gofastdontcrash

As the title states when I lock the drivers side door and close it, once the door closes it unlocks. It's not power locks. i tried searching but didn't find any similar problems.

Has anyone experienced this?


A second problem I would like to clear up mainly to get inspected is the parking brake is stuck pulled out. It doesn't feel like it's engaged or at least if it is it's not working. The brake light is on. The previous owner installed kick panels but the speaker appears to be in the way to push the pedal down. And it doesn't move easily.

Octania

That is a feature sir not a flaw

harder to inadvertently lock your keys in

push the button in while closing the door from the outside with lock button down and it should lock ok

as for the park brake, sticky cables are a common problem. Maladjusted perhaps. If the speaker interferes, move the speaker or the pedal to suit

jaunty75

Yes. Everyone who has ever owned a '68 Cutlass!

Many other years and models as well.

I don't have access to a 1968 Owner's Manual, but here's the relevant page out of the '69 Cutlass owner's manual. Note what it says in the middle column in the first paragraph, second sentence, under Door Locks. I imagine similar wording is present in the '68 Owner's Manual. Have you looked at it?

The last year for this, by the way, at least for Oldsmobile, was 1970. For 1971 models, holding in the external plunger while closing the door was no longer required. The door could be locked simply by pushing down the internal lock button and just closing the door.

MDchanic

Yes, Junior, almost every American car of the 1960s and '70s worked this way.
Usually the front doors required holding the button in, and the back doors did not.

I never even thought about this until now.

And, yes, the fancy aftermarket speaker panels are probably interfering with your emergency brake - only way to tell is to have a closer look.

- Eric

gofastdontcrash

Haha embarrassing moment! I guess that is what happens when you buy a car older than you.

Thanks for the tip. I'm sure I will have many more learnings. Like opening the hood haha that was fun too.

I removed the speaker which gave more room to push pedal down and then released it. The kick panel is still in the way. My only concern is getting it inspected. I live in Louisiana so unlikely I will need a parking brake here.

But the light stays on. I sprayed it with wd-40 and will continue for a couple days to see if it loosens. I'll look into relocating it a half inch or so towards passenger side.

Thanks for everyone's help.

MDchanic

The switch on the emergency brake for the light is a very simple affair, and easy to test - remove the wire and see whether the switch connects to ground when the pedal is pushed in 1 notch.

That light is controlled by 2 switches: The emergency brake and another in the brake circuit differential pressure unit - if the pressure in the front and rear circuits is different (as in: you lost the fluid in one circuit), the light comes on.
The problem could be in the differential switch, which is located just under the firewall on the frame on the driver's side.

And I think I speak for everyone when I say that we are always glad to welcome a member who is younger than his car.
Don't feel embarrassed if you don't know something - just ask and we will tell you (though we may laugh as well...).
That being said, it is essential that you get a copy of the Chassis Service Manual, and a very good idea to have the Fisher Body Manual and the Assembly Manual.
You can download these (and many other things) for free from the Automotive History Preservation Society at WildAboutCars.com after payment of about $25 for a one-year membership, but a genuine, original, paper, grease-stained Chassis Service Manual is also invaluable, as a lot is missed in the scans.

Welcome to ClassicOlds.

- Eric

gofastdontcrash

MDChanic thanks for the tips. I don't mind a good laugh.

I seen that site but wasn't sure if it was legit. I will definitely pay my dues and get those manuals.

joe_padavano

What does that mean, exactly? Is the release handle stuck or are you referring to the cable that goes to the rear brakes? If the latter, you either need to adjust the cable (under the car) or you have a cable that is binding in the sheath and needs to be replaced. The BRAKE light will be on unless the pedal is all the way up. Before adjusting anything, try pulling up on the parking brake pedal while pulling the release T-handle out. If the light goes out, the switch is working properly and the e-brake cable is the problem.

Octania

If the cables are the problem, I have found that replacing all the cables- at least the inner/outer type- and fresh springs in the rear brakes- makes for a perfectly operating park brake for not really much money. Three Flexy cables.

Note I did not laugh at you, I just pointed out that it is a feature of these older cars, and w/o reading the manual it would be tough to guess that operational sequence.

