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I am building a shop next year about this time, so I need to start getting my crap in a pile now. Due to a relatively small lot(.35 Acre) the city will only let me build a 1000 sq ft building with a peak of 25 ft. I plan on a 25L'x40'Wx25T' pole barn with a loft that covers 1/4 to 1/3 of the main level leaving the rest open. I know there are people here that have personal shops and wonder if any of you would do anything different if you were to build another? Anybody regret doing a pole barn?
I have a detached "man-cave" 30'Wx40'Lx15'H. I've built or helped to erect/build several pole barn/metal buildings. You can do whatever you like to interior if it's built accordingly. However, what you really need to consider from the very get-go is the flooring. The purpose of the building should determine the type flooring. Dirt works well if you're moving farm implements in/out, it also works well if you don't have to worry about wind/dust/dirt and the like. Dirt doesn't work well for an automotive facility workshop. At any point in the future if you elect to insulate, install a heater/AC, etc. dirt is not your friend. I poured a 8" deep mono pad with 12" deep perimeters. Including a 6'x30' front entrance apron the cost = $6500. Suggestion, consider the purpose of the building; and, if you elect to pour a concrete pad pour your pad BEFORE you erect your building.
Consider location & number of overhead doors, location of one or two entrance doors, location & number of windows to provide good ventilation.
I keep telling myself that I will put radiant floor heat in the next one.
Good stuff, adding this for sure.
Originally Posted by Vintage Chief
I have a detached "man-cave" 30'Wx40'Lx15'H. I've built or helped to erect/build several pole barn/metal buildings. You can do whatever you like to interior if it's built accordingly. However, what you really need to consider from the very get-go is the flooring. The purpose of the building should determine the type flooring. Dirt works well if you're moving farm implements in/out, it also works well if you don't have to worry about wind/dust/dirt and the like. Dirt doesn't work well for an automotive facility workshop. At any point in the future if you elect to insulate, install a heater/AC, etc. dirt is not your friend. I poured a 8" deep mono pad with 12" deep perimeters. Including a 6'x30' front entrance apron the cost = $6500. Suggestion, consider the purpose of the building; and, if you elect to pour a concrete pad pour your pad BEFORE you erect your building.
Consider location & number of overhead doors, location of one or two entrance doors, location & number of windows to provide good ventilation.
The primary purpose of the building is to run mine and my granddaughters race program from. I will also be doing several side jobs out of this building, woodwork will happen in the loft and auto and metal fab will be on the main floor. I will have a dead level concrete floor with a trench drain at the door opening. I do not plan on a lift at this time, however, I will have a thickened slap poured in the case I install one in the future.
I installed all my own electrical. If it's a detached building (from main service panel building) you'll need a separate/dedicated sub-panel and separate/dedicated ground for your new building sub-panel. Install lighting into one (or more) dedicated lighting circuits e.g. separate from your main load-bearing circuit(s) e.g. power equipment & receptacles. When wiring ensure the wiring to your receptacles is polarized. Now's a good time to begin adding up your load bearing circuits and plan the size of the sub-panel & circuits. Create separate dedicated circuits for large load bearing devices e.g. welders, grinders, lathes, table saws, compressors & the like. Add them all up and plan accordingly. Nothing worse than having to rewire circuitry which you forgot to accommodate. I have eight receptacle duplexes along each 30' wall & along each 40' wall, each are 47' in height above concrete. I have six overhead (ceiling mounted) T8 four bulb each lighting fixtures. These provide more than ample lighting. I hardwired the lighting. Metal conduit ran throughout building.
EDIT: Almost forgot, plan your wiring to install three-way switches so you can turn lighting ON/OFF from separate entrance locations.
I just thought I would put a period on this. The shop is now built, albeit 2 months late. It's a 24' x 40' pole barn with a 10' x 24' storage loft. I have finally been able to get inside and start working on hanging lights and sheeting the walls. Getting ready to start electrical now.
Well ****, here we are at the beginning of March and I have the shop wiring about complete. I usually have quite a bit of time off by now due to weather but, mother nature forgot utah was supposed to get winter so work had been relentless. Now I need to get power from the house to the shop. I have an electrician friend coming to look at it but I suspect that I will need another subpanel to make it happen.
