Greetings everyone.
I've already posted a few introduction photos of my Oldsmobile in the new user forum, but I was able to take some more recent ones to post today, as well as show a little more of the progress I've tried to make.
I was going to post this in the Repair/Major build & projects section, but I don't think my car would qualify under a major project, as everything I'm doing is nowhere as intensive, at least I think it isn't.

Anyways, here are more pictures of my 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S sport coupe. My plans are to keep this car so I could occasionally use it as a normal daily driver.
While it is not a factory Ebony black car, I do like the color as is, and intend to keep it black. The interior was done by the previous owner, and while not exactly factory (door panels & stitching), it is close enough for me.
I would say that the car was really well equipped from the factory for a mid-range Cutlass, as it has Air Conditioning, a rear defroster, Power brakes, Power Steering, front disc brakes, and the automatic console shifter, which all seem originally would have come with the car when new.

So far, besides the transmission replacement, I have done the following work:

Replaced the glove box door & lock assembly (the old one was cracked & the lock did not work with my key)
Replaced the instrument panel cover with a NOS one with proper wood veneer which was not faded.
Replaced the missing rear view mirror with a NOS made in USA one.
Replaced the transmission shift cable & neutral safety switch, which I had to remove the console for.
I found a set of 4x 15" wheels which seemed to be Pontiac rally wheels at a local junkyard, and I was able to buy all 4 for $60. My car had some chrome aftermarket 14" wheels on it, which I felt looked odd. While I wanted the 15" Oldsmobile Rally/Super Stock wheels, they seem to be rare and expensive. The Pontiac wheels will be alright in the meantime.



Work I still have to do besides the engine seals:

Install the headliner. The car came with a new one which wasn't installed, so I'll have to research how to attach it to the steel bows.
My driver's side front door window crank shaft is very loose and the handle won't stay on the shaft, even with the clip on. I may need to find a new regulator gear/assembly.
My turn signals/brake lights/reverse lights do not work. The neutral safety switch I replaced may have fix the reverse lights issue, but I have not yet checked.
The headlights/horn/brights work fine, but the power door locks don't.
I have a new aluminium radiator to replace the old one, which leaks. I may eventually have it re-cored.
The A/C lines were cut, and the compressor was missing. I managed to find a similar Frigidaire compressor off of a Cadillac 472, but I need to buy some new lines/hoses.
There is some surface rust on the rear package shelf near the rear windshield. While it hasn't penetrated anywhere, I do need to use sandpaper and rustoleum to remove it all.
I need to find a way to install the plastic cover for my shifter, but I cannot get it past the "T" shape of the shift lever. The assembly manual shows a pin to disassemble it, but I haven't attempted it yet.
The carburetor is currently a Holley QFT 850 CFM. I am planing to swap it to a 650CFM Edelbrock carburetor, and also replace the rubber fuel lines at the front. The metal sections of fuel line under the car, and the fuel tank, are all fortunately rust free.

There are quite a few more things, such as my rear bumper being slightly bent, but I'll get to them eventually.
I'll probably ask more technical questions in their respective parts of the forum as I get to all these things which need attention, which may take time as it is really cold here right now.

 

As for the brake lights, turn signals etc I would definitely check your ground. Just a bit of corrosion will cause havoc.

For the a/c I used oldairproducts with great results. They have factory replacement parts and also POA valve upgrades if you're looking to convert it from R-12 freon. I personally kept mine R-12 as it was available at a reasonable price and I feel that it cools much better with no additional cost. Here;s the link for their website.

https://www.oldairproducts.com/

Mike

 

Nice, my guess the body change on the Supreme for 1970 had a lot to do with that. I'm sure many of whom that preferred the fastback body style over the new sedate looking but beautiful Supreme bodystyle. Wanted their fastback well rounded.

Unless you already have the Edelbrock, you may want to rethink that. Most that go this route are not satisfied. Edelbrock carbs while pretty generally leave customers disappointed.

 

Haven’t had an opportunity to use these in a while!!

 

Thanks for the oldairproducts referral.

 

So, I had decided to switch to the Edelbrock carburetor for a few reasons:

1) I already have it laying around in the box, brand new & unused.
2) My Olds 350 has an Edelbrock intake on it (I am unsure if I could have bolted a Quadrajet to that).
3) The Holley currently on the car is acting oddly & I am unsure of how to tune or adjust it; I am very unfamiliar with it, whereas I am more familiar with Edelbrocks.
4) Ideally, I would like to get a Quadrajet, but finding a rebuilt one is not cheap, plus I might need to source an OEM intake for the engine.

To be honest, I was unaware of any widespread/general dissatisfaction with Edelbrock carburetors, but my experience here is a bit limited.

 

What are the general issues the Edelbrocks have operating with stock engines (street/daily driver usage, not high-end output type stuff)?