Anyone familiar with dash gauge removal? I haven't done it yet on my Cutlass but I need to repair my fuel gauge. Any specialty tools needed? Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated.

 

are you shure its the guage thats bad? If so ,on Bench test are mainly done with a OHM meeter you are testing for resistance .DO Not apply 12 v to this unit ,it will fry like a toaster pluged into 440 VOLTS , Larry

 

I'm going to second what Ozone said. Are you sure your problem is the guage itself and not the sending unit in the tank? Since I don't know what your symptoms are, I'll assume your on the right track. Find a contortionist with small hands, long fingers and lots of patience. Seriously, they are a little trying to get at and it depends on how things have been moved around or what has been added under the dash in the last 37 years. There are two screws that hold the pods in at about the 4:30 and 7:30 positions. That and any electrical connections and the're out. Have fun.
Kevin

 

Thanks guys. My problem is the pins in the back of the gauge are broken and I've got a new circuit board to replace it. I thought removal was easier then that, maybe even from the front with an escusion removal first. Oh well, under the dash I go.

 

I agree with 69oldsguy about being a contortionist, I think I wound up using a short open end wrench I'm pretty sure was 1/4 inch, but may have been 5/16. Once those screws are out I worked it out the front trying not to hang it up on the pad vinyl. If you don't have a Chassis Service Manul for your car yet you might consider it, they show up on ebay from about $25-75. It wouldn't have said you have to go in from the back, but I'm looking at a 1968 manul right now and there's a nice sketch showing where the mounting screws are. John

 

I am going to replace my fuel gauge in a 68 cutlass. Where are the screws located? I appreciate any help you can give

 

I don't know if this helps, but here is a pic of what it looks like back there.

 

Man, that cluster is simple. You lucky dogs.