I have a jeep that is not charging . I did away with the fuel injection and electronic ignition bypassing the computer it runs better than it ever did. But isn't charging. I just had the altanator rebuilt. So I'm thinking that the computer thinks that the engine isn't running and not letting it charge. I had the same problem with the fuel pump. You see one of dodges worst ideas was to put the regulator in the computer. So now I need help as to how to hook up a regulator and bypass the computer. Any help would be appreciated.
Railguy

 

Why not use and older alternator with a built in regulator, change the pulley, and wire it the old fashioned way.

 

This is an AMC engine there would be to much to change. There isn't even any way to tighten tell belt. Altanators used to have the regulator separate.
Railguy

 

It's possible that the regulator is bad and the only way to replace it is replace the computer. Then I'm told you have to get it "rekeyed"at dealership at cost of $100 to $150. My brother had to do it a couple times. Definitely not one of dodges better ideas.
Railguy

 

What year and model is the Jeep?

 

1990 wrangler with a 94 engine 4 cylinder 2.5 amc. Out of another wrangler
Railguy

 

There has to be an earlier-spec alternator that will bolt on.

Also, if memory serves, I have seen a pinout of these, and there are a couple of terminals labeled for a regulator - you may be able to connect a separate regulator to the alternator through these.

I'd ask a MoPar guy.

- Eric

 

I'm getting a little under 12 volts on the battery with it running . Factory volt meter in dish reads the Same even when I Rev the engine there's no change .so am I correct in thinking thar it's not charging.
Railguy

 

Yup. She's a no work.

- Eric

 

I don't know very much at all about it but it sure seems like it wouldn't be hard at all to wire up a regulator.
Railguy

 

Is the alternator and ecm from a 90 or 94? I found some diagrams and it shows maxi fuses or links in line.
http://www.harostreetmedia.net/iwant...ams-copy-1.pdf

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...Engine_4.2.pdf

 

I'm pretty sure it's from the 94 because the 90 was an iron duke and wouldn't fit on the amc .computer has a date of 08 04 93 is that what your calling the ecm?
Railguy

 

https://alternatorparts.com/external...nator-kit.html
This is what I need but I still think someone on this site knows how to do it without the kit.
Railguy

 

The other way is to find a 1 wire alternator, change the pulley, and put a piece of tape over any lights that stay on. I actually like the kit you posted and its not very hard to install from the looks of it. Its an old style Mopar voltage regulator and they are very dependable.

 

I am guessing you have the Denso style alternator. Is this correct? I think it may be possible that there were also a Mopar style and a Bosch style for that. In any case there are a couple of ways to do it. One is using the regulator shown in the kit, or there is also a regulator you can put on the back of the alternator. The alternator rebuild shop should have what is needed for the conversion or I can get what ever you need if you want to do it yourself.

 

Does it look like this?

 

That is the Denso style. You will need a wire that is on-off with the ign. The computer that you are bypassing has one that goes to one of the 2 small field posts on the alt. If that wire is still active, it will be an easy job to add a reg. If not you will need to add a relay to get power to the alt. There are actually many types of regs you can use.

 

That looks like it. How much to get the parts from you should already have the wire.
Railguy

 

Depends on what parts you want (need). Do you have an on off with key wire to the alt field now? (one of the 2 little posts) You can buy the reg plug with pigtail wires and the reg at a local parts store. The reg you get there won't be the heavy duty version (which I recomend) but it will work. Or I can get you the reg that attaches to the back of the alt and no reg plug is needed. Probably $25.00 - $35.00. The low price is the heavy duty external reg and plug. The higher price is the internal reg price. You won't get the internal reg at a parts store. If you want to try a local rebuilder, I can give you part numbers, or I can send you the parts.

 

What I have now is factory. I'm pretty sure. The place I had the altanator rebuilt said it could be done but didn't in still much confidence. I think I'll just buy the kit looks to be the easiest. Thanks
Railguy

 

Did you check the fuses in the 2 diagrams I posted?

 

Be confidant. It will work fine. I have done hundreds of conversions .

 

I ll double check tomorrow.
Railguy

 

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/e...1167297?page=1
Dose this look right ?and when I hook up the new wires do I disconnect any of the old ones?
Railguy

 

It is right. If you have power to one of the small posts (on-off with key) leave it connected and connect the center post of the reg there also. Bend the other wire out of the way so it doesn't touch and connect the end post of the reg there all by itself. If you do not have power on-off with key you will need to install a relay to get key on-off power. Sometimes the lights will pulse when you do it without the relay. If they don't pulse you are good to go. If they do pulse use the relay and you can use the on off from the ecu to power it but it can't be connected to the alt. If the lights pulse we will explain the fix for that then. Diagram #5 and #25 in the jeep forum are correct.

 

I wired it up and and don't have power from the key.Could I splice into the electric choke ? Look at the pics I posted and double check my work.I left wires long until I get things working then I'll cut to length.
railguy

20151012_182527.jpg

20151012_182551.jpg

 

I didn't come with a plug?

 

Are there 2 wires on the post with the green wire? Do either of the original wires have power with the key? I see one is bent away.

 

Any power will make it work, but I don't know what will happen to other things on that circuit. The rotor will draw about an additional 5 amps so it may blow a fuse. remove both original wires from the small posts, leave it connected the way you have it and use a relay to feed the green wire post.

 

Yes the post with the green wire has the original wire with it. I only checked it for power with the key on.
Railguy

 

I ll check tomorrow. I did have .4 volts or maybe .04 volts.probabley doesn't mater. I do have a relay I can use.
Railguy

 

Looks like you will need the relay powered from something else.

 

I have everything wired up and it seems to be working . a cording to the factory gauge At ideal it reads about 11 volts and jumps up as soon as I touch the throttle. Before it was right on the edge of the red and never move ed .
I bent away the other wire on the small terminal. Now the only original wire that's attached is the large pos. And the 2 neg..
Let me know if you think of anything else.
I did use a relay.
I ll check for the pulsing in the lights when it's dark.
Railguy

 

You might double check with a volt meter. You should get higher than 11v at idle. Is the regulator you bought adjustable.

 

Regulator is not adjustable I'll check this evening. I just chocked up the low reading to a 25 yr old gauge. It does work alot better. As I said earlier the gauge didn't even move before.
Railguy

 

I checked the voltage with a meter at the bat. it read 12.68 off and 13.68 idling.When I got inside to shut it I noticed the factory gauge read the same.Didn't think to check it revving .How much should it have up to speed ? How much is to much?head lights didn't seem to be pulsing but it wasn't very dark .It was starting to rain and I had to get read for work tomorrow.I willn't be home till late tomorrow so I took the neg battery cable off just to be sure.
railguy

 

13.68 is probably ok, 14.5ish running at speed.

 

It sounds like you are good to go. There probably will not be any light pulsating when using the relay. Get a reg plug at the parts store. If they don't have one let me know, I can get one. Everything else looks to be right

 

Took it for a drive today seams to working good.
Railguy

 

Great. It looks like there is some sort of coating on the reg. If there is make sure you have the reg grounded good or it will overcharge. If it is bare metal all should be fine as is.