I have a 69 cutlass with a 455 and need to change my engine mounts. They both look to be ripped/cracked very badly. At first I thought it was wheel hop but I think the engine is banging off the hood when I get on it. I'm guessing the trans mount needs to be replaced also.
I have a friend that owns a used car lot that specializes in muscle cars, hot rods, and pickups. He says bring it to the shop and we'll change them out. My concern is that he says we'll just put a jack under the harmonic balancer and lift the motor to change them. Is this ok to do? Am I just being paranoid about my precious motor? I do remember changing a Corvette motor mount years ago, with this same friend, in this manner, in his garage (home garage) many years ago. But heck, I know how he is. Everything he owns is for sale and is gone before you know it. I'm sure his wife and kids will be gone when the right price comes around! LOL I know he has lifts, cherry pickers and everything else automotive at his disposal so I was a little surprised at his intended method.
I have another gear head friend that says he would use wood blocks and lift the motor in a way that wouldn't put pressure on the harmonic balancer or pan.
Any thoughts as to the best way to change these? Thanks in advance for your input.

Once again I'm not sure of the best place to post so I'll let the mods move it wherever they think is most appropriate.

 

I wouldn't lift the engine on the harmonic balancer because the outer ring is bonded to the inner and it would damage that bond...use a chunk of 2X4 and lift the engine on the oil pan rail where the bolts are making sure that the wood is straight when the pressure is on... It might be easier if the wheel is off and go in to the block bolts over the control arm from the wheel area instead of over the fender

 

I agree not to lift it there for sure.

There is a jig shown in the service manual to lift the front of the engine to change the pan. It bolts on either side near the balancer and then there is a cross piece and a special jacking screw mechanism that hangs from the frame rails.
Before I decided to pull my engine I was changing the oil pan gasket and I made a similar jig with some heavy angle iron I bolted to the front and another piece going between them, jacked it with a floor jack there. I jammed 2x4's under each side between the block and the crossmember to hold it up securely and to keep if from rocking. I found a couple of sloppy bearings when I dropped the pan so I went and bought a cherry picker to yank the engine.

If the guy has a cherry picker why not just lift the engine up with that to change the motor mounts?
Still need wood blocks to support it or something, with your hands in there you don't want to take any chances no matter how you lift it.

 

Amen to that!

moved thread......

 

I've done a number of motor mounts with simply a block of wood and a floor jack under the oil pan. I was also skeptical of the harmonic balancer as a jacking point until someone pointed out to me that the Chassis Service Manuals from the 1980s show this as an accepted method (at least on the lightweight 307s!). The problem with using the balancer is that jacking there puts you on the centerline and you actually want to tilt the motor to one side, hence using the oil pan - particularly if you jack on one side of the pan.

Your other problem is finding the correct BBO motor mounts for a 1969-1972 car - assuming your BBO used the factory 1969 frame and motor mounts. If the 455 was installed using the 350 mounts then there's no problem. Anchor 2261 is the correct mount in that application.

 

I've done a number of motor mounts with simply a block of wood and a floor jack under the oil pan. I was also skeptical of the harmonic balancer as a jacking point until someone pointed out to me that the Chassis Service Manuals from the 1980s show this as an accepted method (at least on the lightweight 307s!). The problem with using the balancer is that jacking there puts you on the centerline and you actually want to tilt the motor to one side, hence using the oil pan - particularly if you jack on one side of the pan.

Your other problem is finding the correct BBO motor mounts for a 1969-1972 car - assuming your BBO used the factory 1969 frame and motor mounts. Right now they are only available from the Olds specialty vendors. If the 455 was installed using the 350 mounts then there's no problem. Anchor 2261 is the correct mount in that application.

 

I used a floor jack and length of 2x4 and lifted the side I was working on via the square flat pads on the engine block. This pad is the same that the engine vin is stamped into. These are under the #1 and # 2 cylinders.
Position the jack under the boss with the length of board standing straight up and positioning it under the aforementioned flat pads lightly raise the side you are working on remove bolts and continue raising until you can just work the mount out. This technique gives you good leverage left to right.

Now this was done on my 68 400 and nothing was in the way like the power steering pump brackets. Note sure on your 455 if this would be the case.

 

Engine host would be the best route, but using a floor jack and block of wood to support would be a good idea. To change the trans mount do it with the engine bolted in. Use the floor jack and block of wood a 1x6 would work for the trans lift it up to change the mount just be safe.

 

This link http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/Tech/Mounts.html is a good resource for motor mounts/ frame mounts especially when you change to a different engine size. Olds only site!

