Pristine 70 442 wanted

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Old Nov 22, 2024 | 09:39 AM
  #1  
Mello Gold's Avatar
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Pristine 70 442 wanted

Hello Oldsmobile fans,
I am searching for a 1970 442 in as pristine and original condition as possible. No project or partial restorations. I am open to w-30s
w-30 clones or regular 442 cars with stock hood. Not looking at cutlass based cars. Not looking for a project. It needs to be a holiday coupe with automatic trans with gold buckets and console interior. Although they are attractive I am not in the market for vinyl top cars. As far as paint color goes gallon gold, white and burnished gold are at the top of the list. Not interested in red or black yellow or green or nugget gold.
i am open to blue and aqua and maybe burgundy, but have not seen any with gold interior which is the priority for me. Please reply here or message me on the forum with any
cars that are available for sale that meet this criteria.

Last edited by Mello Gold; Nov 24, 2024 at 12:40 PM.
Old Nov 22, 2024 | 01:35 PM
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What is your budget?
Alain
Old Nov 22, 2024 | 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by alain
What is your budget?
Alain
This is the key question. You can get anything you want if you're prepared to spend enough.
Old Nov 22, 2024 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by alain
What is your budget?
Alain
Fair question, you never know how deep you are willing to dig if the right car is available
Within reason. I am aware of the prices some of these car can go for. I am not unrealistic or interested in wasting peoples time.

Old Nov 22, 2024 | 04:09 PM
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So, $100K wouldn't be beyond the pale for the right car?
Old Nov 22, 2024 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by BangScreech4-4-2
So, $100K wouldn't be beyond the pale for the right car?
yes sir. That is not not beyond the pale but I hope it has air conditioning for that price
Old Nov 22, 2024 | 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by BangScreech4-4-2
So, $100K wouldn't be beyond the pale for the right car?
a good car is a product of good people who took the time and had the brains to do it right. Time is expensive and in short supply. I have a 57 Chevy and I have turned every bolt on that car more than once and I know what’s involved. I leave it to the pros these days and that kind of knowledge is rare. It’s expensive for a reason.
Old Nov 22, 2024 | 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by BangScreech4-4-2
So, $100K wouldn't be beyond the pale for the right car?
Originally Posted by Mello Gold
yes sir. That is not not beyond the pale but I hope it has air conditioning for that price
Originally Posted by Mello Gold
a good car is a product of good people who took the time and had the brains to do it right. Time is expensive and in short supply. I have a 57 Chevy and I have turned every bolt on that car more than once and I know what’s involved. I leave it to the pros these days and that kind of knowledge is rare. It’s expensive for a reason.
I think you'll get good results with a wallet that can potentially open that much. I paid less than that for an excellent car recently, private sale, and had an excellent experience.
Old Nov 23, 2024 | 10:57 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by Koda
I think you'll get good results with a wallet that can potentially open that much. I paid less than that for an excellent car recently, private sale, and had an excellent experience.
That’s good to hear . Glad you found what you were looking for. There have been several nice ones for sale just in the last few years but I missed the boat on them. There is nothing I see for sale right now.
I have never been to an auction. I wonder if the best cars go there or do the fees keep some sellers with quality cars away? I would rather do a direct sale, because I am not into the drama or uncertainty, but I will go where the cars are, and you do see them in person at Mecum or BJ.
Old Nov 23, 2024 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Mello Gold
... but I will go where the cars are, and you do see them in person at Mecum or BJ.
B-J cars are often overpriced, and if that doesn't get you, the outrageous fees will. Not a good place to go bargain-hunting. Mecum is headed that way, if not there already. Smaller auctions like Silver have more reasonably priced dockets and fees, but the quality of the cars often suffers. Maybe try looking at upcoming events from mid-size houses like R-M.

Also, if you're going to become an auction rat, from my own experience here are three rules: 1) Do your research, 2) Set limits and stick to them -- don’t get swept up in the moment. Remember you're competing against guys there who may have more money than you, and they're drunk! And remember also that the "bidder's assistant" is not your friend -- their sole purpose is to get you to spend more money than you should. When a car exceeds your pre-determined limit (which you established during your research, right?) walk away -- literally, get out of the ring, 3) Get all your money and logistical considerations figured out well before you turn up on auction day. A letter from your financial institution may be necessary to show funds in place or credit approval (although I would never recommend borrowing money to buy a collector car for personal use) and you can find out in advance what transport companies will be on site. Then there's title transfer, insurance and all attendant taxes. This is all stuff that needs to be done on scene, so you should do as much as possible in advance to make it a turnkey experience.

Will post more if I've left anything out, which I surely have -- it's been a few years. Best of luck!
Old Nov 23, 2024 | 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by BangScreech4-4-2
B-J cars are often overpriced, and if that doesn't get you, the outrageous fees will. Not a good place to go bargain-hunting. Mecum is headed that way, if not there already. Smaller auctions like Silver have more reasonably priced dockets and fees, but the quality of the cars often suffers. Maybe try looking at upcoming events from mid-size houses like R-M.

Also, if you're going to become an auction rat, from my own experience here are three rules: 1) Do your research, 2) Set limits and stick to them -- don’t get swept up in the moment. Remember you're competing against guys there who may have more money than you, and they're drunk! And remember also that the "bidder's assistant" is not your friend -- their sole purpose is to get you to spend more money than you should. When a car exceeds your pre-determined limit (which you established during your research, right?) walk away -- literally, get out of the ring, 3) Get all your money and logistical considerations figured out well before you turn up on auction day. A letter from your financial institution may be necessary to show funds in place or credit approval (although I would never recommend borrowing money to buy a collector car for personal use) and you can find out in advance what transport companies will be on site. Then there's title transfer, insurance and all attendant taxes. This is all stuff that needs to be done on scene, so you should do as much as possible in advance to make it a turnkey experience.

