350 won't start
March 6th, 2014, 07:15 AM
#121
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Location: Malvern, PA (Hometown) Williamsport, PA (College)
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Worked for me every time until now. I blow white smoke out the tailpipe on start up just like any other vehicle. Sometimes it's a lot and it lasts a few minutes, but the Lucas fuel treatment might cause that.
March 8th, 2014, 01:49 PM
#123
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Location: Spokane Washington
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This advice is all over the map from jumping timing to massive loss of compression. Remember the car was running and now simply has a no-start condition. The starter/wiring was clearly affecting the batt or high-current draw. So now it should crank properly right? Well, I've read through this thing and still can't identify the three begging questions.
1) Does it now crank now without loping and stuttering? With a fully charged batt. does it crank for a longer, steady period without the batt seeming like it's dying?
2) Do you have fuel present and the choke closing? (post 106 part three)
3) Does it have spark? (Post 106 part two) Pull a plug wire and connect it to an old plug or yank a sparkplug out for testing. Lay the plug on a bare metal engine location to get the plug body grounded. Look for a valve cover bolt or something to lay it on. Have someone crank over the car while observing if the plug snaps sparks. Don't touch the plug with your hand while cranking! Zaaap. Try a couple ground locations to make sure you found unpainted metal.
These items must be satisfied to move on - period. All other crystal ball speculation is just confusing our friend so let's get the must-know facts before assuming his HEI module died or all the piston rings fell off.
1) Does it now crank now without loping and stuttering? With a fully charged batt. does it crank for a longer, steady period without the batt seeming like it's dying?
2) Do you have fuel present and the choke closing? (post 106 part three)
3) Does it have spark? (Post 106 part two) Pull a plug wire and connect it to an old plug or yank a sparkplug out for testing. Lay the plug on a bare metal engine location to get the plug body grounded. Look for a valve cover bolt or something to lay it on. Have someone crank over the car while observing if the plug snaps sparks. Don't touch the plug with your hand while cranking! Zaaap. Try a couple ground locations to make sure you found unpainted metal.
These items must be satisfied to move on - period. All other crystal ball speculation is just confusing our friend so let's get the must-know facts before assuming his HEI module died or all the piston rings fell off.
Last edited by White_Knuckles; March 8th, 2014 at 02:10 PM.
March 9th, 2014, 03:07 PM
#125
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
"always carry a couple screw drivers and a small hammer in the trunk. I case you need open the butterfly, "
===============
Just so we are ALL aware... let's go over that choke unloader feature again. In order to ensure that the driver can easily cure a flooded engine, there is a feature built into the carb's linkages called the choke unloader. If the choke is closed, then pressing the gas pedal all the way down, one time, and holding it all the way down, forces the choke plate open a little, just like a screwdriver would do if done manually. This allows less choking and more AIR into the carb to offset the excess fuel problem. Every automobile carb I have ever seen has this feature. No need to remove the air cleaner.
Easy- from the sounds of it, if you can find a class on the basics of engine operation, perhaps at the local community college, it would be time and money well spent. I used to be a TA for such a class at a university in CA. We went over the basic Otto cycle, and the Diesel cycle. Covered valves and timing and ignition, and the fuel injected [computerized] systems a little. We went over the basic carb systems in a full teardown and reassembly of a monojet carburetor. The class also had a hands on tech session once or twice a week, culminating in each and every student doing a full teardown and reassembly of a tractor engine. We did not buy new parts or require the engine to run, but the basic process like assembly and how to torque things properly were covered.
===============
Just so we are ALL aware... let's go over that choke unloader feature again. In order to ensure that the driver can easily cure a flooded engine, there is a feature built into the carb's linkages called the choke unloader. If the choke is closed, then pressing the gas pedal all the way down, one time, and holding it all the way down, forces the choke plate open a little, just like a screwdriver would do if done manually. This allows less choking and more AIR into the carb to offset the excess fuel problem. Every automobile carb I have ever seen has this feature. No need to remove the air cleaner.
Easy- from the sounds of it, if you can find a class on the basics of engine operation, perhaps at the local community college, it would be time and money well spent. I used to be a TA for such a class at a university in CA. We went over the basic Otto cycle, and the Diesel cycle. Covered valves and timing and ignition, and the fuel injected [computerized] systems a little. We went over the basic carb systems in a full teardown and reassembly of a monojet carburetor. The class also had a hands on tech session once or twice a week, culminating in each and every student doing a full teardown and reassembly of a tractor engine. We did not buy new parts or require the engine to run, but the basic process like assembly and how to torque things properly were covered.
