http://www.cardomain.com/ride/250005...supreme/page-2 i have some more pics up.we bought a frame for $100 from a 71 cutlass sx. we are probably going to use just the front part of the frame and cut it at the factory welds where it come down for the front body mount since our frame is rust free.

 

Have you checked to see if the original is entirely straight?
Think I'd want to keep the integrity of a complete frame, and not wonder about someone elses welding skills or alignment!
Seems the labor would be cheaper with a frame swap, too!

 

yea thats something we still have to check out first. whatever we do though we still have a lot of welding to do on it.

 

I hope you don't take these comments the wrong way as I'm just trying to get you to see the error of your ways. I've worked in the collision industry in the past (still dabble as a hobby) and have a lot of experience working with cars of the 60's and 70's vintage. And I have pulled quite a few frames. You have gotten the cart quite ahead ahead of the horse with what you are doing and you may get yourself into trouble. The frame should not have been removed from the car until you checked to see if the frame was "racked" or "diamonded". If it was, and I suspect it is, that should have been pulled to take any potential racking out of the body. I can't tell what you have as I am not there. But measurements tell the story. I suggested this to you in the past. You should have also had the cowl pulled before removing the frame. These repairs are not just about unbolting parts and bolting replacements back in. There is a method that needs to be followed or you will end up with one screwed up car. When I see how the body mount looks that sat under the drivers side cowl, things moved quite a bit. This is what also leads me to believe the original frame is racked. Trying to use some of a racked frame is a big problem and bolting a replacement frame under a body that was attached to a racked frame may also be an issue. Things may not line up. Hence the importance of following the necessary steps. Lastly, I would strongly recommend against you cutting any frame section off of a frame with the thinking you will put a new stub on another frame. Unless you have experience doing this and have a full set of frame gauges, not to mention a very level work surface, you will end up with 2 junk frames. Yes, it was a common practice in the industry to replace front clips on these frames but that is not a job for just anyone, including me. If you look at how the front clip is welded to the HT frame and compare to the conv frame, you will see you'll need to make an access slot on the outside of the side rail on the HT frame where you can weld through. Cutting it apart is also a challenge.

The only way to go is completely use the SX frame and add the conv boxing pieces from your frame. Although, the front frame horns on the SX frame look a little funny to me. This frame should be fully checked and measured to make sure it isn't bent. Personally, I would have tried to save the original frame as I think it was doable. At this point, my feeling is you are in a bad place right now. You may want to put the bent frame back under the body and get it to a shop to have pulling done. If the frame can't be saved at least you'll have the body squared up so a replacement frame will bolt in place as it should.

This is just my opinion from past experience. Wise people will work with that experience of others. I just would hate to see you do all of this work and end up with a car that doesn't go down the road correctly and one that you don't want to drive anymore. Worse yet, one that could be worth a lot less.

 

X 10!! I think we both said this in your 1st post!
How do you expect to pull the cowl?
I'm not aware of any specs to the body mounts!
And how're you gonna tie down the body?
I've seen frames worse than yours pull perfect!

You can lead a horse to water - - - - - - -