I'm a bit mystified by this.

Tires, hoses, belts, wiper blades, brake hoses: probably about $1,000 total, because tires ain't cheap.

Shocks: About $120 for four, unless you really go all out for Bilsteins or something, and you're 15 years old, and most first cars last about a month before being wrecked, so I wouldn't.

New rubber body mount bushings: Huh? Nobody changes these unless they're doing a frame-off restoration (since that's the only way to get to them). The bushings themselves aren't expensive, but taking the body off the frame is certainly enough to make you wish you'd bought a unibody. They're always shot. Live with it.

New windshield (installed windshield has a large crack): Call the local chain glass company - about $120 to $150 installed.

New brake booster (master cylinder looks to be good - booster is rusted): Rusted? Where? How? Brake boosters don't rust out. They all get rusty after half a century or so. They also almost all work fine.

Replace front drum brakes with disc brakes: Really? I thought you wanted to drive. Sounds to me like you'd prefer to look up at the bottom of the floor pan than out the windshield.

Alternative is to re-build front drums: Rebuild? How about looking at them. They may be fine. If the cylinders are leaking, then replace them, $10 a side for the rears, no more than $20 for the fronts. The shoes may have plenty of meat on them. If not, then what's a new set - $20-$30 per axle?
If you want to splurge you can buy a couple of spring kits - about $10-$15 an axle last time I looked.

Rebuild rear drums: Ditto.

Rebuild transmission. Alternative would be to replace transmission: Um, why? Is that one blown? Almost any TH350 you find in any junkyard will work fine, so what's the matter with that one?

Replace entire vehicle wiring harness (engine, chassis, etc.): Why? Has it been eaten by wire weevils?

Could use a Painless Wiring harness (either universal or model/year specific)
Alternative would be to use a model correct wiring harness from another manufacturer
All original sockets appear to be in place, so could be re-used (integrated into the new harness): Or could just leave it alone.

Replace tail-light lenses on both driver & passenger side: I have no idea what these cost, but I'd bet a decent used pair could be had for less than $100

Replace front grille pieces (driver & passenger): But he's giving you the new pieces.

Windshield washer pump motor housing was cracked, but wiper motor worked: The washer pump is a $1 junkyard item. $5 if the guy's a *****. Or you can buy any or all of the components new at the auto parts store - the whole assembly is something like $20.

This looks like it is a single combined unit wiper motor + washer fluid pump: Because it is.

Windshield washer fluid tank: Another dime a dozen junkyard item. Or use a soda bottle.

New headliner: What does this have to do with being roadworthy?

Seats could be re-upholstered when you decide you are ready: Which also has nothing to do with being roadworthy. Three words: Big Blue Blanket.

Rear package tray seems OK, but will need to be re-covered: Again, so what?

Radio is missing: This ABSOLUTELY affects roadworthiness. When I was your age, I would always get the stereo working right before I got the engine to run. Priorities.

Speakers: Ditto.

Air conditioning (new unit wired/plumbed into the existing AC ductwork): Looks like it needs a compressor and lines, and probably an evaporator, condenser, receiver, POA, and expansion valve while you're there. Fortunately, this has nothing to do with being roadworthy.

There is a crack in the steering wheel (standard for a car this old when the plastic shrinks around the wire core. This could be repaired/filled with JB Weld and painted to match: JBWeld - $5 a tube. Or just leave it.

I get about $1,520, but let's be liberal and call it $1,600. Still a whole lot less than $6,000. Frankly, I'm not sure which orifice he pulled that number out of.
I'm not saying you should buy that car (or that you shouldn't), but if it's solid and rot-free, then it may be a good candidate, and should be on the road and running with less than two grand and a solid week of work.

- Eric

 

Lots of tire shops (and wrecking yards) also have sets of good used tires available for a lot cheaper than buying new.

Great points there, Eric.

 

I gave your friend a guess of about 2000.00 on the high end to get it on the road.
The transmission has 59, 000 original miles on it, it shifts great manually. I think the modulator valve is just stuck, or needs replaced, not a big deal.
I hope you enjoy the car. Please keep us ipdated on your progress.

 

Maybe back in his day .... snicker

 

Seems like the car is on its way to Pa? Now you can think about joining an Olds club!

http://clubs.hemmings.com/delvaloldsclub/

 

Wow. We were pretty close, and I've never even seen the car.

When I was a kid, my rule of thumb was that any car I bought, even one that seemed "perfect," would require about $200-$300 right off the bat, for tune-up and "rubber" items. It's "several" years later now, so it'd be fair to adjust that for inflation to $500. For any car.

Then add the fact that it needs tires, which are going to come to $300 for a crappy used set (unless you own your own mounting and balancing machines), or $800 to $1,000 for a good set, and you're at $1,500, which is right where I got by adding it all up individually.