March 12th, 2014, 12:14 AM
#127
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 401
remove the plugs and let the cyclinders dry out battery sounds low not cranking fast enough sprey some wd 40 into the carb this stuff was 1st usesd to deice air plane wings and to dry up water pull the cap and spray some in there too also wondnt hurt to put a couple of bottles of gas dryer in the tank the more you pump the more gas your shotting in there and check ur gas filter could have frozen water in there hope this helps and put a good charge on the battery
when ever I had a floded carb I held the pedeal to the floor and don't pump the carb
when ever I had a floded carb I held the pedeal to the floor and don't pump the carb
Last edited by johnnyjaws; March 12th, 2014 at 12:16 AM.
March 12th, 2014, 06:29 AM
#128
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 3,900
This advice is all over the map from jumping timing to massive loss of compression. Remember the car was running and now simply has a no-start condition. The starter/wiring was clearly affecting the batt or high-current draw. So now it should crank properly right? Well, I've read through this thing and still can't identify the three begging questions.
1) Does it now crank now without loping and stuttering? With a fully charged batt. does it crank for a longer, steady period without the batt seeming like it's dying?
2) Do you have fuel present and the choke closing? (post 106 part three)
3) Does it have spark? (Post 106 part two) Pull a plug wire and connect it to an old plug or yank a sparkplug out for testing. Lay the plug on a bare metal engine location to get the plug body grounded. Look for a valve cover bolt or something to lay it on. Have someone crank over the car while observing if the plug snaps sparks. Don't touch the plug with your hand while cranking! Zaaap. Try a couple ground locations to make sure you found unpainted metal.
These items must be satisfied to move on - period. All other crystal ball speculation is just confusing our friend so let's get the must-know facts before assuming his HEI module died or all the piston rings fell off.
1) Does it now crank now without loping and stuttering? With a fully charged batt. does it crank for a longer, steady period without the batt seeming like it's dying?
2) Do you have fuel present and the choke closing? (post 106 part three)
3) Does it have spark? (Post 106 part two) Pull a plug wire and connect it to an old plug or yank a sparkplug out for testing. Lay the plug on a bare metal engine location to get the plug body grounded. Look for a valve cover bolt or something to lay it on. Have someone crank over the car while observing if the plug snaps sparks. Don't touch the plug with your hand while cranking! Zaaap. Try a couple ground locations to make sure you found unpainted metal.
These items must be satisfied to move on - period. All other crystal ball speculation is just confusing our friend so let's get the must-know facts before assuming his HEI module died or all the piston rings fell off.
knuckles, I love the 67. And that color....wow!
March 12th, 2014, 06:53 PM
#129
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Location: Malvern, PA (Hometown) Williamsport, PA (College)
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After working on it in the freezing cold all week I had to send it to the shop while I went home for spring break. They haven't called me yet, but usually you need a weeks notice for an appointment there. Been working non stop and still on call now so I can keep funding the project.
The last I tried, after the new power wire and starter, the car turned over much better, but the carb was still misting back slightly and it still was loping a little bit.
Thanks for the advise on the engine course, Octania. The community college I started at has an automotive program so I'll have to check it out.
Two of my peers have suggested to me that if I try adjusting my distributor cap it may help fix my ignition timing. Any truth to this?
As soon as I hear from the mechanic I'll be sure to relay the news.
The last I tried, after the new power wire and starter, the car turned over much better, but the carb was still misting back slightly and it still was loping a little bit.
Thanks for the advise on the engine course, Octania. The community college I started at has an automotive program so I'll have to check it out.
Two of my peers have suggested to me that if I try adjusting my distributor cap it may help fix my ignition timing. Any truth to this?
As soon as I hear from the mechanic I'll be sure to relay the news.
March 12th, 2014, 11:34 PM
#133
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Spokane Washington
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Macadoo >> Thanks, it's actually chunky heavy metal flake like "Gasser-Gold". Some crazy 70's dune buggy, boat color proven to scare people.
Last edited by White_Knuckles; March 12th, 2014 at 11:40 PM.
March 13th, 2014, 12:38 PM
#134
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 3,900
Yes, but not exactly the cap. The entire dist. housing rotates after loosening a clamp. There's more to this movie we're waiting to hear.
Macadoo >> Thanks, it's actually chunky heavy metal flake like "Gasser-Gold". Some crazy 70's dune buggy, boat color proven to scare people.
Macadoo >> Thanks, it's actually chunky heavy metal flake like "Gasser-Gold". Some crazy 70's dune buggy, boat color proven to scare people.
March 13th, 2014, 12:52 PM
#135
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Location: claremont, nc
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OK so let's look at what we know 3 days ago before post was made it was running and driving fine. Did you do anything to it when you shut it off? What was the weather like? Did anything other that the starter sound funky? Take out all your plugs and proceed to crank to blow all the gas out heat up your plugs and put them in. I can't view the video on ye old phone so I can't really help much more
April 3rd, 2014, 08:07 AM
#139
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Location: Malvern, PA (Hometown) Williamsport, PA (College)
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Waiting on a call. Getting new timing gears and chain, new tensionor? pulley, and remanufactured Edelbrock 650 cfm carb with electric choke. It's not gonna be cheap, but it needed to be done.... Well, I'm still questioning if the carb needed to be replaced, but I told him I'm keeping the Q-Jet so it'll be fine.
