Pristine 70 442 wanted
Pristine 70 442 wanted
Hello Oldsmobile fans,
I am searching for a 1970 442 in as pristine and original condition as possible. No project or partial restorations. I am open to w-30s
w-30 clones or regular 442 cars with stock hood. Not looking at cutlass based cars. Not looking for a project. It needs to be a holiday coupe with automatic trans with gold buckets and console interior. Although they are attractive I am not in the market for vinyl top cars. As far as paint color goes gallon gold, white and burnished gold are at the top of the list. Not interested in red or black yellow or green or nugget gold.
i am open to blue and aqua and maybe burgundy, but have not seen any with gold interior which is the priority for me. Please reply here or message me on the forum with any
cars that are available for sale that meet this criteria.
I am searching for a 1970 442 in as pristine and original condition as possible. No project or partial restorations. I am open to w-30s
w-30 clones or regular 442 cars with stock hood. Not looking at cutlass based cars. Not looking for a project. It needs to be a holiday coupe with automatic trans with gold buckets and console interior. Although they are attractive I am not in the market for vinyl top cars. As far as paint color goes gallon gold, white and burnished gold are at the top of the list. Not interested in red or black yellow or green or nugget gold.
i am open to blue and aqua and maybe burgundy, but have not seen any with gold interior which is the priority for me. Please reply here or message me on the forum with any
cars that are available for sale that meet this criteria.
Last edited by Mello Gold; Nov 24, 2024 at 12:40 PM.
a good car is a product of good people who took the time and had the brains to do it right. Time is expensive and in short supply. I have a 57 Chevy and I have turned every bolt on that car more than once and I know what’s involved. I leave it to the pros these days and that kind of knowledge is rare. It’s expensive for a reason.
a good car is a product of good people who took the time and had the brains to do it right. Time is expensive and in short supply. I have a 57 Chevy and I have turned every bolt on that car more than once and I know what’s involved. I leave it to the pros these days and that kind of knowledge is rare. It’s expensive for a reason.
I have never been to an auction. I wonder if the best cars go there or do the fees keep some sellers with quality cars away? I would rather do a direct sale, because I am not into the drama or uncertainty, but I will go where the cars are, and you do see them in person at Mecum or BJ.
Also, if you're going to become an auction rat, from my own experience here are three rules: 1) Do your research, 2) Set limits and stick to them -- don’t get swept up in the moment. Remember you're competing against guys there who may have more money than you, and they're drunk! And remember also that the "bidder's assistant" is not your friend -- their sole purpose is to get you to spend more money than you should. When a car exceeds your pre-determined limit (which you established during your research, right?) walk away -- literally, get out of the ring, 3) Get all your money and logistical considerations figured out well before you turn up on auction day. A letter from your financial institution may be necessary to show funds in place or credit approval (although I would never recommend borrowing money to buy a collector car for personal use) and you can find out in advance what transport companies will be on site. Then there's title transfer, insurance and all attendant taxes. This is all stuff that needs to be done on scene, so you should do as much as possible in advance to make it a turnkey experience.
Will post more if I've left anything out, which I surely have -- it's been a few years. Best of luck!
B-J cars are often overpriced, and if that doesn't get you, the outrageous fees will. Not a good place to go bargain-hunting. Mecum is headed that way, if not there already. Smaller auctions like Silver have more reasonably priced dockets and fees, but the quality of the cars often suffers. Maybe try looking at upcoming events from mid-size houses like R-M.
Also, if you're going to become an auction rat, from my own experience here are three rules: 1) Do your research, 2) Set limits and stick to them -- don’t get swept up in the moment. Remember you're competing against guys there who may have more money than you, and they're drunk! And remember also that the "bidder's assistant" is not your friend -- their sole purpose is to get you to spend more money than you should. When a car exceeds your pre-determined limit (which you established during your research, right?) walk away -- literally, get out of the ring, 3) Get all your money and logistical considerations figured out well before you turn up on auction day. A letter from your financial institution may be necessary to show funds in place or credit approval (although I would never recommend borrowing money to buy a collector car for personal use) and you can find out in advance what transport companies will be on site. Then there's title transfer, insurance and all attendant taxes. This is all stuff that needs to be done on scene, so you should do as much as possible in advance to make it a turnkey experience.
Will post more if I've left anything out, which I surely have -- it's been a few years. Best of luck!
Also, if you're going to become an auction rat, from my own experience here are three rules: 1) Do your research, 2) Set limits and stick to them -- don’t get swept up in the moment. Remember you're competing against guys there who may have more money than you, and they're drunk! And remember also that the "bidder's assistant" is not your friend -- their sole purpose is to get you to spend more money than you should. When a car exceeds your pre-determined limit (which you established during your research, right?) walk away -- literally, get out of the ring, 3) Get all your money and logistical considerations figured out well before you turn up on auction day. A letter from your financial institution may be necessary to show funds in place or credit approval (although I would never recommend borrowing money to buy a collector car for personal use) and you can find out in advance what transport companies will be on site. Then there's title transfer, insurance and all attendant taxes. This is all stuff that needs to be done on scene, so you should do as much as possible in advance to make it a turnkey experience.
Will post more if I've left anything out, which I surely have -- it's been a few years. Best of luck!
You purchased your car from an extremely reputable, honest, nationally known, no story, private seller. You don't have to worry about authenticity. You're buying exactly what was represented. No stories! Your seller is an exception, not the rule. There aren't many around like him. Use your new car in good health.
[QUOTE=BangScreech4-4-2;1604247]I hope OP will forgive the brief detour from topic, but really? What did you get? Did you post about it? Inquiring minds want to know![/QUOTE
Be my guest and detour away.
i have a question that is sort of a detour as well. How do 1970 442s ride?
I have never driven an A body. I am intimately familiar with 57 chevys and 69 thunderbirds. Can. Anyone draw a comparison in ride quality/steering? I know tri fives are pre rag joint steering columns so obviously the olds will not have that steering vibration. The thunderbird is a big block two door. They made those at the same factory as the Lincoln and rides really smooth and handles surprisingly good, ofcorse it is heavier than the olds. My 71 mustang 429 rides and drives pretty awful. I have a pretty good idea how the 442 will feel but I would like to hear from owners.
Be my guest and detour away.
i have a question that is sort of a detour as well. How do 1970 442s ride?
I have never driven an A body. I am intimately familiar with 57 chevys and 69 thunderbirds. Can. Anyone draw a comparison in ride quality/steering? I know tri fives are pre rag joint steering columns so obviously the olds will not have that steering vibration. The thunderbird is a big block two door. They made those at the same factory as the Lincoln and rides really smooth and handles surprisingly good, ofcorse it is heavier than the olds. My 71 mustang 429 rides and drives pretty awful. I have a pretty good idea how the 442 will feel but I would like to hear from owners.
This in a 3900 lb. convertible with very few aftermarket upgrades -- mainly just Edelbrock IAS shocks and 235/60/14 BFG T/As
[QUOTE=Mello Gold;1604251]
Find someone local or at a car show who has one and ask if they will take you for a ride and maybe drive it.
I hope OP will forgive the brief detour from topic, but really? What did you get? Did you post about it? Inquiring minds want to know


What is your budget?