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I need an extractor for a fairly small machine screw (#8 or #10 machine screw). Apparently this screw had corrosion that locked it in place, and when I applied too much torque to the screwdriver, the screw snapped. There's maybe 1.5" of screw sticking above the corroded-in-place threads, but it's down in a recessed hole so I can't get channel locks or similar on it. It's too small diameter to drill and use an inside extractor, and I can't find a stud extractor for anything smaller than 1/4" diameter.
I've had great luck w/ screw extractors & EZ Outs - mostly because I've had a lot of practice w/ my tendency to over tighten & break screws/bolts.
I have this very unique (I'll call it) set of dead-blow extractors. I can't event tell you where I got them many years ago - I think from some flea-market in Florida. Well, they're pretty dang small but clever. Each (there are five) has like a reverse drill bit - not very long. Each "extractor" for a lack of a better word, is ~ 5" - 6" in height with a swiveling black dead-blow piece on the top. You can do one of two things: (1) Drill the tiniest of holes into the top of the screw; or, (2) if the top of a screw is completely rounded out you can set the "tip" into the center of the rounded out area, take a hammer & "dead-blow" the screw. When you dead-blow the extractor thing, it turns the screw CCW. Might take several dead-blows but works pretty good most of the times. Darned if I know what it/they're called though.
Norm, It sounds like your describing a small manual impact driver. Interesting I've never seen them in less than 1/2" drive. Jeff
They're a little different - they're rather small. Sorta like a set of those small screwdrivers you'd have a set of in a plastic case w/ cover. I'd call those type screwdrivers the type you'd use on electronic/PC equipment. I use them (the screwdrivers) quite often on building PC mother boards & the like. These dead-blow extractors are about that size but thicker in diameter.
Look at Dremel 9911, 9904 tungsten carbide bits, also 7144 Diamond bit. These are small (1/8” & 3/32”) and can bore right into the screw with minimal effort. You might get lucky and the vibration (and penetrant) may loosen the rusted portion. A bonus is you can work them to center if your off center a little bit, unlike a drill, since you don’t have much room for error.
The fluted extractor below doesn’t reveal its size but it might work once there’s a hole bored. If there is a left hand bit small enough, it might come into play but they work best on non bottomed or not very seized applications. If situation allows, a little heat would obviously help too.
Not news to you, this is a bit of a sticky wicket!
Look at Dremel 9911, 9904 tungsten carbide bits, also 7144 Diamond bit. These are small (1/8” & 3/32”) and can bore right into the screw with minimal effort. You might get lucky and the vibration (and penetrant) may loosen the rusted portion. A bonus is you can work them to center if your off center a little bit, unlike a drill, since you don’t have much room for error.
The fluted extractor below doesn’t reveal its size but it might work once there’s a hole bored. If there is a left hand bit small enough, it might come into play but they work best on non bottomed or not very seized applications. If situation allows, a little heat would obviously help too.
Not news to you, this is a bit of a sticky wicket!
I'd get some penetrating oil on the screw to soak. Then grind it off flush and "spot" the center of the screw with one of these.below. Then slowly drill the hole til you have the right size for your new screw. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/ro...style~pointed/
I'd get some penetrating oil on the screw to soak. Then grind it off flush and "spot" the center of the screw with one of these.below. Then slowly drill the hole til you have the right size for your new screw. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/ro...style~pointed/
Yeah, I agree this is probably the best method. I’m just concerned about my ability to drill a hole down the center of a 0.164” diameter screw.
I'd get some penetrating oil on the screw to soak. Then grind it off flush and "spot" the center of the screw with one of these.below. Then slowly drill the hole til you have the right size for your new screw. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/ro...style~pointed/
Originally Posted by Fun71
Yeah, I agree this is probably the best method. I’m just concerned about my ability to drill a hole down the center of a 0.164” diameter screw.
I think you'll be fine. Use the tapered cone shape to "spot" the center of the screw. Then you can press to alter the point and drill deeper. The end of the carbide bur (Rotary file) is fairly small. When you have it about .125", you might be able to drive it out with a punch. Just be patient ! Good luck.
Last edited by OLDSter Ralph; Oct 7, 2024 at 10:25 PM.
Was just surfing through and thought of another tool that can be helpful drilling broken fasteners- Hinge Drills. They basically self center on given sizes and I have used them before and found them to be a help in certain situations. I doubt they will handle hard fasteners but the can even be used to just get a center point to further punch and drill. For mundane fasteners they can drill into or through as necessary but I usually switch over to a “real” drill or carbide bit once a hole is started.
These appear to be of appropriate size for Kenneth’s challenge.
I tried that last night and snapped off another 1/4" of the screw. That thing is in there tighter than I thought, so it appears drilling it is going to be required.
I tried that last night and snapped off another 1/4" of the screw. That thing is in there tighter than I thought, so it appears drilling it is going to be required.
Are we talking about a UNC screw thread or a sheetmetal type screw thread ?
Man, I LOVE learning about new tools!!! These would have been real handy the last time I had to extract a broken screw. I free-handed it with a Dremel and it worked, but with this it would have been so much faster!
Was just surfing through and thought of another tool that can be helpful drilling broken fasteners- Hinge Drills. They basically self center on given sizes and I have used them before and found them to be a help in certain situations. I doubt they will handle hard fasteners but the can even be used to just get a center point to further punch and drill. For mundane fasteners they can drill into or through as necessary but I usually switch over to a “real” drill or carbide bit once a hole is started.
These appear to be of appropriate size for Kenneth’s challenge.
Is it that plain to see that I am obviously wildly speculating on a subject that I know nothing about and fabricated a fantasy? In my nearly 40 years as a bike and auto professional, I have removed dozens of broken fasteners from #3 screws in throttle shafts to sizable bolts for commercial applications, up to 3/4”, some easily accessible and some not so much.
The only speculation on my part here, that doesn’t come from hands on experience and application, that I personally figured out and applied for a wide variety of situations, is what exactly Kenneth’s situation is and exactly what it looks like, that’s why I mentioned a couple of different things that might not be in the every day playbook of broken fastener removal. Kenneth strikes me as a knowledgeable and resourceful individual that already knows the “conventional” methods.
You might re read my comment that you quoted, to notice that for the particular drill bit type that I mentioned, where I state that on steel, those may not be an effective drill, though they have worked for me multiple times in the past, but as an effective center point mark that can then be struck with a punch and drilled. Having used them several times in the past, to varying extents, I assure you that I am aware of their capabilities.
