 AM
#16
Tha' Big Dog
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Join Date: May 2009
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Thanks!!
June 3rd, 2009, 07:53 AM
#18
Tha' Big Dog
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: The Sooner State
Posts: 104
SURFACERUST.jpg
and some rust on the hood, which will go B-Buye if I can find a ram-air(W-30,W-31?) type replacement.
ONLYREALRUST.jpg
The only ding is just behind the passenger side door where the wife hit it with my truck door.
ONLYDENTONCAR.jpg
After the new exhaust kit and disc-brake conversion, I plan to take on the paint. As this is a daily driver I don't want to spend $3-4k on a paint job, but she deserves better than Maaco or Earl Scheibe(no dis intended). I'm hoping if I figure out the prep work myself, that will allow me to get a decent spray for $1-2k. What do you think? Here are a couple more shots(I'm hyped on these img tags)
HOOD.jpg
ORHERE.jpg
CUTTYS.jpg
Thanks for looking and helping!
June 3rd, 2009, 08:27 AM
#19
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Korat, Thailand
Posts: 360
All the bright work looks in good condition. About the paint, most of the work for a good paint job is in the prep and if you do all the prep work then you can get away for $1000. I did all the prep work on my 64 Dodge, stripped every piece of chrome and stainless off. Took the engine down to the short block and bagged the engine and stripped every wire off the fire wall and fenders so it would be easy to shoot the engine bay. I took Wenol in the red tube and shined up all the stainless, aluminum parts and the plastic lenses. That stuff does wonders, shines stainless and aluminum to look like chrome and takes the film off the old plastic lens. Then went a little overboard and paid $2000 for paint but it was show quality.
64sideview.jpg
64enginebay.jpg
64sideview.jpg
64enginebay.jpg
June 3rd, 2009, 08:43 AM
#20
Tha' Big Dog
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: The Sooner State
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That's Cool!
That's a great looking paint job, they even sprayed your master cylinder and hood hinges! One question, did you strip it to bare metal? I've been wondering if that's necessary to get that so-deep-you-could-swim-in-it type finish.
June 3rd, 2009, 09:27 AM
#21
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 172
Welcome to the site! Seeing your car gives me flashbacks to 18 months ago when I started my project!
I also agree that you're better off without the vinyl top. Those things are rust magnets.
I also agree that you're better off without the vinyl top. Those things are rust magnets.
Last edited by #1CutlassSupreme; June 3rd, 2009 at 09:30 AM.
June 3rd, 2009, 09:52 AM
#22
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Korat, Thailand
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[quote=A72CUTLAS;84448]That's a great looking paint job, they even sprayed your master cylinder and hood hinges! One question, did you strip it to bare metal? I've been wondering if that's necessary to get that so-deep-you-could-swim-in-it type finish.[/quote
Yea, I told him to spray everything as it all looked like crap under the hood. I figured I could change it later if I wanted. About bare metal. No I did not take it down to bare metal except in a couple spots that need extra attention. But I did block sand the entire car. It's a little different here in Thailand as labor is so cheap that it doesn't pay to do it yourself. A good body man makes about $30 a day not an hour like in the States. The average day laborer makes about $6 a day. A college grad makes about $300 a month starting out. Of course everything is dirt cheap here. Just built a 1600sq/ft 3 bedroom 2 bath house with a 2 car garage for $58,000.
Yea, I told him to spray everything as it all looked like crap under the hood. I figured I could change it later if I wanted. About bare metal. No I did not take it down to bare metal except in a couple spots that need extra attention. But I did block sand the entire car. It's a little different here in Thailand as labor is so cheap that it doesn't pay to do it yourself. A good body man makes about $30 a day not an hour like in the States. The average day laborer makes about $6 a day. A college grad makes about $300 a month starting out. Of course everything is dirt cheap here. Just built a 1600sq/ft 3 bedroom 2 bath house with a 2 car garage for $58,000.
June 3rd, 2009, 04:14 PM
#24
is Fast Enough ...
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: dogtown
Posts: 1,308
All the bright work looks in good condition. About the paint, most of the work for a good paint job is in the prep and if you do all the prep work then you can get away for $1000. I did all the prep work on my 64 Dodge, stripped every piece of chrome and stainless off. Took the engine down to the short block and bagged the engine and stripped every wire off the fire wall and fenders so it would be easy to shoot the engine bay. I took Wenol in the red tube and shined up all the stainless, aluminum parts and the plastic lenses. That stuff does wonders, shines stainless and aluminum to look like chrome and takes the film off the old plastic lens. Then went a little overboard and paid $2000 for paint but it was show quality.
