My setup
June 25th, 2009, 04:11 PM
#1
car guy
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 5,662
My setup
A lot of people have asked me for details of my suspension. I have always been a street strip straight line guy so about 2 years ago I started researching A-body suspension.
I don't deserve any credit for what I did. I just coppied what has worked for others. Lots of guys on Chevelles.com are using the same setup and having good results. The hardest part was getting what I wanted and not going overkill. Just like bigger is not always better for cam shafts and carburators it also applies to suspension parts , springs, and sway bars.
In my mind I wanted a car that drives like a modern sports sedan. I'm not going to run the cones every weekend but if I have to dodge a ladder in the middle of the highway I wanted to do so without scaping the door handles on the pavment.
The best thing I did was make a call to Marcus at SC&C based on many many recomendations.
http://www.scandc.com/faqs.htm
I told him what I wanted out of my car. He told me what I needed on several occasions even down selling me or telling me to buy something someone else carried because it would fit my needs better even though he carried a competing product. I followed all his suggestions and ended up with a car that is even more than my expectations.
springs- Eibach front was perfect for the low height I wanted but had to cut about 1/2 coil
in back and will probably cut another 1/4 coil for perfection
shocks- Bilstein hot rod shocks sold by OPG same as thier other shocks but painted black with black boots instead oof yellow with blue boots
front upper control arms and ball joints- stage II + kit consists of Howe tall ball joints and SPC fully adjustable upper control arms
steering box - Lee custom 12.7:1 bluprinted box 670 series (drives like a rack)
front bar- stock bar from a 66 GTO with rubber bushings and urethane end links
rear bar- OPG 1" aftermarket bar
rear control arms- Currietrac upper and lower arms with johnny joints. Allows full articulation with no binding
rear axle bushings- stock replacement rubber
I don't deserve any credit for what I did. I just coppied what has worked for others. Lots of guys on Chevelles.com are using the same setup and having good results. The hardest part was getting what I wanted and not going overkill. Just like bigger is not always better for cam shafts and carburators it also applies to suspension parts , springs, and sway bars.
In my mind I wanted a car that drives like a modern sports sedan. I'm not going to run the cones every weekend but if I have to dodge a ladder in the middle of the highway I wanted to do so without scaping the door handles on the pavment.
The best thing I did was make a call to Marcus at SC&C based on many many recomendations.
http://www.scandc.com/faqs.htm
I told him what I wanted out of my car. He told me what I needed on several occasions even down selling me or telling me to buy something someone else carried because it would fit my needs better even though he carried a competing product. I followed all his suggestions and ended up with a car that is even more than my expectations.
springs- Eibach front was perfect for the low height I wanted but had to cut about 1/2 coil
in back and will probably cut another 1/4 coil for perfection
shocks- Bilstein hot rod shocks sold by OPG same as thier other shocks but painted black with black boots instead oof yellow with blue boots
front upper control arms and ball joints- stage II + kit consists of Howe tall ball joints and SPC fully adjustable upper control arms
steering box - Lee custom 12.7:1 bluprinted box 670 series (drives like a rack)
front bar- stock bar from a 66 GTO with rubber bushings and urethane end links
rear bar- OPG 1" aftermarket bar
rear control arms- Currietrac upper and lower arms with johnny joints. Allows full articulation with no binding
rear axle bushings- stock replacement rubber
June 25th, 2009, 04:43 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 110
Did you also replace the rest of the front suspension like the tie rods and tie rod ends center steering arm or whatever that thing is called? I want to do something very similar to your setup without going overboard, but I also want to make sure the rest of the parts get replaced as well since I'm going to have it all apart.
Last edited by BerBer5985; June 25th, 2009 at 04:44 PM. Reason: Needed to add something
June 25th, 2009, 04:46 PM
#3
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 110
Oh, and I'm sorry but one more question for you....I want to do disc brake upgrades on all 4 corners and maybe try the 2" drop spindles with the package they offer. Would that be a good route to go for lowering the vehicle, or would getting stock spindles and then lowering springs be the best route or a combination of both?
June 25th, 2009, 05:44 PM
#4
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Dallas TX
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Oh, and I'm sorry but one more question for you....I want to do disc brake upgrades on all 4 corners and maybe try the 2" drop spindles with the package they offer. Would that be a good route to go for lowering the vehicle, or would getting stock spindles and then lowering springs be the best route or a combination of both?
June 27th, 2009, 07:19 AM
#9
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Location: Dallas TX
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Disk brake spindles are fine but I an not sure if 15" wheels will work or not. I would put a call in to Mark. He is sometimes hard to get ahold of but persistance is well worth it. Set aside at least 30 min to talk to him though. There are no short conversiontions with him.
June 27th, 2009, 07:23 AM
#10
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