Will post more if I've left anything out, which I surely have -- it's been a few years. Best of luck!
ha ha ha! That’s good stuff and good advice. I don’t think auction are really in my future. But in a last resort I guess maybe. Thank for sharing that tid bit of wisdom!

Old Nov 23, 2024 | 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Koda
I think you'll get good results with a wallet that can potentially open that much. I paid less than that for an excellent car recently, private sale, and had an excellent experience.
Koda,
You purchased your car from an extremely reputable, honest, nationally known, no story, private seller. You don't have to worry about authenticity. You're buying exactly what was represented. No stories! Your seller is an exception, not the rule. There aren't many around like him. Use your new car in good health.
Old Nov 23, 2024 | 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Koda
I paid less than that for an excellent car recently, private sale, and had an excellent experience.
I hope OP will forgive the brief detour from topic, but really? What did you get? Did you post about it? Inquiring minds want to know!
Old Nov 23, 2024 | 06:09 PM
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[QUOTE=BangScreech4-4-2;1604247]I hope OP will forgive the brief detour from topic, but really? What did you get? Did you post about it? Inquiring minds want to know![/QUOTE

Be my guest and detour away.
i have a question that is sort of a detour as well. How do 1970 442s ride?
I have never driven an A body. I am intimately familiar with 57 chevys and 69 thunderbirds. Can. Anyone draw a comparison in ride quality/steering? I know tri fives are pre rag joint steering columns so obviously the olds will not have that steering vibration. The thunderbird is a big block two door. They made those at the same factory as the Lincoln and rides really smooth and handles surprisingly good, ofcorse it is heavier than the olds. My 71 mustang 429 rides and drives pretty awful. I have a pretty good idea how the 442 will feel but I would like to hear from owners.
Old Nov 23, 2024 | 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Mello Gold
I have a question that is sort of a detour as well. How do 1970 442s ride? I have never driven an A body.
Well, no '70, but I have a '69 4-4-2 , which can't be that much different in terms of ride and handling. Very smooth and controlled. More damped and less "junky" than Mopars I've driven and more road feel and less wallowy than Fords. As a bonus, I can take a corner marked for 30 MPH at 50 with very little drama.

This in a 3900 lb. convertible with very few aftermarket upgrades -- mainly just Edelbrock IAS shocks and 235/60/14 BFG T/As
Old Nov 23, 2024 | 09:02 PM
  #16  
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[QUOTE=Mello Gold;1604251]
Originally Posted by BangScreech4-4-2
I hope OP will forgive the brief detour from topic, but really? What did you get? Did you post about it? Inquiring minds want to know![/QUOTE

Be my guest and detour away.
i have a question that is sort of a detour as well. How do 1970 442s ride?
I have never driven an A body. I am intimately familiar with 57 chevys and 69 thunderbirds. Can. Anyone draw a comparison in ride quality/steering? I know tri fives are pre rag joint steering columns so obviously the olds will not have that steering vibration. The thunderbird is a big block two door. They made those at the same factory as the Lincoln and rides really smooth and handles surprisingly good, ofcorse it is heavier than the olds. My 71 mustang 429 rides and drives pretty awful. I have a pretty good idea how the 442 will feel but I would like to hear from owners.
Find someone local or at a car show who has one and ask if they will take you for a ride and maybe drive it.
Old Nov 23, 2024 | 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by BangScreech4-4-2
Well, no '70, but I have a '69 4-4-2 , which can't be that much different in terms of ride and handling. Very smooth and controlled. More damped and less "junky" than Mopars I've driven and more road feel and less wallowy than Fords. As a bonus, I can take a corner marked for 30 MPH at 50 with very little drama.

This in a 3900 lb. convertible with very few aftermarket upgrades -- mainly just Edelbrock IAS shocks and 235/60/14 BFG T/As
That is a great explanation ,
I think the concept of refined muscle
Is the best of both worlds.
i think your keeping the tire diameter at around 26” helps . I plan on running a similar tire wheel combo.

Old Nov 23, 2024 | 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Mello Gold
I think your keeping the tire diameter at around 26” helps . I plan on running a similar tire wheel combo.
There's just one caveat there -- the shorter diameter probably does help with ride and handling a little and maybe even shortens the effective gearing a bit, however, it looks kind of awkward. The wheel/tire combo just doesn't fill the wheelwells enough. As I mentioned in another thread, I'm considering going to a 225/70/14 to get the diameter a little closer to OEM.
Old Nov 23, 2024 | 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by BangScreech4-4-2
There's just one caveat there -- the shorter diameter probably does help with ride and handling a little and maybe even shortens the effective gearing a bit, however, it looks kind of awkward. The wheel/tire combo just doesn't fill the wheelwells enough. As I mentioned in another thread, I'm considering going to a 225/70/14 to get the diameter a little closer to OEM.
yeah I just plugged the 235/60 s in and it is only 25.1”” diameter
I read the original poly glass tires were 26.8”
The 225/70 /14 is the closest to that but just a bit shorter.


Old Nov 29, 2024 | 01:32 PM
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To answer the ride question a 1970 442 with factory A/C rides very well
Alain platinum 4442 4spd factory A/C
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