.
June 3rd, 2009, 04:47 PM
#27
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Front bumper
FYI when I was looking through your pics, did you know that you've got the wrong front bumper on the car? It looks like its from a 1970. The proper bumper will make it look better and it will fit the reveal of the grill and stone shield better too.
Front bumpers for 1970 that are in good shape will bring a reasonable price on the market. Maybe worth shopping around.
June 3rd, 2009, 08:45 PM
#29
Tha' Big Dog
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: The Sooner State
Posts: 104
Whoda Thunkit?
Love the car, colors gotta go.
FYI when I was looking through your pics, did you know that you've got the wrong front bumper on the car? It looks like its from a 1970. The proper bumper will make it look better and it will fit the reveal of the grill and stone shield better too.
Front bumpers for 1970 that are in good shape will bring a reasonable price on the market. Maybe worth shopping around.
FYI when I was looking through your pics, did you know that you've got the wrong front bumper on the car? It looks like its from a 1970. The proper bumper will make it look better and it will fit the reveal of the grill and stone shield better too.
Front bumpers for 1970 that are in good shape will bring a reasonable price on the market. Maybe worth shopping around.
).Thanks for that info RE: the bumper. I had no idea it wasn't the proper one for the car!
What is different on the '72? I've always liked the cars that have the round parking/turn signal lights in the front instead of the rectangular ones I have. Could this be because that's what I'm suppose to have?
Anyway, it's in perfect condition no pitting or dents, just the lenses need replacing due to discoloration. Will have to search foer the correct bumper, maybe a straight trade-off?
June 3rd, 2009, 10:52 PM
#30
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Bartlesville, Oklahoma
Posts: 1,142
Thanks for that info RE: the bumper. I had no idea it wasn't the proper one for the car! What is different on the '72? I've always liked the cars that have the round parking/turn signal lights in the front instead of the rectangular ones I have. Could this be because that's what I'm suppose to have? Anyway, it's in perfect condition no pitting or dents, just the lenses need replacing due to discoloration. Will have to search foer the correct bumper, maybe a straight trade-off?
What is different on the '72? I've always liked the cars that have the round parking/turn signal lights in the front instead of the rectangular ones I have. Could this be because that's what I'm suppose to have? Anyway, it's in perfect condition no pitting or dents, just the lenses need replacing due to discoloration. Will have to search foer the correct bumper, maybe a straight trade-off?You need one like this:
Last edited by orange442; June 3rd, 2009 at 10:59 PM.
June 4th, 2009, 10:46 AM
#31
Tha' Big Dog
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: The Sooner State
Posts: 104
Awesome!!
Yesss... I need a car like that! Excuse my drool... thanks for checking to see if you have '72 bumper available, I appreciate it.
That is an awesome resto piece! That being a true 442 I know it came with the monster hood, but are you aware of anyone making a replica? That would be the icing on the cake. I'm a long way from paint, but I think seeing those huge "nostrils" coming up from behind would scare the he77 out of these young ricers!
That is an awesome resto piece! That being a true 442 I know it came with the monster hood, but are you aware of anyone making a replica? That would be the icing on the cake. I'm a long way from paint, but I think seeing those huge "nostrils" coming up from behind would scare the he77 out of these young ricers!
June 5th, 2009, 10:39 AM
#32
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Welcome to the site and yes, your car should have the bumper with the round parking lights to fit correctly. I may have a good one, I will check and let you know.
You need one like this:
Orange 442, nice looking car. What happened to the hood moldings above your grills? If you need them new you'll be glad to know that Fusicks now has them HM7240/1 Hood Moldings 1972 All Cutlass/442 59.50 pair Is your car a W29 option code? I've been toying with buying the 442 grills from Fusicks. Can you post some pics of your car in a new thread? Love to see more of it.
Yesss... I need a car like that! Excuse my drool... thanks for checking to see if you have '72 bumper available, I appreciate it.
That is an awesome resto piece! That being a true 442 I know it came with the monster hood, but are you aware of anyone making a replica? That would be the icing on the cake. I'm a long way from paint, but I think seeing those huge "nostrils" coming up from behind would scare the he77 out of these young ricers!
