When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
These are cars I know very little about value wise but one I've noticed the price coming down slowly on and thought could be of interest to others.
It looks pretty nice, it's a stick too. Some interior work needed for sure.
Again I have no idea if 10,600 is high, low, or dead on but always curious of what others think of different Oldsmobiles out there and maybe helping get one into the hands of another Olds lover.
If not appropriate to post because it's not mine feel free to delete this thread.
This is where the VIN is located. The assembly plant is indicated by a single letter, and it's M for Lansing. It's the last character before the last six digits, which are called the "plant sequential number." It won't be the same six digits as are shown on the body plate.
I knew the VIn was at the windshield, but that isn't shown in any pictures. Seller posts "numbers matching", so I was trying to do a little HW on whether this car came with the 455 that is in it now, or not.
This car. In fact, this car's VIN will look very much like the example. It will be 3G37_3MXXXXXX, where the __ will be a letter code for the 455 engine, a U or a V.
so I was trying to do a little HW on whether this car came with the 455 that is in it now, or not.
The VIN will tell you what kind of engine it came with. You'll have to check the VIN derivative stamped on the engine to see if it matches the car's VIN. That's how you determine that the engine in the car is the actual one that was put in at the factory. You can't determine if the engine is original to the car by just looking at VINs and body number plates. You have to look at the engine itself.
Last edited by jaunty75; May 3rd, 2020 at 08:19 AM.
April 4th, 2020, 09:09 AM
