1969cutlass4d

So from the picture I am putting with this post, this is where I am sitting at. The old bushings and ball joints are out, the control arms are cleaned up, and they are ready to have the new parts put in.

I was told by a friend that to put the new bushings in, we would be greasing up the sleeves, is this something I want to do? or just press them in?

and what is the best way to add the rod for the upper control arm?

I am using a 20ton press to help get these in.

This is my first time doing this, so any tips, tricks and advice to put this back together would be helpful. heck if you know of a video that would make this even easier for me.

Thanks

joe_padavano

I do two things to make bushing installation easier. First, I make sure that there are no burrs on the ID of the holes in the control arms. Second, I apply a light coating of wheel bearing grease to the surfaces of the bushings that fit into the control arms. You don't need to smear the entire outside surface. In fact, look closely at the lower bushings, for example, and you'll see a small step near the end with the flange. You only need to grease this step and a short distance around the other end.

As for the upper arm shaft, it must be placed in the arm before either of the bushings. It takes three or four hands to pull this off, but you can't get it in once the bushings are in place.

Also, be sure to put a temporary spacer (angle iron or end-grain hardwood) between the faces of the control arms when pressing the bushings in place to avoid distorting them.

GlennLever

I would not grease either the ball joint or the bushings. Remember these are a press fit and the press fit is what hold the parts together.


If you have a press this is the set up you need for the ball joint, the most important thing is to make sure you start the ball joint square. What it as it starts and if it tills, stop, remove it and start over.


All the spacers were made from pieces of pipe, no special tools





As for the upper control arm both bushings can be done at the same time with the press, this is this set up you need.







One thing I have found that helps is putting the ball joints and bushings in the freezer the night before you want to install the parts, and when your wife is not around stick the control arm in the oven for 20 minutes at 120 degrees. That is warm enough where you can still handle the arm with bare hands, but cool enough where you will not hut any paint or powder coat on the arms.

joe_padavano

The upper ball joints are bolted in.

The lower ball joints are pressed up to the flange. They are held in by the fact that the front coil spring keeps the lower ball joints constantly in tension against the bottom of the lower control arm.

The upper control arm bushings are pressed into the upper arms, then retained by the washers and nuts on the upper control arm shafts.

The lower control arm bushings are captured between the mounting flanges on the frame and the bolt that goes through the center of them.

The small amount of grease on the bushings pretty much gets wiped off during the press anyway. I've been doing it that way for 40 years now. Never had one "come loose". The lubricant is a MUCH better solution than having the bushing get cocked during the press, which can egg the hole (and then they REALLY are lose).

GlennLever

Bushings are captured mechanically, correct, however you do not what them to rotate in the pockets. Lubricating them would help not hinder this.


From the factory bushings in lower control arms were, on occasion, spot welded in to hold them in place.


Lower ball joint is held in by downward force of the spring, however on the recoil of a hard bump the force is not there. Only the friction of the press fit then holds them in place. Lower ball joints do pop out.


If grease was the correct method, the service manual would state so, it does not.

joe_padavano

The press fit is sufficiently tight that no amount of grease will allow the bushings to rotate.

The force is ALWAYS there. With the suspension at full droop (car on a lift, for example), there is still several hundred pounds of tension on the ball joint. It is not possible for the control arm to move so quickly on a rebound that the spring can't keep up. Sorry, but you are incorrect and frankly worried about a non-problem.

GlennLever

I have stated my belief based on the write up in the service manual.

You have stated your belief.

I will not comment further.