Hey folks,

New member and new cutlass owner here. Just made a bold decision to sell my 2001 ranger edge for cash and buy a 1971 cutlass supreme coupe for $1500.00. This car WILL BE MY DAILY DRIVER. It needs to get me up and back to college 3hrs away for one more year. I'm probably just stating the obvious here, but its a 350 4 barrel. Auto trans. No posi. 41k on the dash but we think it rolled over. Vinyl top was removed. Excellent condition black leather seat was installed. Electronic ignition. It needs a little work, but i think i got a good deal. I hope you all support my decision and help me make my car a little more reliable and road worthy. pics to come soon.

 

Not a real good decision.
Your going to college?

 

Welcome to the site! Please post pictures when you can.

John

 

Yeah, I agree, in this day and age, college is not always a good decision, considering long term debt.

As for the Cutlass, well, you can't got wrong with that.

We've got a lot of information for you here - just tell us what you want to know, and we'll aim the firehose at you.

- Eric

 

Welcome and congrats on your purchase. Post some pic's and let us know what your need.

 

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hope that image works.

I'll get a few more for you tomorrow.

So what she needs: First of all inspection. it has been out since 2/2012. I believe all it will need to pass is the horn to be fixed and the speedo/ odometer doesn't work. the previous owner told me he put a new speedo cable in, but he doesn't think he got it all the way connected in the back.

Does this car stand any chance at passing a tailpipe sniffer emmissions? Other options?

Mechanically the car seems sound. the transmission pan seal is leaking a little, but i think since i started driving it it has been slowing down. It needs a water pump pretty bad from what i can hear and what others tell me. I think the carb needs to be tuned, once it gets good and warm it idles rough when its in drive like its fighting itself? The carb was taken completely apart and cleaned but was never tuned back in exactly.

cosmetically it needs a lot of time and tlc, which will probably be the difficult part for me. It needs paint it has a few minor dents, the chrome bumpers need redone, the carpets have been ripped out. I'm thinking about doing spray on bedliner or rubber floors or both.

It has an fm radio which i like, but i would like to upgrade to a nicer single din cd/ aux headunit if its not going to cause too many issues. Otherwise the speakers are satisfactory for now, they are old, but they all work.

I would also like to get a few gauges, maybe trans temp, oil temp, water temp, and also a tachometer. Also the in dash clock doesn't work I dont think, any suggestions for that?

Again, my immediate goal is to get this thing inspected and highway worthy.

Any suggestions, help, or ideas will be appreciated.

Thanks!

 

What do you care?
What fascist regime do you live in where they emissions test 42 year old cars?

Looks great!

Compare it to the Olds I drove in college (seen here when I was putting a new transmission into it):



Good luck with it!

- Eric

 

Correct me if i'm wrong, but i do not have classic tags, which means it needs to pass emissions.

In my area the emissions test is a tailpipe sniffer, so I will need to pass it.

If i'm confused just let me know

 

You could start by telling us just exactly where it is that you are.

I know of no jurisdictions that emissions test cars this old, but I am not aware of the rules in every US state and foreign country, so there are plenty of places you could be that are different.

Cuba, for instance.

That being said, emissions standards for your car will correspond to 1971 requirements, so should not be difficult to pass with a car that's tuned up properly.

- Eric

 

I would get the horn and speedo fixed first. Give it a tuneup, and do a complete safety check. Get it inspected and go from there. You need to make 2 lists of things to be done, wants and needs.

 

To keep my '72 Cutlass Supreme on the road without classic ("QQ") plates in NJ I needed to pass emissions. That was an adventure!

If you do get QQ plates in NJ, you're only supposed to drive to and from car shows.

 

Jersey is a house of mirrors - you have to pass emissions, but there's no safety inspection, and you can get a $1,000 ticket if your dog isn't wearing a seatbelt.

No, thanks.

As I was saying about fascist regimes...

- Eric

 

Safety stuff first. Inspect the brakes. Make sure the seat belts are not worn or the mount bolts loose. All lamps should function. Check the seat was put in properly not swapped to a leather version with mystery fasteners holding it down.

 

Welcome to CO......

 

Looks like someone decided that a chick magnet was in order for the last year of college. I approve.

As the other guys said, you need to prioritize your needs, wants, and long-term goals.

