I believe the rear window of my 70 Cutlass S is leaking at the bottom passenger side corner. I had a cloth draped over the package tray and tucked under the molding by the back window.

I noticed a water stain on the cloth the other day (I drove it in the rain 1 time since I have owned it). The car was painted within the last 18 months. They removed the glass from the pictures I saw when they painted it. Is it possible that when they re-installed the window they did not seal it correctly.

Could I get away with taking it to Auto Glass vendor and have the window removed and re-installed with new sealer? Of course I would check the area for rust.

Anyone have this issue?

d1

 

Since it had recently been apart that may fix it. But rust is common in the window channel as there's no drain provided for it. When you pull the glass be ready to tackle rust repair just in case that's the problem.

 

not all that uncommon. did they put it in using a mastic "rope" or from a caulk tube. I have seen where they got the mastic too thin in spots and it didnt make enough contact to the glass. also there is a primer that you are supposed to use that many dont. It is supposed to help with adheasion.

 

I believe it is the mastic rope from what I can tell. Is that what they are suppose to using or is there a better adhesive/sealant product that is out there.

The next step is to locate a reputable auto glass business in my local area.

 

the rope works good if they used the primer but I have seen where as they put the rope down they pull it or push it too much putting it down on the first side and it makes a low spot, then when the glass is laid on it and pushed down it doesnt make a good contact. I know that I have done that myself putting them in. usually if you have the trim off you can look at it and tell where the problem is.

 

Hopefully, simply resealing the window will fix the problem, but I've owned enough of these cars to know that the more likely problem is pinchweld rust. With the window out, carefully clean up the pinchweld area. If you're lucky, some POR-15 and POR Putty will fix the problem, but it's not uncommon for sheet metal patches to be required. DO NOT use silicone in an attempt to glop over the leak. The acetic acid in the RTV simply increases the rate of corrosion.

 

3M 08606 Window Weld. comes in a caulking gun tube for fixing leaks around rope set glass. this is not typical RTV.

 

I think this is what they used for the front windshield. It is kind of like a "grainy" 3M weatherstripping adhesive from what I can tell. They did not do a great job on clean up and there is some this this on the top corners of the windshield.

 

it's a lot thicker than the weatherstrip adhesive, and no where near as stringy

looks like 08606 has been replaced by 08609

 

I had a windshield repair guy show up at the house to see what he could find (I am at work). He called and said the area around the pinch weld is rusting. He said he could put urethane on to help limit the leaking. I told him if I am going to have the time and effort put towards it, then I want to do it right from the get go.

So, any recommendations? Joe Pad recommended..."some POR-15 and POR Putty will fix the problem, but it's not uncommon for sheet metal patches to be required"

 

"Joe Pad"??? I guess I've been called worse. When she was very little, my sister couldn't say "Joe", so I was "Do-do".

Seriously, it depends on how bad the rust is. Unfortunately the window has to come out. A spot sandblaster is best for cleaning out the rust. If it's mainly pinholes, I'd go with the POR Patch. If it's more than that, well, it's cut and paste time. Unfortunately part of the interior needs to come out at that point to prevent fire, and then the MIGHTASWELLS start...

 

Dojo ?

Now that's funny

 

Sorry for the short hand, if I knew you personally, you would definitely have a nickname. But on this forum, there is only one "Joe". So, I doubt there is any confusion who we are talking about. Go Joe!

Back the issue. You are right, until the damage is assessed I won't really know how to fix it. I have to replace my package tray and redo my upholstery anyway, so I will probably attack it then when I have the seats out, etc. But it will have to wait until this fall or winter time frame. I want to be able to drive it this summer and take advantage of all the nice days that North Dakota provides (assuming the mosquitoes don't carry the car away).

Thanks for everyone's input.

d1

 

I have the same problem with my 70 Cutlass. Have had the trim off and its very rusty in there. Basically the top and side on passenger side of car. Anyone make patches for these areas or is this going to have to be fabricated? Thanks.....

 

There are no commercially available patches. You'll need to fabricate them. Most folks use a 90 deg bend then match curvature with a shrinker/stretcher. Note that you successfully resurrected a thread that had been dead for nearly three hears.

 

Guys:
When I do a rear window sheetmetal repair, I eliminate the problem from returning by installing a drain tube in the corners of the channel. The tube runs into the rear wheelwell and drains out there, although not OEM correct, it will help the window in the future.
Thanks Ron

 

Ron,

The problem with the pinchweld rust isn't drainage, it's the crap that collects under the stainless trim. I've pulled off the trim only to find pine needles, maple seeds, and other assorted mulch, all of which retains moisture. I suspect the drain tubes will quickly get plugged by this stuff.

 

Joe:
If the sheetmetal needs replaced, why not go the extra step and fix it, if the water has no place to stand, the "pine needles" will not hold moisture and cause rust out as fast. Several have been done this way and lasted longer than factory work, besides it lets you test you metal working skills a little more than just patching the hole as others do. Alot of newer cars have this already built in from the factory. Just a second opinion, but I'm no expert.
Thanks Ron