Fuel line routing/delivery in Vista Cruiser?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Mar 10, 2011 | 07:04 PM
  #1  
frozencaveman's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 73
Fuel line routing/delivery in Vista Cruiser?

I recently acquired my mom's 1972 Vista Cruiser with 350 Rocket and 53k original miles. It had been sitting for quite some time (maybe 10 years) and I've been unable to start it. It's definitely a fuel delivery problem and I'm trying to isolate where the problem is. If I pour gas into the carb, the engine turns over and stumbles for a bit, but there's no gas coming in from the tank.

This morning I took the line from the tank off the fuel pump and blew 30 psi back into the tank. My wife heard bubbles from the tank, so I'm fairly certain the line isn't completely blocked. However, I also applied a mightyvac to that line and was unable to get any vacuum going. There's probably 2-4 gallons of new gas in the tank, and I think the tank was completely dry when I added that gas.

I got under the back and for the life of me can't figure out where the tank and the fuel line connections are. I see two hard lines running between the driver and passenger side right in front of what I think is the fuel tank, both with cloth/rubber hoses on the ends (both driver and passenger side). Where those hoses go, I can't tell. The tank seems to be pretty well protected wherever it is. A quick check didn't even tell me how I could drop the tank if I needed to.

So if I can't get a vacuum going from the front of the car, I'm thinking there might be a crack in a line somewhere that is preventing both the mightyvac and the fuel pump from drawing gas from the tank. I figure since my wife heard air bubbles, the fuel must be covering the outlet. There's no evidence of gas leaking under the car.

Any ideas on what to try next? Anyone know if the fuel line is metal from the front all the way to the back (such that my collapsed hose would be somewhere at the ends), and how it navigates the chassis? Do I even care about the return line (could it be causing a problem here)?

Confounded in California,

John
Old Mar 10, 2011 | 07:38 PM
  #2  
MDchanic's Avatar
Connoisseur d'Junque
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 21,183
From: The Hudson Valley
You need to get the Chassis Service Manual, or this will drive you crazy.

A copy of the section you need is here.

The most important picture is attached below.

As for hoses, it sounds like you may have a cracked and porous hose on the tank end, which allows the pump to suck in air instead of gas, leaving you with no fuel in the carb.

... and, yes, there are steel lines the length of the car, with hoses making the connections on each end.

- Eric
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
Old Mar 10, 2011 | 08:00 PM
  #3  
frozencaveman's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 73
Wow, you're not kidding. It's not a simple procedure to drop that tank w/o a lift, is it? This helps get the perspective of where the tank and the connections are - thanks very much! I'll take another look at it over the weekend and may have another question or two.

Thanks again,

John
Old Mar 10, 2011 | 08:16 PM
  #4  
frozencaveman's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 73
In reviewing the pdf further, it looks like I might need to remove the left rear wheel (and brake drum?) in order to remove the stone shield? Are you familiar enough with the process to know if I need to do this if I want to access the fuel hose at the tank (presumably where the rotted line is located)?

Thanks,

John

P.S. I'm already looking forward to driving my entire office (and then some) to lunch.
Old Mar 10, 2011 | 10:32 PM
  #5  
Bluevista's Avatar
Registered
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,430
From: Northeast Ohio
Another Cruiser of the Vistas, in the future with your entire office to lunch hopefully.


You're sure it isn't the fuel pump?

You don't need a lift to tank the tank out.
Block the other three wheels then take a floor jack and jack the right rear wheel off the ground a few inches at the jacking point on the frame in front of the rear wheel, where the frame is still flat before the kick-up for the rear. Then put a jackstand in place of the jack and slide the tire under the frame in front of the jack for just in case reasons.
Then jack up the rear end a little and disconnect the shock then let it drop down, careful you don't go down too much and break the brake line.
You then unscrew the shield and unbolt the tank and the tank will tip out towards the rear end/wheel on top and then down. You may want to siphon the fuel out first or it's going to be a little heavy. You have a compressor so you can cut a slit in a rubber hose and start the siphon with air pressure by blowing air towards the open end unless you want gas breath.
If the fuel bubbles with air pressure then it won't pull out with a vac it may be a clogged fuel sock/strainer on the end of the pick-up in the tank, possibly from junk in the tank and broken down fuel after sitting for that long.
I'm not sure if a Mityvac could pull through that much and large of a line and maintain a vacuum between pumps, I guess if you pump fast and it's airtight? I would suspect it being a bad fuel pump too in any case. Even if it is the pump the tank should still be dropped and cleaned after ten years, the small area on the bottom really collects junk.
Otherwise all I can think off is a collapsing rubber connector hose or a kink in the supply line, loose connection? There is a section of long rubber hose from the tank in the rear and another short one connecting the lines behind the right front wheel frame area.
If you pull the tank it's then just a matter of loosening the lock ring and pulling the sending unit from the tank and putting a new fuel sock/strainer on if that's the problem.
Be careful because you can't get tanks or sending units, new or repo.
I flushed my tank with hot water from a garden hose outside in the drive, there isn't that much fuel left to worry about contaminating anything, check it for rust and holes well.
Mine had a small hole so I took it to a radiator shop and had it boiled out and the hole soldered up.

Edit: I found the fuel strainer number, 5651702, Rock Auto has them.
http://www.rockauto.com/
Do the part number search with AC Delco as manufacturer, ten bucks.
The dealer or maybe a parts store may have it too.

Last edited by Bluevista; Mar 10, 2011 at 11:10 PM.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rjohnson442
General Questions
2
Apr 21, 2015 05:24 PM
The Stickman
General Discussion
5
Aug 19, 2011 04:02 PM
dantana
Chassis/Body/Frame
2
Aug 21, 2009 10:58 AM
RAMBOW
General Discussion
1
Jun 9, 2009 07:33 PM
onetogofast
Small Blocks
2
May 1, 2009 05:06 PM




All times are GMT -7. The time now is 02:10 PM.