Seeing as this is going to be a daily driver, you need to address a lot of the things people usually attribute as 'old car charm' - hard starting, smoking, smelling, vibrations, clonking, pulling, lack of brakes, leaning, etc.

Need:
- Brakes + system (out of balance, holes, pinched lines, loose fasteners, leaky power booster, worn calibers or discs, drums out of round, etc)
- Shocks (shocks keep your wheels in contact with the pavement - with air between wheel and pavement, no amount of brakes or horsepower will help you the least bit.)
- Lights (lights are essential, and often indicative of the health of the charging system)
- Fuel system (Drips, leaks, sweating - you're putting thousands of miles on this thing, so any small fault becomes a big fault)
- Steering + alignment (Worn steering can cause the car to be hard to predict and hard to aim, while a faulty alignment can be anywhere from annoying to crippling for the drivability of the car).

Want
- Working speedo (How fast you're going is just nice.)
- Charging system (Put an ammeter between the positive post on your battery and the positive lead that was connected to it - big red wire. If it registers any amount of amperage, you have a short somewhere, which will drain your car and leave you needing to be jumped. Not fun with a daily driver.)
- Carb tune (start with the tune in the chassis service manual - you DO have one, right? If not, get one.)

Nice:
- Paint
- Interior
- Wunderbaum

 

Welcome to the Group:
Here is a link about Gauges.

A Rally pack gauge set will look like original and cost aprox $700 with cables and sensors.
A simple triple cluster will cost aprox $150.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...gauge-set.html

 

$150?!?

Where did you get that info?

A quick look at Advance Auto Parts shows a 2" gauge set for $40 and a 1 1/2" gauge set for $34.

Over the past two years, I have personally bought three different triple gauge sets, new in the box, at flea markets for $10-15 each.

- Eric

 

Ok, lets say Less than $150. I added in the cost of 3 gauges (Suggested Retail Prices, New, Plus shipping), mounting bracket, Crimp connectors and a few rolls of colored wires from Radio Shack.
I was also referring to the more expensive gauges that do not use the "Liquid filled tubes".

 

These gauges have all of that included (except for the rolls of wire, which you don't need) for less than $30 at .
As for more expensive gauges, sure, there are plenty, but why would a college student with limited funds want to pop for high-ticket gauges?

- Eric

 

We don't know if you are confused or not, since we don't know where you are trying to register the car. Emissions test requirements vary by state, county, and even city. There are also requirements beyond just the sniffer test, since that only tests vehicles at one or two specific operating conditions, and cannot prove that the factory emissions equipement is fully functional, so a visual inspection may also be required. Again, the need for this will vary depending on location. Unless you live in NJ, what is required there is irrelevant. Every state DMV has a website now that will list the emissions test requirements (if any) for your location.

 

I live in Malvern,Pa in the county of Chester. on Friday I am taking the car to an honest mechanic that I have been doing business with for 5 years. Hopefully he is able to inspect it and get it street legal.

I have a few quick questions:

1. How do I get to the speedo cable? Just pull the cluster out? Also, is the odometer connected to the speedo cable?

2. Where is the horn?

3. How do I check the transmission fluid?

4. When its in park it idles "fine"...When its in reverse or drive it starts to wobble some and really wants tries to move forward. My question is to what extent is this "normal"?

5. And finally, NO I do not have any manuals. What do you recommend?

 

You can get factory service manuals, wiring diagrams, vacuum diagrams etc. at http://wildaboutcarsonline.com/. Sign up, it is free, TONS of information.

 

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So you don't need to pass emissions.

ahs.dep..pa.gov says:
You're in college. You could have googled this yourself.



"Honest mechanic" = Oxymoron.



I can't give you a Cutlass-specific answer, but, in general, either reach up there and push it on, or pull the cluster out a bit, reach behind it, and push it on.
If pulling out the cluster, sometimes it helps to detach the transmission end of the cable so you can pull the whole thing out further.

Yes, the odometer, being a part of the speedometer assembly, is connected to the speedo cable.



It's that button in the center of your steering wheel.


You mean the thing that makes noise?
The horns are bolted to the core support in front of the radiator, behind the grille.

1. Warm up transmission (Drive around the block).
2. Run through all gears.
3. Place in Park.
4. Leave running.
5. Get out of car.
6. Open hood.
7. Pull out transmission dipstick.
8. Wipe off transmission dipstick.
9. Reinsert transmission dipstick.
10. Pull out transmission dipstick.
11. Read level.

