Power disk/drum to Manual disk/drum
January 15th, 2018, 10:28 AM
#1
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Edmonton, AB
Posts: 19
Power disk/drum to Manual disk/drum
i am converting my power stock front disk rear drum to the same setup but with manual brakes. I understand I need a 1" bore master with a different pushrod used on the top hole on the brake pedal. My question is whether I need a pushrod retainer on the master cylinder of I use a deep pocket master cylinder such as this one from a manual brake corvette. Not concerned about it looking stock.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/raybestos,MC36367,master+cylinder,1836
as far as a pushrod setup would something like this work or would I be better off making one, heard some people use a grade 8 3/8 bolt
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-cpmpr-u2
Also in this scenario I will use an adjustable proportioning valve with a 10lb residual going to the rear drums since I believe the corvette master is originally setup for 4 wheel disk. Does this sound like a decent setup? Anything I am missing?Also sorry for the duplicate I'm not sure exactly how that happened. Hopefully someone can delete the first post because I cannot figure out how. Thanks
as far as a pushrod setup would something like this work or would I be better off making one, heard some people use a grade 8 3/8 bolt
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-cpmpr-u2
Also in this scenario I will use an adjustable proportioning valve with a 10lb residual going to the rear drums since I believe the corvette master is originally setup for 4 wheel disk. Does this sound like a decent setup? Anything I am missing?Also sorry for the duplicate I'm not sure exactly how that happened. Hopefully someone can delete the first post because I cannot figure out how. Thanks
Last edited by Taylor442; January 15th, 2018 at 10:36 AM. Reason: Duplicate
January 15th, 2018, 10:44 AM
#2
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,298
Inline Tube sells the correct pushrod, boot, and retainer. This really isn't a place to mess around.
What you've suggested will work. That's the same setup I've got for my 64 Vista. I went with the "Corvette" master and a separate residual pressure valve to preserve the option of four wheel discs later.
What you've suggested will work. That's the same setup I've got for my 64 Vista. I went with the "Corvette" master and a separate residual pressure valve to preserve the option of four wheel discs later.
January 15th, 2018, 11:05 AM
#4
@ Joe. I will be doing manual brakes but will be keeping my drum/drum set up ? will I need the residual valves on both ends ??? I also plan on using the corvette style master. Not to hijack the thread but I haven't found someone who has kept the drum drum combo and used the particular parts I'm using. but since The op is using the same master I'm curious to know and will be following along .
January 15th, 2018, 11:23 AM
#5
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,298
@ Joe. I will be doing manual brakes but will be keeping my drum/drum set up ? will I need the residual valves on both ends ??? I also plan on using the corvette style master. Not to hijack the thread but I haven't found someone who has kept the drum drum combo and used the particular parts I'm using. but since The op is using the same master I'm curious to know and will be following along .
January 15th, 2018, 01:36 PM
#6
I wanted to use the lightweight aluminum master from speedway. I also intend to go to wildwood brakes in the front down the road.
Last edited by coppercutlass; January 15th, 2018 at 01:39 PM.
January 15th, 2018, 03:04 PM
#7
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Location: Edmonton, AB
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Another follow up question, do I need a 2 inlet 3 outlet combination/prop valve or can I run the front outlet of the master cylinder to a T fitting and then to each front disk and the rear outlet of the master cylinder to a 1 in 1 out adjustable prop valve and then to the rear of the car.
thanks
thanks
January 15th, 2018, 03:09 PM
#8
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,298
Another follow up question, do I need a 2 inlet 3 outlet combination/prop valve or can I run the front outlet of the master cylinder to a T fitting and then to each front disk and the rear outlet of the master cylinder to a 1 in 1 out adjustable prop valve and then to the rear of the car.
thanks
thanks
January 16th, 2018, 07:36 AM
#9
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Location: Plano, TX
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You can do the latter. The only reason why the factory combo valves have the front and back plumbing meet in one block is for the differential pressure switch that lights the BRAKE light on the dash if you have a leak in half of the brake system. Of course, the BRAKE light comes on just about the time your foot hits the floor, so I've never really seen the benefit.
The metering valve isn't needed (it'd actually be quite bad) for all disc or all drum systems, and I can see an argument that it's not essential for disc/drum. But as I've heard on here before, "the OEM must've done it for a reason"
January 16th, 2018, 07:46 AM
#10
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,298
That is certainly in there, but isn't there also a metering valve on the front that slightly delays the pressure rise on the front so the rear can overcome the springs?
The metering valve isn't needed (it'd actually be quite bad) for all disc or all drum systems, and I can see an argument that it's not essential for disc/drum. But as I've heard on here before, "the OEM must've done it for a reason"
The metering valve isn't needed (it'd actually be quite bad) for all disc or all drum systems, and I can see an argument that it's not essential for disc/drum. But as I've heard on here before, "the OEM must've done it for a reason"
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