Steering Shaft Seal

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Old February 9th, 2015, 02:09 PM
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Steering Shaft Seal

I got overzealous in cleaning up the lower steering shaft and poked a hole in the rubber seal and now it's leaking grease. Is the rubber part available for repair or do I need to look for another steering shaft?



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Old February 9th, 2015, 02:46 PM
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/68-69-70-71-...-/160584011295
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Old February 9th, 2015, 02:48 PM
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The seal is available from Inline Tube + others. Just did this job on my 70 GS using their seal. Be aware you need a press to get it on.
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Old February 9th, 2015, 02:58 PM
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Yah, a PITA to replace.
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Old February 9th, 2015, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by mrolds69
The seal is available from Inline Tube + others. Just did this job on my 70 GS using their seal. Be aware you need a press to get it on.
Thanks for the many quick replies. I have a small 20 lb press from Harbor Freight. It's not a total POS (but almost) - will this be enough. Is the replacement procedure in the CSM? I don't see it in my '72 book. How does it come apart?
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Old February 9th, 2015, 03:25 PM
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There is a spring holding the seal to the metal cup, pull the spring, slide down the seal and you will see the pin that is pressed out for disassembly.
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Old February 9th, 2015, 03:38 PM
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I found the spring clip and pulled it apart. Man that grease really stinks. What kind of grease is this? Can I use wheel bearing grease for reassembly?
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Old February 9th, 2015, 03:58 PM
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You can use hi-temp wheel bearing grease. I used an HF press, an A frame thing, it was about 60.00. DO NOT try to hammer that pin out. Do not try to separate the 2 shafts. Let me find you directions w/ pics........
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Old February 9th, 2015, 04:14 PM
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OK here's a link. I don't agree with hammering the pin out. You need to press it out. The pin has to be centered when pressed in. I would junk the clip, it's easier to destroy it taking it off.. Get a new clip with tabs, I think it's 1". Once the seal and clip are on...peel back the seal and CAREFULLY grind off the tabs on the clamp with a Dremel. You have to cut or file those tabs, they can damage the boot. I used HI-Tack red grease. It's close to the exhaust, you want a hi heat grease. You really should grease the bearing at the bottom of the column, too. Spring clip holds it in, then a big spring behind it. It can be tricky to get back in, if the column is in the car. Honestly...the shaft seal IS a pain. You can probably find a shaft cheap, they are a dime a dozen. Only reason I did mine is because it was a BBO, BBB, BBC shaft which is different and harder to come by cheap. Between the cost of the seal + labor you might be ahead.http://www.buickperformanceclub.com/...placement.html
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Old February 9th, 2015, 04:59 PM
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Does anyone have a tip on how to get the clamp on the small end of the boot? The one with no "ears" on it...what a pita
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Old February 9th, 2015, 05:02 PM
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Gm#7802919

MrOlds69:
I haven't only been working on my project for a couple of years, but I'm already forgetting things. I decided to save your very helpful link to my computer for future reference. It seems that I had already found this website about 2 years ago and saved the info to computer - LOL. The good news is I found the seal/boot for less at GMPartsGiant.com. It is GM#7802919 and it was only $8.95 .... but the shipping was $12.18! WTH, it can't weight but a few ounces. Oh well, $21 for the GM part is still better/cheaper than the $40 InLineTube was charging for a re-popped part. Thanks for all the help guys!

Rodney
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Old February 9th, 2015, 05:24 PM
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The seal can also be removed by drilling out the nylon pins in the collapsible shaft, much easier, and the pins can be replaced with nylon rod..
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Old February 9th, 2015, 06:01 PM
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I suppose you could drill the pins, but actually the nylon is more than just the pins. It fills the cavity between the 2 shafts, also preventing rattling. Nylon rods would work, though. You really only need something to fix the length til' it's in. It would be way easier. I've also hear of using roll pins there. The hot tip with the clamp, is you just mangle it to get it out and use a new clip with tangs + grind them, being careful not to overheat the boot with sparks or tough it with the cutoff wheel, like I said. Works great and super easy. Last thing is...I seriously doubt that GM boot is the same. They would never repro it, if GM still sells it. It may be the newer boot that clips outside the seal. like on Jeeps + GM trucks.
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Old February 9th, 2015, 06:32 PM
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I bought my seal from GMPD, a few years ago..
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Old February 26th, 2015, 07:34 AM
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Well it turns out GMPartsGiant.com didn't have the part after all and refunded my money about 4 days later. So, I purchased the seal/boot from InLineTube for $26+$4 shipping. Here are some additional pics for anyone who stumbles upon this thread in the future looking for some assemble pics.

Here's all the moving parts. Not shown is a spring type clip that holds the seal/boot into the metal housing.


Close up of the pin and followers that fit inside the housing.


The pin has to be pressed out to remove the seal/boot.
This pic shows pressing the pin back into the steering shaft. Be sure to slide the new seal/boot onto the steering shaft first.



Make sure the pin is centered in the shaft to keep it centered in the housing.


Reassembled before lubing with high-temp wheel bearing grease and inserting back into the housing.
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Last edited by cdrod; February 26th, 2015 at 07:42 AM.
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Old February 26th, 2015, 07:48 AM
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I didn't think you could still get the seal from GM, they would never have re-proed it. Good job, and nice pics for others. Glad to see you chose to remove the pin. It's not the easiest way...but it's definitely the right way to do it!
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Old February 26th, 2015, 09:26 AM
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Nice thread!

Thanks for sharing! I have this job in front of me right now, and really appreciate the information and pics - especially about using HiTemp grease due to proximity to exhaust (new headers).

I love this site and the willingness to share information - all a bunch of Great Guys, IMHO.

I've got the press covered, just need to obtain the boot, and have at it.

Thanks again,
Rich
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