Very subjective question.
You may be describing normal behavior, or the "wobbling" may indicate you may need a tune-up.
All automatic transmission cars will creep in Drive.



The Chassis Service Manual and the Fisher Body Manual.
Buy them on eBay or a similar place, and also download them for free from WildAboutCars.

- Eric

 

The transmission dipstick is on the passenger side of the car, directly behind the engine, sticking up between the engine and the firewall. It's visible in your picture, with spark plug wires running behind it.

The horn wire passes through the horn relay, also called the junction block, on the driver's side fender, in the engine compartment. It's a small oblong metal housing with three or four red wires joined on a screw, and a few other wires sticking into it in the bottom.

The idle should drop from 800 or so in Park to 650 in Drive, when you're on the brake. If it drops lower than that, you're going to experience shaking. Your honest mechanic should be able to do a tune up, especially if you print the appropriate pages from chapter six of the chassis service manual for him. It's also easy to do yourself, if you can access a tachometer. Shaking COULD be other things, but start with the tune up.

 

Yes, i go to Pennsylvania College of Technology for a bachelors in HVAC design technology. I have been working in the field seasonally for about a year now. I am still learning, but i have a pretty good grasp on mechanical systems... i just lack in experience at this point.

You have all been very helpful so far so thanks for that.

I'm going to see if tonight after work i can get the speedo and horn working.

About the trans because i realize it was a simple question... i looked for the dipstick, but i didnt see it. Also, this is the first vehicle with an auto trans. I'm not really a huge fan of autos but i made the sacrifice. Point is i'm a manual guy because they are simple and i dont know much about autos so i might need some guidance.

I'll keep everyone updated.

Cheers!

 

Anyone in his 20s whose never had an auto trans is alright in my book.

You're a rare breed these days.

- Eric

 

looks like a good fixer upper. congrats . hope you can afford to own it, if not i am sure someone would be interested in taking it off your hands.

 

I know that feeling. Working on a five speed conversion on the sideline because if that very fact.

 

You are going to need a few common diagnostic tools to add to your tool box.
A Digital volt meter with built-in Tachometer and Dwell meter. I keep one in my car at all times.
The cost at a local auto store usually less than $100. It’s used for all things electrical, including Engine Tuning (RPM and Dwell) adjustments.

A Dash mounted tachometer is great too, but you will still need one under hood while you are adjust the engine.

Vacuum gauge:
I found acheap 3” gauge at a local store and some extra tubing for less than $20.00.

A vacuum gauge that you can connect under the hood while you are debugging your leaking vacuum system or adjusting the carburetor is a must have.

You cannot fine-tune the carburetor until your Ignition system (timing/ dwell) and vacuum systems are in good working order.

All prices are approximate and if you shop around you can do better.

Meter example:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_automotive-digital-multimeter-with-inductive-rpm-pick-up-and-temperature-probe-mountain_22989177-p?searchTerm=digital

As for your Transmission question:
The Rocket 350 is a big engine and it will act differently than a smaller 200 inch engine with automatic. The car will move while idling if you take your foot off the brake (check you’re RPM). When Warm, and running good, the idle in Park or Neutral should be approximately 700-800 RPM (Stock unmodified engine). When you shift into Drive (foot on brake), the RPM will drop to approximately 650 RPM.

Keep your foot on the break shifting into gear from Park/Neutral.

 

He has electronic ignition, so there's no need to adjust dwell, Miles71. I say this merely so we don't confuse him.

 

I believe "wobbling" refers to the idle kicking around? The OP mentions tuning the carb may correct this. A conventional carb only allows the idle air mixture screws to be adjusted from outside the carb. These are accessed by removing the air-cleaner and identified by having two screws with springs on the shafts on the front of the carb.

Carefully turn both screws in a half turn at a time counting the total turns until the screw gently stops. They should be somewhere around two total turns to seat them. Back them out to 1 and 1/2 turns each. Start the car (in Park) and back each out a quarter turn at a time. Note if the idle picks up or remains the same. When you're out too far the idle will start hunting unevenly as to lean. Turn them back inward a quarter turn at a time to where the idle stabilizes at the highest speed. Internal float adjustment is tricky and requires disassembling. Jetting should be fine and not need changing unless it's a different carb. There could be a worn and/or dirt issue that will make for a carb rebuild need.

