1971 olds water pump removal
#1
1971 olds water pump removal
Hello i own a 1971 convertible supreme with a 350 in it. Its about time to replace the water pump but i am having trouble, i cant remove the radiator fan, Can anyone offer me some help ?
#2
More info please
What's stopping it. Fan turns, bolt stuck or stripped? If the bolts are out but fan stuck a light tap may work. Don't let it fall into radiator.
Last edited by Gary M; November 8th, 2015 at 02:59 PM.
#3
Start with loosening all the belts and get them out of the way. There should be 4 nuts on the water pump shaft. I think they are 1/2". Get a wrench and put the boxed end on one of the nuts and hold the fan with one hand and crack it loose. Do it three more times and you should be good.
#4
I leave the belts on (and tight) while I break the fan clutch nuts loose. Sometimes it helps to use two wrenches, with the second one being used on an adjacent nut to prevent the water pump/fan from rotating while the first one is used to break the nut loose.
#5
Please elaborate as to what exactly is the holdup.
I have seen them stuck tight to the WP shaft due to oxidation or the like. Sometimes a sharp blade such as a wood chisel can get in there and get the separation started.
protect the radiator with cardboard or the like before you proceed.
you probably CAN, if necessary, leave fan on pump, remove the assembly, and separate the two at the workbench.
Be very cautious especially on your year car about getting the EXACT same water pump. If the casting ID is not the same... and you probably will not find a factory casting anymore... then you need to check the basic features:
1) Length from gasket surface to pulley mount surface. Will be either 5.1, 5.6, or 6.1 inches give or take a little. THIS MUST MATCH EXACTLY and generally falls into "with" or "without" AC [and/or Heavy Duty Cooling (HDC)]. If you get this wrong, the pulleys will not align.... at all.
2) Inlet nipple diameter might be 1-3/4" or 2". If you get the same, then you don't have to change the hose to match. But... might as well do a new hose while you are in there, eh?
3) other details such as proper number of 5/8" bypass/ heater hose nipples can vary, but not usually for your year.
4) Relatively inconsequential is the diameter and construction of the impellor. Factory ones tend to be large or larger and cast iron. Chinesium ones are almost always stamped steel.
I have seen them stuck tight to the WP shaft due to oxidation or the like. Sometimes a sharp blade such as a wood chisel can get in there and get the separation started.
protect the radiator with cardboard or the like before you proceed.
you probably CAN, if necessary, leave fan on pump, remove the assembly, and separate the two at the workbench.
Be very cautious especially on your year car about getting the EXACT same water pump. If the casting ID is not the same... and you probably will not find a factory casting anymore... then you need to check the basic features:
1) Length from gasket surface to pulley mount surface. Will be either 5.1, 5.6, or 6.1 inches give or take a little. THIS MUST MATCH EXACTLY and generally falls into "with" or "without" AC [and/or Heavy Duty Cooling (HDC)]. If you get this wrong, the pulleys will not align.... at all.
2) Inlet nipple diameter might be 1-3/4" or 2". If you get the same, then you don't have to change the hose to match. But... might as well do a new hose while you are in there, eh?
3) other details such as proper number of 5/8" bypass/ heater hose nipples can vary, but not usually for your year.
4) Relatively inconsequential is the diameter and construction of the impellor. Factory ones tend to be large or larger and cast iron. Chinesium ones are almost always stamped steel.
Last edited by Octania; November 8th, 2015 at 05:37 PM.
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