350 Engine Lift Question
#1
350 Engine Lift Question
Did an R&R on the intake manifold gasket & valve cover gaskets. Going to R&R oil pump & R&R rear main seal.
I'm @ TDC w/ distributor removed, radiator support & fan shroud screws removed, oil drained, RH exhaust pipe disconnected & engine mount bolts removed. Ready to remove oil pan. Engine lift is ready to hoist engine up as far as possible to gain access for oil pan removal.
QUESTION: CSM states to "remove crossover pipe..." What crossover pipe?
(1) CSM referring to the transmission cross-member?
(2) CSM referring to a dual exhaust crossover pipe? I've seen pictures (elsewhere) of a dual exhaust crossover pipe - although, I don't believe I've found an OEM dual exhaust crossover pipe in the CSM for this series. Vehicle has dual exhaust Flowmaster. The Flowmaster pictures depict a (welded) crossover pipe for this series application. I don't have a crossover pipe in my current Flowmaster dual exhaust system (which is fine by me - no biggie).
Before I lift the engine I'd appreciate some advice as to what this crossover pipe is the CSM is referring to (p. 6B-18 V-8 ENGINE All Series - 1971 OLDSMOBILE CSM).
I'm @ TDC w/ distributor removed, radiator support & fan shroud screws removed, oil drained, RH exhaust pipe disconnected & engine mount bolts removed. Ready to remove oil pan. Engine lift is ready to hoist engine up as far as possible to gain access for oil pan removal.
QUESTION: CSM states to "remove crossover pipe..." What crossover pipe?
(1) CSM referring to the transmission cross-member?
(2) CSM referring to a dual exhaust crossover pipe? I've seen pictures (elsewhere) of a dual exhaust crossover pipe - although, I don't believe I've found an OEM dual exhaust crossover pipe in the CSM for this series. Vehicle has dual exhaust Flowmaster. The Flowmaster pictures depict a (welded) crossover pipe for this series application. I don't have a crossover pipe in my current Flowmaster dual exhaust system (which is fine by me - no biggie).
Before I lift the engine I'd appreciate some advice as to what this crossover pipe is the CSM is referring to (p. 6B-18 V-8 ENGINE All Series - 1971 OLDSMOBILE CSM).
#3
#4
Most dual exhaust 350 cars used a block off plate to make the pass side exhaust manifold a dual exhaust manifold VS the single exhaust w crossover manifold it started life as. Thornton makes some baby WZ manifolds for the 350 to eliminate the crossover block off set up
#5
Thanks Ranger. Indeed. I wondered about this after purchasing the vehicle. The vehicle listing stated Flowmaster dual exhaust w/ a 442 rear bumper. First time I got under the vehicle & viewed the exhaust I did notice a block off plate on the pass side exhaust manifold. Your comment has now provided some clarity as to for what reason this block off plate exists - it's now become clear. Since I don't know specifically if this dual exhaust is truly a Flowmaster system, it's possible it could have Thornton WZ manifolds as well, for all I know. Baby steps on maintaining/upgrading this vehicle but I'm getting there.
#7
Just a follow-up (sorta) to this post (eating humble pie). I managed to accomplish everything I set out to do by lifting the engine - and, then some. Plus it motivated me to move on to numerous other areas which needed updating.
However, I have to fess up. I really botched the bloody oil pan seal installation - not one-bit happy with my performance in this area. IMO, I used far too much Right Stuff RTV sealant. The cork seal blew out on me on two different attempts during the initial installation & I attempted to 'save' my disaster.
With that said, my next new oil pan gasket arrives Monday. I'm getting pretty darn fast at removing exhaust pipes, starter, motor mount bolts, fan shroud, cleaning oil pan & block seats, and raising the engine. In my defense...well, actually...I have no defense.
However, I have to fess up. I really botched the bloody oil pan seal installation - not one-bit happy with my performance in this area. IMO, I used far too much Right Stuff RTV sealant. The cork seal blew out on me on two different attempts during the initial installation & I attempted to 'save' my disaster.
With that said, my next new oil pan gasket arrives Monday. I'm getting pretty darn fast at removing exhaust pipes, starter, motor mount bolts, fan shroud, cleaning oil pan & block seats, and raising the engine. In my defense...well, actually...I have no defense.
#8
But hey! At least you're an honest man. It might not be right, but after I straighten the flange on the pan I only use a light smear of RTV on the pan side of the gasket - nothing on the block side. The friction on the block side of the gasket keeps it from squirting out. An alternative might be to smear the block side of the gasket and install it, snug the pan, let it sit overnight, then smear the pan side and tighten.
Last edited by 69 Ragtop; January 5th, 2019 at 05:56 PM.
#9
But hey! At least you're an honest man. It might not be right, but after I straighten the flange on the pan I only use a light smear of RTV on the pan side of the gasket - nothing on the block side. The friction on the block side of the gasket keeps it from squirting out. An alternative might be to smear the block side of the gasket and install it, snug the pan, let it sit overnight, then smear the pan side and tighten.
#10
Should not need to RTV all of gasket, use spray tack on pan and one side of gasket. Let it set up and gasket will not move. Use a bit of RTV in the corners of pan for a sure seal on top of gasket and let it skin a little. Are you using a one piece oil pan gasket?
#11
Should not need to RTV all of gasket, use spray tack on pan and one side of gasket. Let it set up and gasket will not move. Use a bit of RTV in the corners of pan for a sure seal on top of gasket and let it skin a little. Are you using a one piece oil pan gasket?
Last edited by Vintage Chief; January 5th, 2019 at 06:25 PM.