 

Interesting info here. I was looking at some motor mounts on ebay (Partsplace) and after reading the info on this post asked the seller if the mounts were both parts, the frame bracket and the part that attaches to the engine. The reply was that they are one and the same. Did I ask the question wrong? I want to make sure I have the correct frame part, which I think I do, as the engine(350) sits too low. This would indicate that the rubber mounts are for a big block according to the info on the link contained in the above post. When someone swapped engines years ago, it doesn't seem likely they would have changed the frame brackets. I surmise they just needed a set of mounts and they came across big block mounts and used those for a quick fix. I need to pull myself under the car and do take those measurements I guess. Chumley

 

First, the vendor is an idiot. Second, if you can slip a finger between the bottom of the oil pan and the crossmember, the engine is not too low. I don't know how to kill this "truth decay" but if you were to use the BBO frame mounts with the SBO motor mounts, the oil pan would hit the crossmember. Please see the attached photos.

 

Thanks Joe, pictures help a lot. Chumley

 

Chumley did you look up the link on my reply?

 

Yes, I did. I'm still unclear on this. I have a '72 car with a '73 350. I was informed on this sight that a '73 small block is identical to a '72 small block. The engine appears to sit about 1" too low, as the fan will hit the shroud if it was in place. I crawled under the car this morning, and the number on the mounts is 2261, the same as shown for a '72 350 on the link page on your reply. Are the bosses on the '73 block different? I don't want to throw away $$$ on new mounts until I'm 100% sure they will raise the motor to the correct height. The '73 mounts are apparently different, but I don't know if that has to do with the '73 chassis or the block itself. For now, I'm just leaving the fan shroud off until a '72 motor falls out of the sky(or if I determine which mounts to get) Chumley

 

Or, the fan shroud is not secured correctly and is placed too high. It's a possibility. Or, the transmission mount is somehow too high, would not take too much error to multiply to an inch that far forward.

 

And look who the vendor is... That's their type of boneheaded reply (and perhaps knowledge)...

Come to TX during tornado season and you might get your wish...

About 15 years ago a tornado ripped through one town not too far from here and completely leveled a guy's barn and workshop. He was out in the country on many acres of land. His shop equipment along with a mostly complete 454 chevy engine were never found.

 

All 1968-1976 350 blocks are identical and use the same casting. The 2261 mount is correct for your car if you have the original frame mounts. Once again, the motor mounts are NOT the problem.

 

Why don't you take a picture and show people what you talking about with the fan.

 

As far as I can see, the fan shroud only bolts on in one position. I'm going to look at the tranny mount next. I'm assuming the TH350 is a '73 as well, since it looks like the two were installed as a unit. What are the issues, if any, with a '73 tranny sitting on a '72 crossmember at the correct height and it's affect on the motor's position? Chumley

 

Shouldn't be any issues with the tranny being a 73 or 72 they where exactly the same. I wonder if you have the right fan shroud or fan. That's why I asked for a pic.

 

This thing should bolt in place. WE need a picture or two. I want to make sure since this is a transplant motor, is it a 350 Olds? Small block Pontiac will bolt up to that trans to. This is not "rocket" science or maybe it is since it is an Olds!

 

Right now the shroud is off. It IS the correct one for '72. I actually bought a used one on ebay that is intact, since the one on the car had a section on the bottom cut out so the fan would clear. Yes, the fan is also correct. 19 1/2" 6 blade for A/C car. I don't know what I could take a picture of that would shed any more light on the subject. Is it possible the radiator support is too high? With all the other Mickey Mouse things I have discovered on this car, nothing is beyond suspicion.( Yes, it IS an Olds 350)

 

More than likely you have the wrong fan. The one you have is too big that's why someone had to cut a section out of the shroud. A lot of people use to do that back in the day. I put the new shroud on and see if you have a problem. If you still have a problem take a measurement of the fan. You will need the smaller one than. I think the fans are 19 1/2 and 19 inchs.

 

Somebody said an engine hoist would be best, I agree but not too many people have those lying around.

When I put the mounts in the Delta it was done with a block of wood and a floor jack under the oil pan.

The Alero's is the same way, but what a PIA. The only good thing is the mount is on the side (front actually) of the motor, but I have to jack up the car with the factory jack, just to get the floor jack past the raditor air dam

 

The fan and shroud are correct. I was going to get a smaller fan, but I like things to be correct to a certain degree.( I want to keep the 19.5" clutch fan in case I get the A/C running someday.)I'm sure the problem lies with the tranny mount, engine frame mounts, or one of the crossmembers.(or a combination of all of the above) . At least I don't live in the desert so I can run it without the shroud for the time being. Chumley Thanks for all your suggestions guys.