I just discovered a slight leak in the high pressure line from the pump where the hose goes into the fitting(the crimmped fitting between the pump and the steering box) Is it difficult to replace this line? I've read that it is a lot like bleeding your brakes, getting all the air out of the system and all that. Also, it's a '73 350 motor, but I'm not sure the pump is original to the engine, as there are "ghost" holes in the mounting bracket that do not lead to any holes in the block. Are the lines interchangable for certain years? Chumley

 

I would double check the location of the leak - use Gunk, or some other heavy duty cleaner to clean the lines, pump, and steering box so you can see exactly where it is coming from.
It could just be a leaky flare nut.

If it is the crimped hose connection, you should replace the line (re-crimping is theoretically an option, if you have access to the right equipment).

To replace, simply (HA!) unscrew the nuts on each end of the line (have a pan under the car, or park in your neighbor's driveway, as it will leak a fair amount of oil), then install the new line.

A few lock-to-lock turns of the steering wheel (preferably with the front wheels off the ground to decrease effort) will bleed most of the air. The rest will bleed out while you drive.
Don't run the engine with the pump cover off (one word: Geyser.), and watch to be sure your fluid level doesn't get to low during those first few sweeps.

- Eric

 

What Eric said. Once you have the hose, it should take 1/2 hour or less assuming you're half way mechanical. They are about $25.00-$40.00 at most parts stores.

 

Chumley,
That pressure line has more psi in it than you want to screw around with. If it's starting to leak, that's a bad thing. I'd replace both pressure and return lines. ILT has some really nice ones for around 65/set and they have the right shape. Do NOT buy a cheapo line that has the wrong shape. It will jump around like a banshee when you bleed the air or use the steering. Go ahead, ask me how I know.....

What Eric said about bleeding. BTW you should try to drain as much PS fluid as you can from the pump before attempting to remove that line. (box end wrench is mandatory to avoid stripping the sides of the securing nut) Use a turkey baster to suck all the fluid out of the pump. Even with that though, it's going to drip and flow all over your block/frame. Put some cardboard or toweling on the floor before draining. The bolt on the back of the pump is (sorry - a BEEATCH) hard to break loose. It's almost easier to take the pump bracket off than just the hose IMO. Refill the pump with Dexron®3 transmission fluid - it's recommended in your owners manual.

 

Sounds do-able for me. Are the flare nuts all pretty much the same size on this generation of PS pumps? Also, what exactly do you mean by the "correct shape" of the line? And who is ILT? Fusicks has both lines for around $65, but again, I'm not sure if this pump is original to the engine. I'm hesitant to buy the lines and then discover they are not the right ones. I think I'll do as first suggested and clean everything really well to try and see just where the leak is originating from. Thanks for the help guys....Chumley

 

Well, cleaning and trying to find the leak is one thing, and it's your car so you can do pretty much what you want.

ILT is In Line Tube. They also sell these hose sets as 'concourse correct' for your model. What do I mean by shape? Have a look at the unique bends and twists of the metal part of the lines going from the pump to the gearbox. That's what I'm talking about. Flare wrench size is either 9/16 or 5/8 IIRC and you will definitely need it to avoid rounding that nut on the back of the PS pump. The pressure hose and return hose are both very 'do-able'. If you have an assembly manual, there's a really good picture that shows the proper lineup of the pressure line at the gearbox. If you need a reference LMK and I'll post it for you.

Fusicks has the same hoses if you prefer dealing with them. Just be careful with that pressure hose in the meantime. Usually when they start leaking its a sign of failure.

Post a picture of your pump and the leaking hose fitting. One of us can tell you if you have the original style or not.

 

Rock Auto is sometimes a good source for hoses, brakes, etc. You have to watch because they will usually have name brands, i.e. Gates, and cheaper brands of unknown quality. Also, after you pay shipping it may be nearly as cheap to go to your local parts store but it is worth checking out.

 

I bought mine from the local auto parts store for about $17.00. Came the next day, yes use line wrench or be very careful with a standard open end. I had my wife put her finger over the reservoir end while I changed mine. Yes, she is good at that sort of stuff!

 

Some local parts suppliers will make a factory correct hose if you bring in the old one. They match the bends exactly. Up here the price to do that would be about the same as buying from ILT or Fusick and shipping. I made the mistake of replacing with non stock pressure/return hoses. They will be coming off and new proper ones going on.

For anyone who's curious WHY? The metal parts of the OEM hose keep it from flexing toward the rad fan, and limits the amount of movement from the hose when the pump is working hard.