When you mention opening the hood are you referring to the lack of release under the dash, or the 1.1" [exaggeration] hood opening that 1968 A-bodies are famous for?

gofastdontcrash

Joe, when I pull the release handle the pedal comes up, but I do not think it is all the way. It seems like it should come up more, but it doesnt feel like the brake is enganging when you put it in drive. It was stiff at first but after spraying with WD-40 and working it a little bit it seemed to want to move more. I will pull the handle and pull up on pedal and see if that helps the light go out. If not, I will try to chanse the wires and see if I can figure it out. I also need to try and move it over so the kick panel does not interfere with its operation.

Well both now that you mention it, but I did search for a release under the dash for a couple minutes lol

68_convert

Had to laugh at the 1.1" hood opening. My fiance drove the cutlass to work. Well it seems that while I was piddling with the car the night before I hit the wires going to the alt and pulled them loose. She got there and the car would not start. Guys that worked there helped her out putting it on a battery charger and plugging back in the alt but it cost one a knot on his head and the other a 3 inch gash on his head. He had even watched the first guy whack himself. I personally have only hit it 40-50 times so I might learn one day.

droldsmorland

To the OP. Welcome and post pics of your sled...All good advice here including purchasing a hard hat. Glad (maybe) I don't have 69-70 tooth to deal with. If your car is a little rusty underneath you might get lucky using penetrating oil such as Kroil or PB Blaster or Castles "Thrust" to free up the cables. WD40 is a great water displacement (WD) solvent but it isn't a good rust penetrant. If your car isn't rusty just pull it all apart clean, lube, reinstall and adjust. This is where a service manual will be helpful.
If you do decide to go with new parts be sure to get "hardware" kits for the front(if their drum) and rear brakes as well. I and others find that when you renew the hardware at each wheel (springs adjusters, anchors etc...the self adjusting feature will now work and the E brake may work a bunch better. If the hardware is in good shape clean it up and lube the backing plate where the shoes rub and apply anti-seize to the star wheel adjuster. Consider replacing the rubber lines on the brake system too. If they are more than 20 years old its likely time to replace them.
tip 1; Brake fluid should be completely bled every other year.
tip 2; take one side apart at a time so you can use the other side for a reference of how it all goes back together.
tip 3; pay attention to the primary and secondary shoe positions. The shorter shoe lining is the primary and it goes towards the front.

joe_padavano

I'm pretty sure that buried in the back of the Owner's Manual is a line that recommends the use of a hard hat anytime one is under the hood of a 68 Cutlass...

gofastdontcrash

I checked the pedal one more time and then unplugged the wire and the light went out but without having much experience with drum brakes the car stops fairly slow. More of a rolling stop. I race motorcycles and therefore am use to and abrupt stop so I'm not sure if brakes could be going out or I am just paranoid. I checked the fluid and it was full on one side and a little low on the other but that wouldn't cause low brake pressure. The brake pedal goes to the flow pretty easy and like I said it has no bite.

I found the owners manual, warranty booklet, and convertible top books a prize to say the least.

gofastdontcrash

Here are some pics. It's a 20 footer but hopefully I can make sure it is mechanically sound and then work on the little things that bug me. Like window off track, carpet, dash, stereo, trim, disc brake conversion, headers, etc

oldcutlass

Looks to be a really nice car!

Sounds like the ebrake mechanism needs a good cleaning, lube and switch adjustment. It's really not an emergency brake but more of a parking brake. Go through and make sure all the shoes on each wheel are adjusted and the wheel cylinders are not leaking. Then adjust your ebrake so that they grab firmly at 1/2 pedal and release fully when you pull the handle.

MDchanic

Drum brakes should feel no different than disc brakes.

Sounds like you've got to pull all those drums, check the linings for wear, and possibly replace the spring / hardware kits and adjust them properly.

- Eric

droldsmorland

Like everyone has mentioned here I think you need to pull all 4 drums, clean, inspect and replace whats worn...including the soft lines to the wheel cylinders. As MD says drums should work like discs up to a certain point. Discs will not fade as soon as drums will with excessive repeated brake applications. But they should have "bite: as you put it. Freshen up the linings, surface the drums, replace the hardware and adjust all 4 corners up. You want just a little even drag on all 4 corners with new (an old) linings. Break in the new linings and readjust after 2-500 miles. With a drum set up, on a daily driver you will see me under it adjusting the shoe to drum gap at least every 6 months. Another tip is once you adjust the drums to where you think they're even take it for a road test, 10 miles or so. Then once back in driveway let it cool then put the car in reverse while pressing the brakes hard for 30- feet or so cycling the pedal. This forces the new or cleaned self adjusters to do their thing. Then jack it up and readjust the drag on a cold drum. Thats it for a while and you should have good brakes.