Add in a few hundred, more or less, for incidental stuff, and you get the range of $1,600 to $2,000 that we've come up with, but note that this isn't much different than the projected cost to get ANY car that hasn't driven for a while and needs a set of tires on the road.

I'm still mystified by the six grand.

- Eric

 

I posted a picture of it.

- Eric

 

Eric I think you are probably closer then me on this, that is if he is doing all the work. Could be that his friend was thinking that they would have a the work done by a shop.

 

A fifteen year old buying an old car needs to be doing his own work (or doing it with his Dad, uncle, Grandpa, helpful old neighbor down the street - whoever). If he's not, the excess money flying around in the air is likely to lead to severe attitude problems in later life.

- Eric

 

^^^ exactly.

Mitchy's correspondence with the seller tells him several important things about the seller all of which add up to the fact that he shouldn't buy a car from him.

First, this seller doesn't really understand what it means to take someone's deposit. He's willing to take the buyer's earnest money, but he's not being earnest about holding the car for the buyer.

Second, if the seller is willing to screw the first buyer, then he is willing to screw the second buyer. You don't want that person to be you. The only thing that's really different between you and the first buyer is the price. That's all that the seller cares about.

Third, this seller has made it clear to you that his integrity has a cash value of $500. $6000 - $5500 = $500.



Don't feel bad. You may be the victim of Good Fortune. Personally, i would not consider buying a car from someone who is open about being willing to screw the first buyer. After hearing what you told us about him being willing to refund the deposit wtihout holding the car as promised, I wouldn't trust the seller's integrity enough to waste my time going to look at the car.

 

I respectfully disagree with VI Cutty as far as used tires go. I will concede that you can find decent used tires here and there but IMO it is always better to go with new if possible, bubbles, blown belts, leaks, cracking, a bit dangerous. I paid about $600 for 4 new ones including installation, warranty and road hazard but that was also for my 14" SSII's so I got bilked there a little bit. Not many 14" options left. If you can find something for about $100 a copy on sale, that is pretty cheap insurance. And yes I know, they will get burned thru in a matter of weeks, but maybe the sting of having to replace them might teach a valuable lesson...I will admit though it took me a few times to learn that one.

What part is Kevin talking about? If they are B Pillar interior moldings for a 70-72 two things, 1. YES they are hard to find and I have not found anyone who makes them, and 2. I WANT THEM!

Be patient Mitchy, it took me 3-years to find a suitable candidate and the end result of my search is not the norm. It will come to you at the right time and probably from an unlikely source. Maybe you will get lucky and a "little blue haired lady" wants to sell her "big black Oldsmobile" [a reference people of a certain age will get] purchased new in 1970 and has been sitting in a garage for 20-years and is waiting for you.

[as she opens the garage] - 'I don't know really, I mean it is loud, has those vulgar hood scoop things and has a stick shift, but I remember it was really peppy! 440-something, w-something...my husband was a car guy. I just want it gone. So it's an old car, maybe $1000? What's wrong sonny, you are as white as a ghost...'

 

Any chance you might expand your wish list to the 66/67 year models? Remember some of these may be negotiable.

http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/4972345380.html
http://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/4976608629.html
http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/4975078175.html
http://york.craigslist.org/cto/4959004814.html
http://cnj.craigslist.org/cto/4950486521.html
http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/4918353382.html

 

We already bought the 70 Kevin has. Also, my dad has a 67 convertible.

 

Excellent. In that case, you guys can pretty much fix up this car blindfolded.

- Eric

 

Cool, hope it all works out.

 

Congrats on the purchase!

 

Sweet!!!!! Congrats!!!!! You'll have fun fixing her up and that way you know exactly what you have in the end!!!! Like 2 gallons of bondo over some major rot!!!Enjoy!!!
Eric M


PS - oops-sorry Kevin- I meant 4k and 2k to get on the road? had 6k in my head-oops to many u know whats LOL!

 

Hey guys got the car today. Soon there will be a help thread for the car, and I wanted to thank all you guys for all the advice on the past cars we looked at. I will be posting pictures of the car tomorrow.

 

Congrats!

 

Hey guys, I am also 15 and looking for a 69-72 cutlass. I live in MN so there are some slim pickins. If you guys know of anything let me know. My budget is up to 8k and the car would have to be driver quality. I am not SUPER mechanically inclined but if I get a chassis manual I can figure it out. Thats exactly what my second cousin did. He had a 70 cutlass supreme and put in a 4 speed himself at 17 yo. Thanks. Going to add a signature soon. GO OLDS OR GO HOME!!

 

There is a red 71 cutlass S on craigslist in waterloo IA for 7800. North central Iowa but could be worth giving a call.