April 3rd, 2014, 08:35 AM
#140
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Location: Chelmsford, Mass
Posts: 604
Great to hear you are back on the link.
The enquiring minds were chomping on our steering wheels waiting to hear the results.
Did the chain actually slip a tooth?
As for the Carb, I was able to find a local shop that really knew how to build a carb and they rebuilt mine for a whopping $110.00 and had it done in 3 days. It’s been 2 years and the carb still works great.
The enquiring minds were chomping on our steering wheels waiting to hear the results.
Did the chain actually slip a tooth?
As for the Carb, I was able to find a local shop that really knew how to build a carb and they rebuilt mine for a whopping $110.00 and had it done in 3 days. It’s been 2 years and the carb still works great.
April 3rd, 2014, 09:27 AM
#142
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April 3rd, 2014, 11:58 AM
#144
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Location: Malvern, PA (Hometown) Williamsport, PA (College)
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April 3rd, 2014, 03:11 PM
#146
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April 3rd, 2014, 06:24 PM
#147
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Location: Spokane Washington
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Naa, go with the Edelbrock. They're improved design based on a Carter AFB. Very easy to tune. I don't think I'm alone stating Rochester's are miserable. Maybe others have luck with 'em but not me?
I have an Edel 650 on an RPM manifold - 72 Olds 350 with a lumpy cam. That carb hits nicely at wide open throttle never leaning out. You may want to go down to a 600 CFM if your motor is stock?
I have an Edel 650 on an RPM manifold - 72 Olds 350 with a lumpy cam. That carb hits nicely at wide open throttle never leaning out. You may want to go down to a 600 CFM if your motor is stock?
Last edited by White_Knuckles; April 3rd, 2014 at 06:26 PM.
April 3rd, 2014, 07:32 PM
#149
I ran the 1405 and I also ran one of those 650 avs series edelbrock carbs. The 650 did not work very well for me and I had a pretty stout 350. The 650 holley double pumper has worked the best but with the new combo im going to a 750 vac. secondaries. I would go with the 1405 if you have headers. I ran the 1405 I a low 13 sec. 10 to 1 350 . Seemed to feed the engine very well through the rpm and I shifted my 350 @ 6k rpm. The 1405 has a manual choke and is tuned a tad richer than the 1406 and the 1406 has an electric choke. Personally I would stick with the q jet if all it needs is a rebuild.
April 4th, 2014, 07:20 AM
#151
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Stock manifolds. Stock engine as far as I know.
The Edelbrock is on at this point. I'll just have to match it with an RPM Manifold and get that top end now.
Does anybody know if Dean still rebuilds q jets?
For the record I am still waiting on a call from the shop to tell me its done. I'm starting to get a little impatient, things are pretty slow up here.
Good luck with the fire-up when you're ready!
April 5th, 2014, 11:06 AM
#157
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The timing gears were rounded and the chain was slackened. The floats on the Q-Jet are also stuck. He said he set the timing at around 5.5. It kinda sounds like it has a cam in it now. It runs smoother, but is slower without a doubt.
I have yet to compare my before and after mpg's. I have a suspicion they may have gone up.
I want to get new upgraded plug wires today.
Two things still wrong:
1) It is either missing very bad on random occasions, or it is completely stalling out. From complete stop on a hill I got on the gas and it almost cut out.
2) I no longer have full play of my gas pedal. It barely goes past half way and I feel like I'm going to break it. I'll have to mess with this and see how I can get full play.
I have yet to compare my before and after mpg's. I have a suspicion they may have gone up.
I want to get new upgraded plug wires today.
Two things still wrong:
1) It is either missing very bad on random occasions, or it is completely stalling out. From complete stop on a hill I got on the gas and it almost cut out.
2) I no longer have full play of my gas pedal. It barely goes past half way and I feel like I'm going to break it. I'll have to mess with this and see how I can get full play.
April 5th, 2014, 11:43 AM
#158
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Location: Ontario, Canada
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Sounds like you have a vacuum leak in the video. You have the edelbrock 600 on their? You will need an adjustable linkage for your throttle if so .
Last edited by 76olds; April 5th, 2014 at 11:47 AM.
April 6th, 2014, 06:00 AM
#159
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April 6th, 2014, 06:22 AM
#160
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That's the one. Not sure if you have the clearance but I would put a 1" spacer under the carb so the fuel in the bowls don't boil dry after a road trip from the heat of that iron intake . You may need the adjustable throttle cable piece as well instead of installing a new cable. The adjuster has a set screw for adjusting your existing cable. Trim the end of your existing cable slide the adjuster on and tighten, your good to go with full throttle again. Your doing an awesome job easy !! I would get the SS bracket rather than chrome but your choice .
Last edited by 76olds; April 6th, 2014 at 06:29 AM.
