hey all

can anyone confirm that the weights in this pic are in the correct orientation. I took apart my HEI in my 72 350 olds and the center part between the weights(not sure of the name) was flipped over (reverse of pic) but the weights were like the pic.

I could only get 18° of advance at 3kRPMs (thats w 8° initial advance) so thats what started this

thanks for any help

 

Your picture is of a Chevy application.

In order for it to work for an Olds, you must flip over the center bar and both weights.

 

Hi Don

thanks for your response its helpful to me because this is my first OLDS and first GM.

You are correct I got that image from a chevy site as it clearly showed the weights and center plate. I didnt realize Olds was different

I took this image of my distributor last night. I think the weights and center plate are in the correct orientation can you or anyone confirm that for me ?

Also from your post the Olds distributor spins counter clockwise and the chevy spins clockwise is that correct ?

thanks

Dean

 

Everything looks correct. The pics I have the center bar is of a different shape.(not unusual) If for some reason you get the same results, flip over the center bar only and see what happens. Good luck and let us know if you're having anymore trouble.

Don't be afraid to try more initial timing. 8* is kinda low for an Olds HEI. I'm running 14* initial with a Moroso recurve kit and adjustable advance cannister. That could get you to your goal of say...34-36*.

 

Nice Thanks

I just got a moroso kit today. I have in the meantime bumped the intial to 12° w no pinging.

I played w the weights and bar as set-up in the pic and saw that I could get full advance by moving the weights and overcome the springs as set-up but the spring tension was pretty strong. The medium weight moroso springs show all in by 3kRPMs, from my reading Im going to try those first.

thanks for your help

 

well the moroso kit comes w weights, center plate and springs. the weights are of better quality than the aftermarket ones in my car (see my above pic). they are shaped very similar but are thicker and smoother.

so I started w the medium springs and found that at 3k w 12 degrees initial I got ~20 degrees total (grrr)....NP I went right to the lightest springs which were noticably easier to pull on than the med or heavy springs. at 3k RPMs I saw 30 degrees total (better) w 12 degreees initial....but wait at idle I now saw 14 degrees instead of my 12 degees it was set to indicating that at 800rpms (idle) the centrifugal advance was already coming in (GRRRr)

so i compromised w 1 med spring and 1 light spring and I get about 25 degrees (w 12 degrees initial) at 3k RPMs

I drove it all labor day weekend everywhere I went about 400miles no pinging and its certainly more responsive at cruising speeds and when I hit it, but I want more dammit (inserts homers voice (cutlass owners always wanting more))

So I raided the points distributor on my 71 (thats fast becoming my parts car) for the weights and center plate. well the center plate doesnt remove like the HEI one does but the wieghts look beefier than the Moroso ones so my current plan is to see if I can either get the GM points dist weights to work w the moroso ctr plate or maybe put the original lighter weights from the pic above in the dist w the light springs to see if that doesnt solve the advance at idle issue

has anybody else experienced similar problems getting their HEI mechanical advance dialed in

My goal (from reading others experiences) is to get ~36 degrees by 3Krpms 12 degrees initial plus 24 degrees centrifugal w no advance at idle and w the vacuum advance disconnnected is this doable ?

BTW I am measuring the advance at the crank w an adjustable timing light

 

12-14 degrees of initial advance isn't bad if there was no pinging or hard start issues. Go back to the lightest spring, you'll be fine.

 

If the mechanical advance is coming in at idle, the springs are too light.

I did use one medium and one light at first, and it was still was coming in too soon. Thus, I went to two medium. Now I'm good.

Speaking of springs....If a guy had two dozen of those, I bet none of them would be the same. Ha!

I wouldn't mix the two distributor components. That sounds like a can of variables . I applaud your efforts though. Sounds like you have some test n tune after noons ahead of you if you choose that route. As long as you keep a record, you'll know whats what.

As long as you don't have starting issues, I would probably just add more intial timing to get there.

 

With vacuum disconnected, you want 36 deg. total at whatever rpm it all comes in. With stiffer springs, that could well be 4400 rpm.

 

Thanks Drec02 Im no expert but from reading about advance curves I think the reason to avoid this is unstable idle for example at 800 rpms its already moving but when in D ~650rpms (its an auto) it may not be...

Thanks Don I had thought that about the springs too LOL. Iwill at least try the springs from the 71 in my 72 to see where they end up. I have a huge whiteboard in my garage that records anything i might forget (everything LOL) so I have been keeping track of what i change and where it puts me

Thanks R2R from reading most people suggest the centrifugal advance should be all in by 3kRPMs so thats what I have been shooting for, if I cant get it there Ok it is what it is . To be honest I dont like sticking my (undeniably pretty) face in there at 3kRPMs so i havent ventured past that to see where/if I get to ~36 degrees.

Saturday I will mess w this some more so far i have 1 med 1 light spring w moroso weights, I will try the springs out of the 71 to see where that leads and also try to weigh all three sets of weights to see whats up w that. Im thinking maybe the lighter weights w the lighter springs may yield something too

 

no updates this week we worked on the UCA bushings instead (LinkY), but I still plan to look at this further....if only I didnt have to work m-f its really chewing into my cutlass time Grr