RetroRanger

Ever since I bought my 72 2 months ago saturdays have been work on the cutlass day. Ive made a list of stuff to do to the car and usually my buddy comes over and we knock a couple items off the list and typically add a couple more on too.

well saturday was more HEI distributor advance day (link) ...until my bud came over and said lets do the UCA bushings (groan) Ok so onto the bushings,the drivers side front one looked bad before we started and made a goaning noise too.

So we removed the whole arm for better access to the bushings, put the arm in my vise held by the shaft and started trying to knock the bushings out. We also noted that someone had tried this previously and gave up (maybes thats why I got new in box bushings as a present from the PO when I bought the car LOL)

Anyway they wern't budging. My bud came up w the idea to grab the lip on each bushing w a pipe wrench and twist. Sure enough one started to loosen then the other loosened up too. we got them right out and were able to get the new ones in and seated w no additional issues.

I did read on another thread someone rented apress for these anyone have a link to what that might look like ?

next week we may do the passenger side ball joints and UCA bushings.

heres a couple pics, in the car and the worst one removed next to a new one

oldsguybry

I just got done doing the same thing on my car , and the UPC has to be removed , lol I tried using one of those press/pullers designed for that and what a joke , the only way that crap was coming out was with a BFH and some patients.... you were lucky to twist them out with a pipe wrench , if you ever tried doing the lower bushings , those are even tougher

oldcutlass

If you knock the center sleeve out and the rubber, they can be collapsed and twisted out!

MDchanic

Aw, those don't look so bad.

Million miles left on 'em.







- Eric

Lady72nRob71

With a little engineering, these are pretty easy to change!

Here is how to remove without that special hard to find tool:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post291066
Only special item you need is a big regular flat washer.

Here is how to install:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post295618
Use a loaner ball joint press and some pipe fittings.

RetroRanger

thanks for the tips, replys and encouragement.

I only did the drivers side, I may do the passenger side (which look better but are still beat ) this weekend, but I needed BJs before I did that (ball joints cmon get your minds outta the gutter)

I was on rockauto and saw they offered two brands of control arm shaft and they both offered additional positive camber. (raybestos and moog) (Moog #k5250)

Is it a good idea to replace the shaft ?

how can I tell if my shaft already has the additional positive camber ?

wait why do i want additional positive camber ?

Lady72nRob71

Look at the end of the shaft to see of the threaded studs are offset fromt he center of the shaft itself. Apparently, the frames of these cars sag over many miles and these offset shafts help reduce the amount of shims needed to align it right.
Change out the upper contol arm shaft bolts, too (the ones withthe splines that press into the frame. They are high stress points and they can break without warning, dropping your front wheel. Been there done that.

Allan R

You should find that the DS is going to be the one with the most offset. The CSM states the DS should have 1/2° more positive than the right side. Ref: pg3-6.

Listen to what master Kenobi is saying here. While the bolts I took out 'look' ok they are 39 years old and have 120000 miles on them. That's a lot of action on the suspension. Doing these bushings is sooo much fun. I just got back from the hardware store with the washers, so I'm off to cut them in a few minutes. Saw your thread and thought I'd add to the list of supporters as you do this. The bolts Rob mentioned are shown in permalink 83. I ended up buying from In Line Tube. They cost 6.00 each. AMK won't process an order below 30.00.

Rob talked me into doing mine (work in progress right now) but I'm glad he did. the CA bushings were not in good shape for uppers or lowers. You just can't see some of the damage from the surface. When you go to do the left side, here's a link that will give you a good idea how to get it done with least amount of effort and protect the steering shaft: https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...g-plate-3.html .

I'm also doing pretty much what Rob did with the exception that I took off the UCA's before removing the steering shaft. Since you have no reason to remove the steering shaft, permalink 93 of the thread I posted will help you a lot. BTW, I used a piece of 2X4 between the wedge and pry.

RAMBOW

I went ahead and bought the "special" UCA tool before i started the front end build for my friend here recently.
It was $65 w/ free shipping from amazon.

I like having tools.

If you have a factory chassis manual, at the end of the suspension section, and throughout- they have a list of all the specialized tools they used. You can use your imagination and some trips to the HW store to create most of those specialized tools w/o too much effort.

I also recently bought one of the balljoint popper tools. Works like magjic without having to use the pickle fork.

Allan R

Ummm, ok you talked me into borrowing it . Seriously I'll just use the pickle fork because I don't care if the ball joint attaching the center link to the pitman is damaged. I'm replacing the entire steering linkages.

Lady72nRob71

Like the cut washer tool used to remove the UCA bushings!

RetroRanger

thanks Rob and Allan

yeah I saw Robs thread where he broke the UCA shaft bolt while on a date (Ill go ahead and assume your dates weight had nothing to do with the failure )....I was concerned about that too because my bolts dont appear to be the original type. I googled the GM # from the thread in your link and found corvette central (thru amazon) sells the 4 bolts w nuts for ~$18 shipped. then I went to ILT and saw the upper and lower bumpers and a few other parts too.

So I have ball joints and shaft bolts on the way Im gonna get the bumpers and LCA bushings and Ill do those too likely over the winter. My UCA bushings were really beat so I gotta get thsoe done now

I gotta admit between Allan and Rob its hard to stop fixing stuff its always on more thing LOL you guys should get commisions for all the parts replacements you promote

On the offset UCA good info I dont think I need that (yet). I saw in allans referenced thread he had about 2x as many shims as I have in mine. My passenger side UCA only has 1 thick 1 thin in the rear and 1 thin in the front... the drvrs side is 3 thick 1 thin in the rear and 2 thick 1 thin in the front.

any idea how much in degrees a thick or thin shim is equivelant to ???

Allan R

RetroRanger

"When you add or take away shims from both the UCA bolts it affects CAMBER. The shim thickness affects this by the following degrees
.030" thick - 3/16°
.060" thick - 3/8°
.120" thick - 3/4°

When you add or take away shims from the FRONT bolt only, it will affect CASTER similarly by the following:
.030" thick - 1/4°
.060" thick - 1/2°
.120" thick - 1.0°"

interesting thanks

MDchanic

Its all right there in your Chassis Service Manual .

- Eric

Allan R

Yup, Pages 3-6 to 3-9. It's an area I'm working with now on my car. I have the front suspension and steering out and am sort of in the same boat Rob is with his car. Only I'm starting later and am not just painting my engine. I'm pulling it (like everyone told Rob to but he wouldn't) in the spring and both the Trans and engine will be totally overhauled. That's when I might changeout my steering gear and work on the HVAC + some interior details that have been waiting for the last 3 1/2 years