That is an awesome resto piece! That being a true 442 I know it came with the monster hood, but are you aware of anyone making a replica? That would be the icing on the cake. I'm a long way from paint, but I think seeing those huge "nostrils" coming up from behind would scare the he77 out of these young ricers!
As far as getting resto W-25 Hoods? Yes, Tamraz and Parts Place make them ONLY AS FIBREGLASS, - pretty nice facsmilie but with fitment issues - not the bonded metal fibreglass that GM did. For a proper resto hood, you have to get one used, or pay Thornton's a cool 2399.00. You also need the special air can + setup under the hood for another 400.00.
The cheaper bolt on hoods? Yes they're out there for around 500 bucks or less but they're easy to spot because of fit and no functional air box, especially when the hoods up/ or off like it will be when you're showing off your beast.
Here are a couple of pics head on that show the differences between 1970 (left) and 71/72 (right) BTW the 71/72 use the same front bumper. I know my bumper looks a little low on the pass side middle. I just need to reposition the strut that's holding it and it'll be perfect.
June 5th, 2009, 02:41 PM
#33
Tha' Big Dog
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: The Sooner State
Posts: 104
You've raised a couple questions... Is there a diff between the W-25 and the W-30? And Also if I bought a resto from Taraz, etc... would the airbox fit? As far as car shows and such, really not my deal I just like to drive my car. I know it won't function as well, but I was thinking one of the K&N filters that have the filtered top might work. More thoughts appreciated.
June 5th, 2009, 03:11 PM
#34
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
You've raised a couple questions... Is there a diff between the W-25 and the W-30? And Also if I bought a resto from Taraz, etc... would the airbox fit? As far as car shows and such, really not my deal I just like to drive my car. I know it won't function as well, but I was thinking one of the K&N filters that have the filtered top might work. More thoughts appreciated.
W30 is a package that is added at the factory that included the 455/TH400, FE2 Suspension, W25 Hood and OAI breather system, stripes ,442 badging and dual trumpet exhaust.
The fibreglass hoods from Tamraz and Parts Place DO HAVE a functional air box. But you'll have to change the hood springs to light duty ones to make the hood open and close properly. Apparently the weight of the steel liner on the original hoods + the attaching point being metal allows the use of normal hood springs. Be prepared to spend some time ( a lot) on making the hood fit as best you can. I've also heard that the chrome rear hood molding doesn't fit the fibreglass only hoods that well. Lots more work for you. Price from both of these parts houses is around 560.00.
If you go with an OAI hood, you also need to get the kit to hold down the hood. It includes the chrome lockdowns and the metal brackets that mount to the front of the rad support.
BTW I am not endorsing Tamraz over anyone else, I just used their web pictures to show what I mean.
June 25th, 2009, 06:04 AM
#35
After almost a week I'm back to post some pics of the Cutty. Here she is! Don't know how to make 'em big like yours but you can see that there's not much to do RE: rust, paint prep, etc... That one rust spot is on the hood which seems to be some bondo from a previous paint. I've seen the W-30 ram-air hoods on ebay for around $600. Has anyone had experience with these?
RE: that orange roof... about 6yrs ago the original vinyl top rotted and when it ripped on the freeway at 70+miles per hour, I felt like Superman with my "cape" flying in the wind. After that I hand sanded as best I could and bought what I thought would be a dark rust primer from AutoZone. As you see, it wasn't what I thought but she still looks good!
Don't know how to make 'em big like yours but you can see that there's not much to do RE: rust, paint prep, etc... That one rust spot is on the hood which seems to be some bondo from a previous paint. I've seen the W-30 ram-air hoods on ebay for around $600. Has anyone had experience with these?RE: that orange roof... about 6yrs ago the original vinyl top rotted and when it ripped on the freeway at 70+miles per hour, I felt like Superman with my "cape" flying in the wind.
After that I hand sanded as best I could and bought what I thought would be a dark rust primer from AutoZone. As you see, it wasn't what I thought but she still looks good!
June 25th, 2009, 06:27 AM
#37
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 43
I dont mind the painted hard top look,But if you take it off make sure to get rid of the chrome for the outline of the roof,All Olds peps relize that it was a VT car at one time and still has the chrome molding on....
