First off, I tried installing one of the bushing shells myself, and my makeshift 'brace' came out and the arms squeezed together a bit. I took it to the garage to have installed. They seemed to install it fine, but the squeeziness is still there a bit. Is that a possible prob later on? Pic below. You can see the unevenness on the protruding shell on the left of the arm. I have come to the conclusion that I hate factory control arms and their weak points at the bushing locations. I want to get tubular front ones in the future. The back are already Hotchkis arms.




Also, how far do these rubber ball joint boots have to go on? All the way to the bottom touching the arm all around? They are a bit of a pain to put on, as I have no special tools to do so. I just hit each side with a rubber mallet. Plus... I think I oriented the boot wrong anyway... isn't the notch supposed to face the rear?

 

The bushing is fine. The notch in the ball joint boot is supposed to face inboard, away from the brakes, since it's supposed to allow excess grease to escape when the ball joints are greased. The boot should touch the control arm. I use a piece of pipe to hammer it in place.

 

I almost did the same thing , lower balljoint Ill never attempt again , but got it out and re-installed , the control arm bushings were rather easy . Taking the spring off I did not like very much (scary) lol I hid around the corner while turning the wrench compressing the spring

 

I did the same.... was proud of the press that I built (with a 30 ton jack in it ) ...bad idea ! after straightening the arms with a hammer, (pretty soft metal ) using the other side as a pattern , got it pretty close. I did the other bushings just using a combination of differenrt sockets. Use one bigger than the OD of the bushing on the inside, to push thru, about a 2'' in between the arms to keep from collasping the arms, smaller one out side to push in with. I think an alignment job will correct anything left over.......Ball jioint boots go on essy with a socket, as do the hubcaps

 

Well I need new boots, well one at least. I managed to get the boot down only a mm or so more, and I made a tear in the side doing so. Not only that... now I can slide the boot easily by hand, so that round metal insert is prob bent. I also put some more bearing grease on, which prob is contributing.

I have a hard time believing these things are that much of a PITA. I would also like to see pics of these Moog rubber boots pressed all the way to the bottom touching the arm.

 

Checked with the fella I got the arms from (the Lever family folks), and apparently that gap in the above pic is normal, and it will compress more as needed when the spindle is attached.

 

I doubt that gap is going anywhere when you crank the castle nut down on the spindle. Think about it....all that's going to happen is the upper thin rubber portion of the boot is going to compress. If it takes a hammer and pipe to get the boot on then how the same or greater pressure going to be created AND TRANSFERRED TO THE BASE OF THE RUBBER BOOT by compressing the spindle bottom again a flimsy rubber boot body. As Joe mentioned, you need to get a piece of pipe (and not real thin pipe that will cut into the rubber) and fashion a tool.

If you have the pipe cut then also go around the ID and OD of that end of the pipe with a file and sandpaper and slightly round off the sharp edges from the cut....no need in having a sharp edge to cut the rubber again.

Of course, don't use a HUGE swing of the hammer to get it on...start out with lighter taps, pull the pipe off, check for progress, and proceed.

I think the bottom of the boot should fit a lot closer to the arm with the boot properly installed.

 

When dealing with the bushings on factory arms,I took a section of steel pipe,and cut it to the length needed to fit snug between the 2 rails,then sliced it lengthwise,to create more of a tunnel,to give more support to a larger area of the arm legs.I used a pipe that was a larger diameter than the bushing,and that small ridge on the arm.I've done it with my press,or a large hammer,if I am not at my shop.I get the bushing to seat completely into the arm,with the flange up tight against the side.Otherwise,you can have some fitment issues when trying to install the arm into the frame.

 

And I use a piece of plastic 2"? pipe coupling... cut to length and then cut the side out just enough to slip over the bushing, thus preventing the arm from collapsing...

 

I need 2 more Moog rubber lower front ball joint boots. Anyone gots?

 

the "help" section at your local autoparts store should have extra boots.
If they are not on the shelf, they shoudl be able to order you just the boot. Dorman makes all that stuff.

 

Dorman sells dust boots for the tie rod ends, but unfortunately I don't think any of these fit ball joints.

http://www.dormanproducts.com/c-289-dust-boots.aspx

 

hmm i would have sworn i've seen them in that section.

Oh well. Energy suspension also sells them... Of course they are fancy Polyurethane boots, but thats all i can find off a simple google search.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...ame&Sec=121837

Most parts stores carry energy suspension stuff so they would likely order it, or get it from summit.

You might also try calling PST. They will sell any of their stuff separately (not just as its bundled in their catalog) you just have to call and ask.

 

Thx. I assumed the boots were specific to Moog ball joints and that I needed Moog boots.

 

Actually, the part of the ball joint where the boot goes has to fit through the hole in the control arm, so the boot will fit them all.

 

I had an issue when I installed my bushings on my 66 Delta. They were on tight after trying various methods. After a while on the car, they started to slip out of the arm. This weirded me out, of course, so I took everything apart again.

I had a small weld placed at the control arm and bushing housing. Has held fine ever since.