#12
I did find a Fel-Pro one-piece rubber gasket which I really liked. I did my best to research it pretty well. It was for Chevy 350 though. Looks identical to the Olds SBO 350 but never found anywhere where it stated it was the same fit for the Olds SBO.
#14
Spray tack is a red spray on permatex product, will keep cork gasket in place. Place heavy beads of RTV in all four corner top and bottom. Tough to put pan up straight with engine in car, good trick is to put some pieces of threaded rod in four corners to guide pan into place.
#15
Which, BTW, I did make a couple of nice small steel dowel rods placed into a couple of the manifold bolt holes so I could drop that beast in dead center and was still a wrenching affair. Should probably had a friend help me with that one, yet the intake manifold gasket appears to have been spot-on.
#16
Should not need to RTV all of gasket, use spray tack on pan and one side of gasket. Let it set up and gasket will not move. Use a bit of RTV in the corners of pan for a sure seal on top of gasket and let it skin a little. Are you using a one piece oil pan gasket?
Also, the one-piece Chevy gasket won't fit the SBO 350.
#17
Thanks for confirming the Chevy gasket won't fit.
#18
Yeah I don't really like the RTV type sealer for flat surfaces like oil pan or Valve covers. I like to use the old school gasket shellac which gets tacky and holds the gasket in place. Work good for me....
#19
#20
Just another follow-up. It's been rather chilly as of late. None-the-less, my 2nd go-around of installing the oil pan gasket was much easier than my first....hmmm.....let's say 'practice run'. Thanks to Chris for the initial suggestion of the http://Permatex 80065 Gasket Sealer; Spray-A-Gasket (R); Aerosol Spray Can; 8 Ounce spray-on sealant. The first time I used the Fel-Pro cork gasket, this second time I used the Fel-Pro rubber/metal gasket (which I liked much better than the cork). I used a slight combination of several different scenarios:
(1) Cut x2 longer (1.75") oil pan bolts as guides;
(2) Used the spray-on sealant on the block and block-side of gasket;
(3) Allowed sealant to set 10 minutes;
(4) Placed gasket on block;
(5) Inserted oil pan bolts and longer guide bolts - tightened oil pan bolts snug;
(6) Allowed gasket to set ~30 minutes & removed oil pan bolts;
(7) Lightly glazed oil pan flange with Ultra-Black RTV - I mean 'lightly' as in rubbed on some RTV as if applying a light film to an oil filter gasket;
(8) Installed oil pan, torqued to value (put the rest of the stuff back on and lowered the engine);
(9) Allowed to set x24 hours;
(10) Filled engine w/ oil, rode tested hard.
Upon return had oil leaking (about 12 drops) from rear of oil pan. Let sit overnight.
Re-tightened oil pan bolts to torque values but added another couple of good old-fashioned SWAG torque values of my own (it's a 47 year old oil pan).
Let sit overnight.
Rode tested hard.
Not a single drop of oil anywhere. Not a single drop of seepage anywhere.
All things considered, I used new Grade 8 bolts, bolt holes were very clean, and IMHO - for a vehicle which has 125K miles, one shouldn't expect original torque values will be adequate on oil pan bolt hole threads which have probably had ~x40 oil changes of oil pan bolts run in/out - those threads don't hold their tightness forever. Much like the transmission oil pan bolt hole threads. I've become quite good at installing heli-coils over the years - lol.
Thanks everyone for the suggestions.
(1) Cut x2 longer (1.75") oil pan bolts as guides;
(2) Used the spray-on sealant on the block and block-side of gasket;
(3) Allowed sealant to set 10 minutes;
(4) Placed gasket on block;
(5) Inserted oil pan bolts and longer guide bolts - tightened oil pan bolts snug;
(6) Allowed gasket to set ~30 minutes & removed oil pan bolts;
(7) Lightly glazed oil pan flange with Ultra-Black RTV - I mean 'lightly' as in rubbed on some RTV as if applying a light film to an oil filter gasket;
(8) Installed oil pan, torqued to value (put the rest of the stuff back on and lowered the engine);
(9) Allowed to set x24 hours;
(10) Filled engine w/ oil, rode tested hard.
Upon return had oil leaking (about 12 drops) from rear of oil pan. Let sit overnight.
Re-tightened oil pan bolts to torque values but added another couple of good old-fashioned SWAG torque values of my own (it's a 47 year old oil pan).
Let sit overnight.
Rode tested hard.
Not a single drop of oil anywhere. Not a single drop of seepage anywhere.
All things considered, I used new Grade 8 bolts, bolt holes were very clean, and IMHO - for a vehicle which has 125K miles, one shouldn't expect original torque values will be adequate on oil pan bolt hole threads which have probably had ~x40 oil changes of oil pan bolts run in/out - those threads don't hold their tightness forever. Much like the transmission oil pan bolt hole threads. I've become quite good at installing heli-coils over the years - lol.
Thanks everyone for the suggestions.
Last edited by Vintage Chief; January 16th, 2019 at 02:16 PM.
#22
Such a Hodge-bodge of misinformation on the Internet. One site says this, another says that, some say nothing at all. Some even say cork when in fact, the seal is not cork but neoprene, instead. Even RA has this gasket description listed incorrectly. There is no cork in this gasket.
This is the one I ordered from RA and the one I received from RA. The side pieces are black neoprene rubber with a full metal interior. Rubber end-pieces are identical to all other types. Very satisfied w/ this gasket set.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=1435198&jsn=1
This is the one I ordered from RA and the one I received from RA. The side pieces are black neoprene rubber with a full metal interior. Rubber end-pieces are identical to all other types. Very satisfied w/ this gasket set.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=1435198&jsn=1
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