Removing the body from the frame

Old Oct 20, 2015 | 05:54 PM
  #1  
DewChugr's Avatar
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Removing the body from the frame

I can't believe we are getting ready to pull the body off the frame, but we are and I have a couple of questions. It's a 71 convertible with not to bad of rust, floor is in pretty good shape, not rot around windshield, etc. The top is still onthe car, but I've got the latches off the front so it's just hanging there.

Our plan is to do what others have done and bolt a piece of angle iron to the hinge mounts and run a piece of 1 inch square tube from each to the door striker. Question, what thickness do I need for the angle iron and for the tubing? Second, what's the best way to attach the tubing to the door striker or is it better to attach it to the inside of the door opening?

Do you guys brace across the car? My son is thinking we should use two pieces of tubing diagonally from door to door. What do you guys suggest.

The tank is out, front end and suspension is off, engine and trans are out. Interior except dash is out as well as bumper, trunk lid. Os there anything else to remove other than the parking brake cable?

I'm planning on setting it on 4x4s and concrete blocks.

Thanks for any and all tips!
Old Oct 21, 2015 | 08:14 AM
  #2  
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I used roughly 3/16 inch plate and angle iron. For the striker part I took a piece of flat stock and bent it into a 90* angle. The I drilled a hole in it, removed the striker bolt and bolted the plate behind the striker bolt. I also made another plate that bolts to the hinge holes using the original bolts. I welded a piece of angle iron between the plates. The upper brace is just welded to the angle iron and tacked to the door edge. I did not brace it across the body although that's an option.
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Old Oct 21, 2015 | 09:03 AM
  #3  
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Originally Posted by TripDeuces
I used roughly 3/16 inch plate and angle iron. For the striker part I took a piece of flat stock and bent it into a 90* angle. The I drilled a hole in it, removed the striker bolt and bolted the plate behind the striker bolt. I also made another plate that bolts to the hinge holes using the original bolts. I welded a piece of angle iron between the plates. The upper brace is just welded to the angle iron and tacked to the door edge. I did not brace it across the body although that's an option.
Thanks for sharing. I was thinking about doing this (green), but your option looks good. I just want to make sure there are no bad surprises. My striker bolts do NOT want to come out, nor the door latches. Hopefully by the time I get to it the Kroil will let me get the body bolts loose.


Maybe this would be better?
Old Oct 21, 2015 | 09:54 AM
  #4  
Octania's Avatar
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Generally speaking triangles are strongest.

The larger the better.

When I did a convert body off I welded the strut to the panel inside, aft of the door.

Removed weld and ground smooth when done with it.
Old Oct 21, 2015 | 01:00 PM
  #5  
442dale's Avatar
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Here's how I did it on my 1970 Pace Car.
No welding.
Just took it down after 1 1/2 years on my rotisserie.
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Old Oct 21, 2015 | 01:11 PM
  #6  
442dale's Avatar
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FYI, I used 1 1/2" square tubing x 1/8" thick walls.

Grade 8 Bolts with hardened washers.
Old Oct 21, 2015 | 05:22 PM
  #7  
coppercutlass's Avatar
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I used the pallet my snap on box was shipped in cut in half lol. Its looks scary but was sturdy enough for my frame repairs.

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