From my experience, rough idle causing the car to kick around is not a carb issue. It's ignition related such as poor plugs or wires. Try adjusting the carb idle speed set screw located on the carb where the throttle arm stop is. Lower the idle speed down to simulate it's in gear. Does the car idle smoothly? Now raise the idle speed back up, block the wheels and set the E-brake. Put the thing in drive and observer the idle behavior. Does it get worse now kicking and stumbling? Report back your test results.

 

Left work today while it was raining pretty hard. I was doing fine, then all of a sudden the whole electrical system shut down and the thing broke down. I was able to stop it but it was at 5pm on a busy road. Luckily it broke down directly across from a local mechanic's shop who coincidentally knows the original owner of the Cutlass. I was showing them where it was stuck when suddenly the lights came back on. I ran in and started it and they told me to pull it in. Turns out one of the spark plug wires was arcing to the air filter and I believe that was causing the wobble. They also changed a small hose that I guess was loose and moved a few other things around all in a matter of seconds. I pulled out and it seems to idle a lot smoother. Sweet.

Went home and started messing with the horn. The relay was clicking but nothing was happening. I pulled the horn wire out and stuck it back in once. Still nothing. Drove and got my multimeter then went and picked up my friend. When I was showing him that the horn doesn't work...It worked. Sounds beautiful.

I love this car.

 

All very nice, but what caused it to suddenly lose all electrical power while driving?

- Eric

 

Get ready for several of theses events especially when you least need it to happen on your way to school!

 

Looks like one heck of a deal for $1500. BUT old cars are old cars. Must us older guys have regular daily drivers and don't depend on our old ones so much. Once you get it sorted out it will maybe be dependable or maybe not so much... Good luck. I like your attitude and love to see young guys like you messing with old Oldsmobiles. But you need dependable transportation to get to college in.

 

I think she was tired. Then once she was good to go she opened her eyes to let me know...

Really tho, my alternator gets pretty hot. I could have been drawing too many amps with the headlights, radio, and wipers all going.

Also the negative battery terminal was very loose.

These two things mixed with my arcing plug wire it doesn't surprise me she quit mid stroke.

 

An arcing plug wire will not strand you, it will just annoy you.

You were exceptionally lucky that when your car just quit on you with no warning you were not is a hurry to get somewhere, and were in front of a service station owned by people you know, who are competent and were willing to help you on the spot.

You had your warning, and it was more warning than most of us get.
If you are going to use this car as a daily driver, you need to figure out why your car stopped dead, and fix it, or the next time will not be so cinematically convenient.

- Eric

 

Wet distributor Tip:
Since you have an after-market electronic ignition system you may not ever encounter this problem,
but it is something to be aware of and a good tip for other newcomers. The CS with a stock point’s distributor
can collect condensation moisture inside the distributor.
This can happen after hitting a big puddle or heavy rain storm or if you have washed your engine recently.
Water pouring off the back of the intake manifold down the back of a hot engine by the distributor will steam up.
The Steam will condense inside the distributor cap. Once there is enough moisture inside the cap,
the engine will begin to misfire and stall.
The fix is easy, once you recognize the symptoms, wet engine, Steam, engine running good then misfires
and quits unexpectedly. Just pull out your big flat tip screwdriver and pop off the distributor cap
and wipe up the moisture inside with a dry towel.
I have had this problem happen on all of my CS. Especially after an engine cleaning, or after parking a
soaked hot car after hitting a big puddle.

Rain happens.

Alternator:
You car has an Air-condition system. This means you should have a 63 amp alternator (external voltage regulator).
If you get a chance to pull the Alternator for cleaning, etc, check the Amp stamps on the Under-side of the Alternator.
You should see the number 63. If you have the smaller 40 something alternator, then replace it with a higher capacity.
The negative battery able is easy to replace and can be found at most auto stores.
The positive cable is much longer / more costly to replace.
When you do replace those cables, use the same factory gauge or thicker.

You car looks like a keeper.

My junk college car was a 71 Holiday 4-door.
The car developed a stuck intake value on the #5 Cylinder Junior year in college (previous owner did not use oil).
Since I did not have money for a valve job, I just removed the push rod for that cylinder and retuned the carburetor.
I drove it as a 7-cylander for the next 2 years, 60 miles a day.