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I hoping someone has a 1972 oldsmobile Cutlass S that can take this measurement for me. I am rebuilding the back bottom of my quarter on the drivers side. If can get me the wheel opening size it would be great. I would take from other side but it has the same issue. If you can take from door to back of wheel we'll would be helpful. Thanks!
Welcome to the site. Sorry I don't have a measurement for you, but a tip you may be able to use. A old body guy friend of mine says you can use a front fender to repair your rear quarters. Use the left front for the right rear and right front for left rear. That was easy back in the day, though I guess you don't have extra front fenders now....DOH! Can you buy patch panels?? Good luck and kkep us posted!
Welcome to the site. Sorry I don't have a measurement for you, but a tip you may be able to use. A old body guy friend of mine says you can use a front fender to repair your rear quarters. Use the left front for the right rear and right front for left rear. That was easy back in the day, though I guess you don't have extra front fenders now....DOH! Can you buy patch panels?? Good luck and kkep us posted!
Scott:
If the above statement is true (never heard that before now) I have several boogered up front fenders that have good wheel openings that could be used for patching.
Rodney
I hoping someone has a 1972 oldsmobile Cutlass S that can take this measurement for me. I am rebuilding the back bottom of my quarter on the drivers side. If can get me the wheel opening size it would be great. I would take from other side but it has the same issue. If you can take from door to back of wheel we'll would be helpful. Thanks!
I have a 72 Cutlass S. Used your picture as a reference and got 15 7/8". I have the stainless on the wheel opening so I had to estimate the last part, but it will be darn close. If you have the wheel opening trim, use that as your exact template. Looking at all the cutting and fabricating you're in for, why not just re-skin the quarter and be done with it? Do you also need to redo the outer liners?
Hello Allen,
I have the drivers side re skinned and I just took the measurement from there. I know it's not perfect but at least it will match the drivers side. Oh how I wish they made full quarters from the lead line. The off shore quarters are not perfect by any means and needs a lot of finesse to fit the door and rocker panel lines. I'm pretty confident that I can get this looking good from here.
Sorry, my bad. Clik this link - it's for Cutlass Fastback design. $185 for the quarter skin full length. There are many companies that sell the same product for almost 2x the price.
Sorry, my bad. Clik this link - it's for Cutlass Fastback design. $185 for the quarter skin full length. There are many companies that sell the same product for almost 2x the price.
I wanted one from the lead line which is from the sail panel though. It's already done anyway, I just hd to fabricate the top half. No one makes the full. I believe there is some rule about only being able to make the part 85 percent complete. I appreciate you looking into it though. Going to bookmark that site.
Last edited by Scott Martin; Oct 12, 2020 at 12:48 PM.
I did see a complete set of OEM NOS quarters for the fastback on eBay but they were priced like gold bullion. But they were complete right up to the sail joint and included the entire frame for the door join too. You've done a great job fabricating the rotted area so you should be proud of that. When you shoot it with primer you'll see where it might need some work and that's ok - it gives you a good idea of how the finished product will look. You're close to the finish line now and can use the opening molding to scale any adjustments you might need. Bodyman's hammer works wonders on metal doesn't it?
I did see a complete set of OEM NOS quarters for the fastback on eBay but they were priced like gold bullion. But they were complete right up to the sail joint and included the entire frame for the door join too. You've done a great job fabricating the rotted area so you should be proud of that. When you shoot it with primer you'll see where it might need some work and that's ok - it gives you a good idea of how the finished product will look. You're close to the finish line now and can use the opening molding to scale any adjustments you might need. Bodyman's hammer works wonders on metal doesn't it?
I'll be back at it on Tuesday bit of metal fill and hight build and it should be good.