Torquing Rear Control Arms

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Old Jun 29, 2018 | 09:12 AM
  #1  
Rocketbrian's Avatar
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From: Economy, Nova Scotia
Torquing Rear Control Arms

I am in the process of torquing the upper and lower rear control arms on my 71 Cutlass convertible and the assembly manual says the tightening should be done with the rear springs compressed so that the distance of approx. 4.5" is maintained between the top of the axle to the side frame rail over the axle, which means the spring is very compressed, as if you have a fully loaded trunk. As most of us don't drive around with full loads, wouldn't this procedure overstress the bushings with a light load?
Do any follow this procedure as outlined in the assembly manual or just torque at empty trunk height? Besides it's a bitch to tighten those bushings with so little room to use a torque wrench. Thanks for your opinions.
Old Jun 29, 2018 | 09:33 AM
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TripDeuces's Avatar
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From: Rogues Island, USA
Find a friend with a four post lift. Much easier to tighten from underneath that way
Old Jun 29, 2018 | 11:02 AM
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I torque mine at ride height with empty trunk, gas in the tank, as close to possible for what I would consider "normal" ride height. I'm sure Olds was worried about people that are going to load the trunk for long periods of time, which would put continuous stress on the bushings. If you plan to do that to the car, I would torque them that way, but for the typical cruiser, you're fine without it.
Old Jun 29, 2018 | 11:41 AM
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joe_padavano's Avatar
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Originally Posted by 83hurstguy
I torque mine at ride height with empty trunk, gas in the tank, as close to possible for what I would consider "normal" ride height.

^^^This. Support the rear axle tubes with jack stands and torque away.
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