These have been allowed to harden on repainted surface and even when removed with thumb nail, a stain remains. How do I remove these spots and stains effectively ?

 

Wash the car entirely. Then use some hand polishing compound if that does not do it you will need to sand the paint with some light grit 2000 maybe even 3000 grit will do it and follow with a high speed buffer. Buffing might also do the trick depends on how badly it etched into the paint.

 

Thanks for quick response, Copper. I'll try it and post results before/after.

 

If you have a local autobody supply store i would recommed the 3m buffing compound this work's good by hand and can be used with a buffer. I would reccomend sanding the finish as a last ditch effort as it's the most aggresive way to fix you paint issue.

 

Well, truth be told, I've never buffed or polished a car so I'm a little nervous about screwing around with the paint. I had a restorer sand/buff my '75 88 last year and I loved the results. I really want to learn but not by ruining a perfectly good paint job.
I put some Maguires rubbing compound on a sponge disk and tried to remove a speck by hand in an inconspicuous spot. I rubbed for a few seconds but it wasn't having an effect so I got nervous and stopped.....which led me to the question tonight.

 

Please say this isn't on your 98? Can't remember if your car still has enamel paint on it or was it upgraded to BC/CC? I know that tree sap is highly corrosive and should be washed off asap. What I'm worried about is whether the sap has 'eaten' into the sub layer of color causing the stain. I'm certainly no authority on polishing, so whatever CC says would probably be the best result. I also would feel nervous about polishing it out with a power polisher. Try using just hand pressure and patience on a test area. Maybe ask a local detailer if they can take out the stains?

You know what? I just remembered something. I had some sap that was on my bumper. I put a big goober of chrome polish on it and just let it sit for about 10 minutes, then polished normally. It came off easy! Maybe try putting some liquid polish on the stain - keep it wet to dissolve the sap and see what happens?

 

there is corser compounds but again most people are timid to fix an issue like this and i dont blame you. I do body work day in and out a good buff job will fix alot but some time sanding is needed if it was buffed already once i would be hesitant too as knowing what the detailer did excatly weather he sanded and buffed or how much how long he buffed can greatly affect the out come. You buff to much you burn through the clear or paint depending on what type paint the car wears. If you want to learn buy the gear and practice on a junkyrad fender. Sometimes the cost of the tools and materials will exceed the cost of having someone buff it .

 

Yeah, that's a fact. Most shops will also tell you if there's any risk of cutting too deep with compound. This sounds like the car is not wearing BC/CC though. If sanding, would you go something like 2000 wet, then polish.

IF a shop wrecks the paint they would be responsible to fix it wouldn't they?

 

No, Allan, the tree sap isn't on the Ninety Eight but on a 74 Caprice I bought last week ( Chevy's are expendable !). It has a beautiful repaint with quite a few sap specks/stains.
I know restorers can do wonders. When I bought my '75 88 it had more than a few what I thought were berrie stains on the paint. Restorer said it was original paint and that paint was breaking down, bleeding and causing the staining. After sanding and buffing ( very carefully) the results were very dramatic. most smaller stains were gone and bigger/deeper stains were greatly reduced. He cautioned that it would have to be continually waxed from that time on to keep up appearance and not allow environment to get at the now thinner original paint.....so, I figure the same could be done here, especially on newer paint. ( pic of 88 just after polish and newly bought Caprice)

 

You might also want to try using a clay bar, along with some Meguiars Last Touch Detail spray. Follow this up with some cleaning compound, then a polishing compound, and finally a high quality wax.

 

The clay bar won't remove sap etch that's imbedded in the paint. Meguiars is good for a nice show detail but to restore paint you really need some 3m compounds. The clay bar can actually harm paint if the paint is older and more fragile it can scratch easily the clay bar traps small particles and those particles can also scratch paint. I avoid the clay bar The only time we use it in the shop is to remove overspray .

 

Try Turtle Wax Bug and Tar remover.

 

I did try the clay bar and specks wouldn't budge. I'll try "Boldsmoble's" suggestion on the Turtlewax bug/tar remover, though gently. Trying to find a cheaper altenative to professional job. I'll post results.

 

Its not harmful. I clean my entire car with it before every wax. Its amazing what it removes. On the race car it removes rubber without much effort.

 

I just don't like clay bars and don t recommend them. I usualyy used 3000 grit trazac paper 3m and it just bearly sands the paint enough to just clean the top off and I buff it. I usually buff my car every summer usually that's what I do.

 

I had a bad tree sap experience with one of my cars.
First I tried tar remover to no avail.
Next I took the car to a detail shop that used claybar and other cleaners , this still did not get the sap off.
Finally I took the car to a restoration shop. They said the sap had "bit in" to the paint. Color sanding and buffing finally got rid of the stuff. My cars insurance policy paid for most of cost to repair the finish.

 

Here's something else you can consider. It actually dissolves tar and road grime without damaging paint. The ol standy: WD40.

 

Agree, start easy with WD40, goo-gone (not goof-off), or the turtle wax cleaner as suggested also. Can always get more aggressive with polishing or even color sanding after that. More options if single stage paint and be very careful if two stage with clear coat.

 

I bought the Turtlewax and tried it on several of the smaller spots on the trunk lid. They did fade a bit but the larger, more prominent spots didn't budge. I think like "1971four4two" experience, the tar has " bit into" the paint. I have appointment at restorer on Tues about another matter and I'll take the car for him to look at. Thanks for the suggestions and advice. I'll let you know what he says and post some pics of sap spots just as FYI.