gear head

I am building a shop next year about this time, so I need to start getting my crap in a pile now. Due to a relatively small lot(.35 Acre) the city will only let me build a 1000 sq ft building with a peak of 25 ft. I plan on a 25L'x40'Wx25T' pole barn with a loft that covers 1/4 to 1/3 of the main level leaving the rest open. I know there are people here that have personal shops and wonder if any of you would do anything different if you were to build another? Anybody regret doing a pole barn?

Thanks,
Josh

fleming442

I keep telling myself that I will put radiant floor heat in the next one.

Vintage Chief

I have a detached "man-cave" 30'Wx40'Lx15'H. I've built or helped to erect/build several pole barn/metal buildings. You can do whatever you like to interior if it's built accordingly. However, what you really need to consider from the very get-go is the flooring. The purpose of the building should determine the type flooring. Dirt works well if you're moving farm implements in/out, it also works well if you don't have to worry about wind/dust/dirt and the like. Dirt doesn't work well for an automotive facility workshop. At any point in the future if you elect to insulate, install a heater/AC, etc. dirt is not your friend. I poured a 8" deep mono pad with 12" deep perimeters. Including a 6'x30' front entrance apron the cost = $6500. Suggestion, consider the purpose of the building; and, if you elect to pour a concrete pad pour your pad BEFORE you erect your building.

Consider location & number of overhead doors, location of one or two entrance doors, location & number of windows to provide good ventilation.

Vintage Chief

I REALLY should have done radiant heat...doh! Two cousins did that and how sweet it is.

gear head

Good stuff, adding this for sure.

The primary purpose of the building is to run mine and my granddaughters race program from. I will also be doing several side jobs out of this building, woodwork will happen in the loft and auto and metal fab will be on the main floor. I will have a dead level concrete floor with a trench drain at the door opening. I do not plan on a lift at this time, however, I will have a thickened slap poured in the case I install one in the future.

Good stuff, keep it coming!

Vintage Chief

I installed all my own electrical. If it's a detached building (from main service panel building) you'll need a separate/dedicated sub-panel and separate/dedicated ground for your new building sub-panel. Install lighting into one (or more) dedicated lighting circuits e.g. separate from your main load-bearing circuit(s) e.g. power equipment & receptacles. When wiring ensure the wiring to your receptacles is polarized. Now's a good time to begin adding up your load bearing circuits and plan the size of the sub-panel & circuits. Create separate dedicated circuits for large load bearing devices e.g. welders, grinders, lathes, table saws, compressors & the like. Add them all up and plan accordingly. Nothing worse than having to rewire circuitry which you forgot to accommodate. I have eight receptacle duplexes along each 30' wall & along each 40' wall, each are 47' in height above concrete. I have six overhead (ceiling mounted) T8 four bulb each lighting fixtures. These provide more than ample lighting. I hardwired the lighting. Metal conduit ran throughout building.

EDIT: Almost forgot, plan your wiring to install three-way switches so you can turn lighting ON/OFF from separate entrance locations.