Is there a tool that will take the chrome molding off of a 1972 442 as far as the vinyl top goes? What is it called and where can I get one?

 

If it's narrow trim around the base of the vinyl top (rear window and on the QPs) then first look for any studs with speed nuts on them from underneath in the trunk...these would typically hold down any DIE CAST POT METAL CHROME PIECES.

As far as the stainless:

1)Front and rear window glass...there is a specific tool...see this link:

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/KD-2038.html

That tool is ONLY FOR the approx 3/4-1" wide stainless around the wshield and backglass....nothing else.

2)Any narrower stainless trim...typically held on by pushing the trim down over small nylon/plastic "Blocks". These "blocks" slip onto studs that are spot welded to the body.

As such, you need a STIFF scraper (approx 1" or so wide--get them at Lowes, etc). Slip in under one end of the trim and carefully pry upwards...the trim should pop loose from the first clip. Work your way down the piece. AGAIN---first check for any studs/speed nuts from inside the trunk.

Put some tape, etc on top of the paint and UNDER the scraper each time you use it....or...try to go at the trim from the VINYL TOP SIDE so the scraper is on top of the vinyl instead of the paint.

Pics of your trim would really help.

 

Another thing you can do is use an old fashioned bottle opener ( the kind you use to pop the caps off.) I tried this for practice in for future removal. It works pretty well, just go slowly and don't rush it. The harder part is putting the trim back on, especially the curved trim over the quarter windows. I think you can by the little plastic "blocks" when you put the trim back on.

Chumley

 

For putting back on a the palm of your hand, or rubber mallet with a paint stick in between what you are hitting works good for me.

 

70Post has good techniques and advice. There is that point at which you start bending and denting you have to have a feel for. I sometimes use the trim tool and pry the clips open to put the trim back on without a lot of beating, door-ease on the clips can help too.

It helps to have strong fingers and hands, I work them out twisting beer bottle caps off one-handed and then consuming the hard earned fruits of my labor, repetition is best. The "church key" is for trim removal I guess.

Allan

 

Thanks all. I think I'm "armed and dangerous" now. Much appreciated!

 

Take your time, repeat Take your time

The paintt stir sticks also work good for removal of the chrome at the rear of the hood. Jes lay it flat againist the edge of the chrome and start at one end s-l-o-w-ly tapping with a small mallet

 

The only place I am aware you can get a bottle opener on to is the drip rail mouldings over the side glass as you describe. The "plastic blocks" aren't used on drip rail mouldings....only on some body side mouldings and vinyl top mouldings on the QP and trunk lid areas.

Just want to clarify each application and tool.

Don't get aggressive with the bottle opener on the drip rails. In fact, it helps to use TWO of them...a few inches apart so you aren't putting on the force on the drip rail moulding with JUST ONE. Even then, you need to put some tape over the bottle opener. With all that prep work IT IS STILL VERY EASY to put miniscule dings in the drip rail stainless wherever you pry with a bottle opener. You may not see them at first but if you look at them in the right conditions they will be there.

 

The only place I am aware you can get a bottle opener on to is the drip rail mouldings over the side glass as you describe. The "plastic blocks" aren't used on drip rail mouldings....only on some body side mouldings and vinyl top mouldings on the QP and trunk lid areas.

Just want to clarify each application and tool.

Don't get aggressive with the bottle opener on the drip rails. In fact, it helps to use TWO of them...a few inches apart so you aren't putting all the force on the drip rail moulding with JUST ONE BOTTLE OPENER . Even then, you need to put some tape over the bottle opener. With all that prep work IT IS STILL VERY EASY to put miniscule dings in the drip rail stainless wherever you pry with a bottle opener. You may not see them at first but if you look at them in the right conditions they will be there.