Window Adjustment
#1
Window Adjustment
Is there a resource anywhere on how to adjust door windows on a 71 442? I've looked online at the Fischer manual and cant seem to find anything. My windows are out of line and it makes noise when I'm driving down the road. I adjusted them a little bit but I was wondering if there is a better way.
#2
Should be right there in the Fisher manual - door glass, at least it is in the 72 book.
Most likely the felts on the top guides are all worn out. They can be replaced with self-stick wide velcro from Ace hardware or Elliots or similar.
I have a thread about repairing them somewhere around here.
Most likely the felts on the top guides are all worn out. They can be replaced with self-stick wide velcro from Ace hardware or Elliots or similar.
I have a thread about repairing them somewhere around here.
#3
Ok I found this link and its better.
http://www.tseafoamo.com/Manuals/1971Fish.pdf
I'll have to print it out and read though the material. Seems very confusing. Some of the pictures are bad and blacked out, I assume a hard copy has better pictures. I'll have to invest in one then.
The problem I'm having is the front and back adjustment. its really close on the A pillar and high.
http://www.tseafoamo.com/Manuals/1971Fish.pdf
I'll have to print it out and read though the material. Seems very confusing. Some of the pictures are bad and blacked out, I assume a hard copy has better pictures. I'll have to invest in one then.
The problem I'm having is the front and back adjustment. its really close on the A pillar and high.
#4
The height is adjusted by the two limiter brackets at the top of the door. They are pointed and covered with a plastic coating - they go up into holes in the door metal.
The front to back I believe is adjusted from the support guide in the door, the part here with the 4 nuts on it:
After knowing this, maybe the procedure int he manual will make more sense.
The front to back I believe is adjusted from the support guide in the door, the part here with the 4 nuts on it:
After knowing this, maybe the procedure int he manual will make more sense.
#5
Oh man, the wonderful A-Body windows. On my LeMans, I spent on and off about two months fiddling with the windows to make them fit and seal properly. I went from having a car that leaked and hissed at highway speeds to a car that stays almost dry and is quiet. The factory service manual requires special tools, which are really just pieces of plastic that fit into the weather strip channel. Once in place, you roll up the windows and adjust to make contact. There are several adjustment bolts. Since those adjustment tools (I think they are called "gauge blocks") are long since discontinued, trial and error is the way to go, once you know what bolts to loosen. Rob is correct about the adjustment bolts in the picture. There were AT LEAST 4 to loosen.
Let's say it was an adventure that, in the middle, made me want to roll the car off a cliff. Now that it's done, I've changed my mind.
Let's say it was an adventure that, in the middle, made me want to roll the car off a cliff. Now that it's done, I've changed my mind.
#6
Rob, seriously, you are the man! To strip your door panels and Dyna mat off your door just to take a picture for me , above and beyond brother .
But really, I love that you've done so much work to your car and have documented it to help other people. It's appreciated very much. Thanks again for that picture.
henryk8398 lol, I've felt like that SEVERAL times myself.
But really, I love that you've done so much work to your car and have documented it to help other people. It's appreciated very much. Thanks again for that picture.
henryk8398 lol, I've felt like that SEVERAL times myself.
#7
FWIW, when I replaced the weather stripping in my 71 98 I took the car to a window shop so he could align all of the glass. I tinkered with it a bit with my Fischer manual, but after spending an afternoon on it I knew I wouldn't be able to get it done correctly. Thankfully, the gent at the window shop only charged me about $300. He had one of the kids that works for him disassemble the window lift mechanisms, bead blast everything, and lube it properly. Definitely a place I will use again in the future. I have zero wind noise and rain can't get into the car.
#9
That's a lot of work for $300 bucks. You got a good deal.
I had the same guys remove the rear window when I bought the car so I could fix the rust in the window channel. They stored the window in their shop for me until I fixed the rust. I was driving the car without a rear window for a week or two.
#10
Not a problem - glad it helped out. My goal is to help keep these cars on the road and keep 'em getting restored!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post